It was pretty easy except tring to avoid the razor sharp plastic cowl...The most time consuming part was removing the fins on the bottom to make way for the stock lines. Not sure how people are breaking the oil sending unit? Unless they are hooking a chain to the old intake and ripping it out with a truck or something. Took it for a spin, but couldnt get on it because of the rain.

 

howd u remove the fins? a dremel? it would of been a time saver if you would of used a hammer and chisel- piece of cake.

 

I did my LS6 intake last week and broke the oil sending unit. I pulled the intake forward about two inches once all the bolts were up from the intake, and I'm pretty sure that's when I broke mine. Also, my arm is just clearing up from all the cuts that I got from the cowl, boy was that a PITA. My car feels quicker at highway speed(say running from about 60-100mph). The car pulls really nice up top now. Have fun once the rain clears out.

 

I used a pair of pliers, clamped onto them and snapped them off flush.

 

I did mine last week, I just bought the crossover tube +plugs. No problems. I need a tune now though, it likes to idle at 2K when I pull up to a stop sign.

 

nice im waiting to get mine installed, so how much a difference can you tell in it, more power, quicker etc... how about just around town and non highway? i also am putting on a ported and polished TB to help out some.

 

I noticed a difference, chirps second alot harder but I havn't been to the track yet this year to see any difference there. I used a dremel to remove the fins. I couldn't take a chisel and hammer and knock on my brand new intake. I'm with you on the sending unit, I didn't have a single problem lifting up and out.

 

nd4sod22 ur idle shouldnt have changed i think u have a vacume leak

 

+1

 

what are these fins your guys are removing? also what do u do if u want to keep your EGR? and just a thought if gm rated 98 to 02 ls1 cars the same even though 01/02 got the ls6 intake than what makes anyone think there are going to be any gains in just an intake manifoldt??

 

There are fins at the bottom of the intake. In order for these guys to get the LS6 intake to fit properly, they have to get rid of those fins. Those fins will sit against the coolant pipes under the intake if not taken out. Another remedy is replace the LS1 coolant pipes to LS6 style coolant pipe and plugs.

LS6 intake has more space inside than LS1 intake so LS6>LS1 on HP gain.

 

I used a razor to cut into the plastic ribs on by side just enough to cut a line.. then just used a real shape chisel and hammer.. and all of the ribs were off clean.. took a rubber mallet and beat the steam lines down a bit to make them flat against the valley plate and I was done and cruz-in in about 1 hour and a 1/2... but I was not working on one of the PITA 4th Gen F-Body.. my Chevelle has full access all the way around...

I added a p&p Throttle body at the same time.. so.. my performace dyno (seat of the pants) show good gains !... many have to try the 1/4 mile dyno soon.

 

I started throwing a front knock low signal so I bought the LS6 mani to install while throwing the new knock sensors on. Started installing mine last week. I had installed SFCs, LCAs, Adj Panhard, Torque Arm, Trans Mount and wide band in a matter of two days before attempting this install. Needless to say I was very sore and tired when starting. Thats when my easy install tapped deeper into my wallet. I was taking the fuel rail up with the mani still bolted onto the heads and thought the injectors were "just" seated tight,lol. Not the case. My lack of sleep helped me disregard the 4th rail bolt. My dumba$$ pulled up so hard on the rail I warped it. Good excuse to throw on a billet rail and braided line kit . Anyways, didn't break the oil sender, yet. I kept the original steam tubes. Just took some pliers and broke off the tabs then finished it up with a dremel to make it clean. Btw, didn know what the fuss about the rear bolts were, but I went ahead and bought some laundry clips in case. Lemme tell you, GREAT idea!! really helps pull the mani right out. It has got cold out here in Indiana, so I will prob finish the install later this week. My only concerns are not pinching the Knock harness, making sure everything is plugged back in, not breaking the oil sender on re-entry and hoping taking the ribs off the bottom will allow me to keep the tubes and still seal properly once bolted down.

Just take one look at the amount of volume inside an LS6 mani compared to the LS1. Anyone would/should understand why the LS6 offers bigger #s over the LS1 intake. Thats why GM ditched the original.

The LS6 mani can flow enough air to support over 650hp+. I may not ever push that, but its a lil piece of mind for a small investment. Numerous write ups and dyno graphs have supported the claim of atleast a 12rwhp increase over the stock mani. Like I said. If I hit that much of an increase, it would put me at $28 per RWHP gained. Def not a cam like increase, but worth it IMO.

 

you must have an air leak

 

Vacuum leak?

 

Quick Question, I apologize if it has been answered but I have to ask. Will the fuel rail, injectors; sensors etc. transfer over from my LS1 manifold to my not yet purchased naked LS6 manifold? and are there any guides or suggestions on porting it?

 

How do you get the gas out of the rails before you take it off so you dont get it all over the engine bay and stuff?

 

you may also have to fool with the TB. my idle was a little off and i just adjusted the TB cable and idle screw and i was in business.

 

X2 This helps alot its a must do!

 

LOL my install is going on 3 days, because i broke my origional oil pressure sending unit, and then i broke a brand new one. So now im waiting another day for the parts store to get my OPSU and i now have the correct socket to tighten it **(do not use pliers, grips etc. to try and tighten the unit, i'm a lazy idiot and didn't want to go back to the store and get the socket, so i paid the price lol)**. my arms are still bleeding by the way lol