TSP 1 7/8 header install....
#41
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Any non catted y-pipe setup is gonna do that, it's not the headers, my car did it with stock manifolds, off road y-pipe and cutout, even when the cutout was closed and going through stock exhaust. That's why I went to true duals with an xpipe as soon as I got headers when I was still a bolt on car, now the car is pretty much a race car, I just run a bullet muffler right off the collector of each header dumped.
#43
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well i do have an iron 6.0, and its a fully built, forged motor. and i did have flp longtubes with a non catted slp y-pipe before and it wasnt bad at all, it just got very bad with the new setup.
#46
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Get it at a muffler shop, probably under 100 installed, does NOT restrict flow they are straight through design. You can also try the flowmaster 2x3" inlet by 4" outlet which will help your exhaust flow too, then you can put a 4" to 3" reducer to meet up with the catback.
Most common resonator is a "glass pack"
but here is a write up from wikipedia
Resonators, also known as Helmholtz resonators are sections of exhaust pipe that expand to a larger diameter and allow the sound waves to reflect off the walls and cancel out. Resonators are mostly used to reduce raspiness and popping. Resonators are similar to an Expansion chamber, only for 4 stroke engines. They do not produce much back pressure.
Many North-American cars (and possibly cars in other parts of the world) made since the early to mid 1990's can have up to 3 distinct (but similar looking) exhaust components downstream from the catalytic converter(s). Each of these components may be called resonators or mufflers. Usually only the last component is the actual muffler, and the other components are the resonators.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 08-06-2008 at 09:47 AM.
#49
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in your case I think I would try the flowmaster merge, sounds like you have a pretty healthy setup, Patrick G is the one that stated that the merge helps the soundwaves flow together to keep rasp down, he put one on his T/A, the merge collecter has two 3" inlets and one 4" outlet, then like I said you could get a 4" to 3" reducer to go back to your 3" piping, I am considering doing this myself.
#50
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Ok I looked into it a bit this seems like maybe a better setup than the 3"-4" this is 3"-3.5", this will also increase your exhaust scavenging/flow ( I have no data just seems logical to me and has been stated in some reading I have done )
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
then here is a resonator ( cost a little more than I thought, but muffler shop probably has cheaper ones )
Problem with the resonator is length, this one for example is 18" long
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
then here is a resonator ( cost a little more than I thought, but muffler shop probably has cheaper ones )
Problem with the resonator is length, this one for example is 18" long
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
#51
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any of you guys running into problems with your plug wires touching your pipes? I have about three wires that are just touching the headers. Any way of fixing it before I have to buy to wires?
#53
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hey Jon did you guys have any trouble with your duals with these headers mating up with each other at the collector? My driver side is only on the collector probably about two inches
#54
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I've owned QTP headers and Jet Hot headers and both slid in w/o moving the engine.
The pluses are that they are 1 7/8, coated, $480, with 3/8 flanges.
Overall I would rate these a 7.5/10. The JetHots seem to be a better made and coated header, but they requires a little clearabce on the kmember. The QTPs were way nicer than both, but also cost 250 more per set.
Just some info for you all