Hey everyone. I have done a search for about 30 minutes but I haven't came up with anything good yet. I'm trying to figure out whether the headers (Hooker Super Comp LT's) go in from the top or from the bottom. I've only worked on the driver side and the stock manifold was kind of a pain to get out from the bottom. But these LT's are three times the size of those and I have no idea how to get them where they need to be. The coil packs are off but the valve covers are on the heads. The steering shaft I really don't want to mess with if possible. And this is all being done with jack stands on the ground. Thanks!

 

They go in from the bottom. I had to remove my steering knuckle too. Things to also note I had to grind the drivers side K member for clearance. Check out the sticky above in this forum there is a TON of helpful info in it.

 

agreed. I have the same headers and they go in from the bottom. I did one thing different. Instead of removing the steering knuckle, I cut the big casting tab off the engine block which a lot of people do. Slid right in no problem. Also, make sure the spark plugs are out...

 

from the bottom bro,when i installed my hooker LTs i only raised the car about 2 feet

 

alright. sounds like a plan...
how hard is it to install those spark plugs once the headers are there?

 

so basically all you done was cut the tab off and remove the spark plugs and it was good to position?

 

I thought nothing could be worse than installing SLP LTs on my car, then i helped a friend install Hooker LTs on his WS6. The passenger side went in with no problem, and the drivers side was the biggest mission. We eventually just unbolted the motor mount and lifted the engine a bit to get the header up there.
-Joel

 

Jack that thing like 11 feet in the air and you should have enough room. Works a lot better with a lift if you have access to one.

 

I took everything from the y-pipe to the rear of the car off. Then I loosened the exhaust manifold bolts, and then pulled the plugs. If you leave them in when pulling the manifolds, or installing the headers, you run the risk of cracking them. Then, I pulled the manifolds out and made sure the surfaces were clean and I used new gm metal gaskets (most people like them, but there are other brands out there. Throw the Hooker ones away, they are garbage). Make sure you neversieze the bolts before you put them in. Factory ones work great, but I since changed them out for stainless steel. I remember that I removed the oil dipstick tube also. I cut that casting tab off the block. Not flush though, just enough to slip past it w/out scratching the header coating. One of the primaries was hitting the k-member so it wouldn't sit flush, so I had to grind some away. Make sure you cover the open spark plug holes when grinding. On the passenger side, one primary was right up against my heater box and needed another 1/8" to go before it would mount flush to the head. So I made sure that I marked exactly where the header was hitting, took it to the bench and covered the spot w/ a rag, and used a big hammer (use the ball side for a smooth dent) and just hit it lightly to put a small indentation so it would clear the box. Test fit it a few times to make sure it would fit, and it was golden. On the passenger side, I also removed the 2 rear coil packs so I could fit my hand easier. Plugs aren't hard to do after the headers are in. Everything went smoothly from there. orageapeel is dead right in his statement. If you have access to a lift, get it. It save a lot of agrivation. And you won't be able to resist the urge to start you car w/ open headers, trust me, lol

 

I think thats the one reason everybody wants to finish, just so they can start her up open headers. I know i did, its impossible to resist!
-Joel

 

Yep... gotta start it with open headers.

A little trick that helps with these installs... take a small piece of plywood or something, put it on top of a jack... and jack up the motor just a little bit on whatever side you're working on. Just don't give it more than a pump or two. The engine will move up just a little bit while it's still in its mounts. Sometimes that little bit is all you need to slide the header in. This trick has saved my *** countless times.

 

Another member said this before i tried it but..

I realized I was gonna have to move my steering knuckle, and the bottom bolt was pissing me off..

Put my foot on the header from the bottom, person pulling up top, and BAM it slid right in Saved like an hour worth of work.

 

I didnt pull the steering shaft to install mine. Installing was the easy part. Getting all the stock stuff off was the pain. Mine are the 1 3/4. I dont know if the 1 7/8 are any different.

 

the stock suff was horrible to get off, that was my biggest set back, and i ripped the end of a bolt off lol

 

Great tip. I forgot that I did that. It's been a while. Since I was on a lift at work, I used a bottle jack. This tip is a lifesaver. I just regret not doing the motor mounts when I had everything removed

 

exact same thing i did, make sure it is high enough in the air

 

Ya, like everyone said, you gotta get that car WAAAAY up for the Drivers side header. I had to remove the steering linkage, but didnt have to notch the K. Spark plug wise, the drivers side is much easier to get in and out than the passenger side. If you have big hands you pretty much have to miracle #8 in and out. Personally, once the manifolds were off, I put got the headers up and in, and barley held to the head and installed the plugs. Then tightened everything up. The wires are no biggie.

BTW PB Blaster is your friend!!!!!!!

 

why is it a suggestion that someone should change motor mounts why they are installing LT's? do they get in the way and the header hits against it under torque? how much does a decent set cost?

 

steering knuckle is held in place by two bolts. simple. top and bottom should be grooved so they cannot go back on wrong.

 

Because weather you are upgrading to poly mounts, or replacing your factory ones, everything is out of the way already, and it is really easy to swap them out...