Is it possible to coat stainless headers?
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: South Carolina
Is it possible to coat stainless headers? I've read about the ceramic coated headers and stainless headers. I like the temp reduction that comes with the coated headers, but would rather have the long life of the stainless. Is it possible to have stainless headers ceramic coated? If so, is it worth it? Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2005
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I've got SS ceramic coated and I've got to say that it runs MUCH cooler than SS alone. Side by side, a friend with SS non coated and my car with coated both of us popped our hoods after a cruise on a hot day. The heat coming out of that engine bay was significantly more than what was coming out of mine.
Things I like about SS + Ceramic:
Even on hot days, you can still get to the plugs within 30 mins of shutting down. Unfortunately, although the primaries seem cool enough not to cause 3rd degree burns, the heads and header bolts still will. I've managed to climb underneath the car within 20 mins of shutting down after breaking my torque arm on track. I actually grabbed the collector and didn't burn myself. Imagine the time it takes to pull the jack from the trunk and raise the car and that's how much time I let it cool. The cat was still HOT though and actually did burn my hand a bit on that.
If you don't mind spending the $$$, it's worth it in my opinion. My friend who had stainless only eventually got his ceramic coated as well when he dropped in a 427 into the car.
Things I like about SS + Ceramic:
Even on hot days, you can still get to the plugs within 30 mins of shutting down. Unfortunately, although the primaries seem cool enough not to cause 3rd degree burns, the heads and header bolts still will. I've managed to climb underneath the car within 20 mins of shutting down after breaking my torque arm on track. I actually grabbed the collector and didn't burn myself. Imagine the time it takes to pull the jack from the trunk and raise the car and that's how much time I let it cool. The cat was still HOT though and actually did burn my hand a bit on that.
If you don't mind spending the $$$, it's worth it in my opinion. My friend who had stainless only eventually got his ceramic coated as well when he dropped in a 427 into the car.
I've got Jett Hott coated Kooks stainless headers.
I did it because the CTS-V is very narrow, and there isn't a lot of room on the sides. The headers also run close to brake, fuel, clutch lines, and a bunch of wiring. I did it for the added peice of mind.
I worked a deal with a sponsor to have the Jett Hott coating done for free.
I've had them in for about 25k miles, and probably 1000 minutes ***** out on a road course.
Thus far I have burnt one plug wire. No other issues. Car is a daily driver as well.
-Chris
I did it because the CTS-V is very narrow, and there isn't a lot of room on the sides. The headers also run close to brake, fuel, clutch lines, and a bunch of wiring. I did it for the added peice of mind.
I worked a deal with a sponsor to have the Jett Hott coating done for free.
I've had them in for about 25k miles, and probably 1000 minutes ***** out on a road course.
Thus far I have burnt one plug wire. No other issues. Car is a daily driver as well.
-Chris
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Before you jump on the bandwagon that is passing by, you need to know what you are getting yourself into. Coated headers (such as pacesetters, or Hookers) will eventually rust and wear off their coating. I have Hooker ceramic coated headers that are 5 years old and are starting to corrode something fierce. I have felt engine temps underneath both cars with ceramic coated headers, and stainless, and personally I can't tell a difference (even if someone is claiming a big difference). Both get hot, but the big difference is a handfull of years down the road, that ceramic coating you had put on the headers will be worthless. I have heard some guys taking off the headers and having them "re-coated" which I believe jethot will do only once, but even then, it will come off again, and I can only imagine the PITA of taking off headers, and shipping them out to be re-coated only to install them again when you could have gotten stainless headers that would last forever.
If temp is your biggest concern, you should get some heat wrap to wrap the headers in. This will cool the headers and your under the hood temps much greater than any coating could do. The heat tape style wrap is inexpensive and can be found almost anywhere. I think you would be better off going with a header that won't corrode and then wrapping it to keep the heat down, vs going with a header thats coating will wear off in a few years, and not have that much of a difference (if any) heat wise.
If temp is your biggest concern, you should get some heat wrap to wrap the headers in. This will cool the headers and your under the hood temps much greater than any coating could do. The heat tape style wrap is inexpensive and can be found almost anywhere. I think you would be better off going with a header that won't corrode and then wrapping it to keep the heat down, vs going with a header thats coating will wear off in a few years, and not have that much of a difference (if any) heat wise.
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Before you jump on the bandwagon that is passing by, you need to know what you are getting yourself into. Coated headers (such as pacesetters, or Hookers) will eventually rust and wear off their coating. I have Hooker ceramic coated headers that are 5 years old and are starting to corrode something fierce. I have felt engine temps underneath both cars with ceramic coated headers, and stainless, and personally I can't tell a difference (even if someone is claiming a big difference). Both get hot, but the big difference is a handfull of years down the road, that ceramic coating you had put on the headers will be worthless. I have heard some guys taking off the headers and having them "re-coated" which I believe jethot will do only once, but even then, it will come off again, and I can only imagine the PITA of taking off headers, and shipping them out to be re-coated only to install them again when you could have gotten stainless headers that would last forever.
If temp is your biggest concern, you should get some heat wrap to wrap the headers in. This will cool the headers and your under the hood temps much greater than any coating could do. The heat tape style wrap is inexpensive and can be found almost anywhere. I think you would be better off going with a header that won't corrode and then wrapping it to keep the heat down, vs going with a header thats coating will wear off in a few years, and not have that much of a difference (if any) heat wise.
If temp is your biggest concern, you should get some heat wrap to wrap the headers in. This will cool the headers and your under the hood temps much greater than any coating could do. The heat tape style wrap is inexpensive and can be found almost anywhere. I think you would be better off going with a header that won't corrode and then wrapping it to keep the heat down, vs going with a header thats coating will wear off in a few years, and not have that much of a difference (if any) heat wise.
He is asking about coating stainless headers which means no rust
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2005
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Jet Hot is the best way to go, either Kooks, AR, or QTP (if they can get their quality issues sorted out).
I'll tell you one thing though I have an infrared thermostat that I use for PC/electronic temp readings. SS alone after being run at temp then shut down will NOT read and will say out of range, it's been awhile since I've tested mine but I did get a reading within range of the thermometer, heck I think I even got a reading when it was running unless I aimed at a header bolt or the head. Experience says I can touch my primaries within 20 mins of shutting down, let's see you touch a SS bare primary within that time.
I'll tell you one thing though I have an infrared thermostat that I use for PC/electronic temp readings. SS alone after being run at temp then shut down will NOT read and will say out of range, it's been awhile since I've tested mine but I did get a reading within range of the thermometer, heck I think I even got a reading when it was running unless I aimed at a header bolt or the head. Experience says I can touch my primaries within 20 mins of shutting down, let's see you touch a SS bare primary within that time.
Yea i want Stainless too. But i have seen two different types of stainless used for headers. The ones I am looking into are 321 stainless. I am debating to heat wrap them or spend the extra money and get them coated. But I still havent seen a price here for coating?!
