cascadesys

When I swapped my stock paper filter for the esteemed K&N filter, I got knocking above 4.5K rpm under WOT, I've heard people say this is a result of the oil lubricant in the K&N filters. When I removed the K&N filter and put a brand new paper filter in, the knocking went away. Any way to run the K&N without getting oil in my combustion cycle and getting detonation?

DRGnFLYZ28

Might have oil on the MAF wires. Get the CRC MAF cleaner and see if that helps any.

SSNISTR

iTrader: (10)

Yup, clean the MAF with MAF cleaner and do not use oil on the K&N, just use the cleaner.

cascadesys

I never oiled the K&N, I used it as it came.... pre-oiled.

TheSilverOne

iTrader: (22)

good chance they, k&n, over oiled it

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

I never have had a problem with my filter.

FLSSLS1

I have never had that problem with a K&N and MAF's in all the years I've used K&N's and I oil them fairly well and I do not wait for 50,000 miles either.

Bird

iTrader: (25)

If you were tuned with a restrictive paper filter and then switch to a less restrictive K&N, you could be seeing more airflow for given throttle positions, etc causing a lean-out of the mixture. The tune and all the dynamics involved from the other sensors and airflow calculations 'should' compensate, but I've seen otherwise. Given the fact the switching back to the paper filter stops the knocking, I'd have to say that it's not oil on the MAF causing it, but it still never hurts to clean it properly.

Bird

cascadesys

Just assaulted the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. Doing a bunch of maintenance on the WS6 right now, it's sitting up on jackstands right now. Have new Baer Eradispeed rotors, Hawk Pads, new calipers, and stainless steel lines going on all four corners. Changed fuel filter, did TB coolant bypass mod. Adding a lid, porting the TB, cleaned the MAF, and adding the K&N filter back on. Should be nice and fresh when she's back on the road.