My car has been running kinda shitty lately, throwing goofy lean codes and such so I finally got around to checking my MAP sensor. Sure enough it is loose and sucking in crud from the valve cover breather I have back there. So I figured if I have to take the manifold off to clean it and fix the MAP I might as well port the sumbitch too. First of all, now I know now why it is so expensive. There is alot of stuff in there to touch on if you are going to do it right (IMO). I see most guys just take out the step near the head mating surface, but there is much more you could do, and more than even I was willing to grind on. Anyway, once I popped the top shell off I noticed there is a casting ridge right after the bellmouth entry of the runner and the sides of the runner have a rough surface like the exterior finish and a small casting line almost the length of the runner. Top shell before "porting", really I just used a Dremel and some long sanding rolls for everything.




I have to finish the top shell tomorrow but this is what it looks like with most of that stuff taken off.



Now on to the middle/bottom shells. I kept these together because it looked like the intake was taken apart already and put back together using RTV. I destroyed the top seal taking the top portion off and it is a PITA to get out that RTV so I didn't want to do that again if I didn't have to. The bell mouth of the runner has a nice casting line all the way around.




There is also a good size "hump" right there as well.


I took off the casting line first, it is all around the circumference of the port entry.


Then I blended the hump into the entry..


There was also a small imperfection where the bottom shell meets the middle just under the hump towards the outside wall of the intake. If you look hard you can see that I blended that area as well. I moved on to the head port entry and the infamous "step".




So I sanded that dowm and blended the circumference of the port where the bottom and middle shells meet just before the head port. I didn't port where the intake meets the head at all since I am running stock LS6 heads right now.




Then I sanded the whole runner from bell mouth to head entrance.



This took me 6 hours to do. I starting rushing a little and caught myself, went in the house, logged onto Youtube, and listened to Conway Twitty sing "Slow Hand"... lol. After that I took it easy. I still need to finish up the top shell and go over everything with some emery cloth. I don't know if this is how it is supposed to go but WTF, it was free..minus the dremel and misc/ stuff. I could of used my air tool but I feel like that would have burned right through the intake even with the sanding rolls. Anyway, I know I'm a bit long winded but maybe this will help someone. I'd like to do back to back dyno but I changed my headers so I can't. If there is someone local to Baltimore, I would be willing to meet you at a dyno to swap your FAST90 for my ported one just to see the gains.

Larry

Edit: I could defintely see that you could run (fabricate) an aftermarket fuel rail setup and space it upwards using the normal intake bolts for mounting. If you did that you could epoxy/JB Weld/Splash Zone the crossover intrusuons and fuel rail mounting intrusions in the intake runners for even more gains. I can't figure how some places say they increase plenum volume though. I might take a look at the TB mouting flange tomorrow as well.

 

Thumbs up for doing your own porting.

 

good job on the porting...

make sure and not screw up that overpriced intake!

 

Makes you feel all warm inside doin it yourself. Looks good!

 

Thanks guys, I mainly wanted to put this out there for other people thinking about doing it. It seems like it would be very hard to screw this up if you only use sanding rolls and a variable speed dremel. Just keep it slow and work lightly. I have to give props out to these guys who came before me, these threads helped a ton in getting me motivated and semi-knowledgable,

dragonz28
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/461568-ported-painted-fast-90-pics.html

and
SSwt00SS
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=fast+porting

Although looking at SSwt00SS Mamo ported intake, it *looks* like only the port exit step at the head has been removed. All the casting marks are still on the top shell and the "humps" in the bell mouth entry on the bottom/middle shell are untouched. Maybe they don't make a difference in overall flow but I took them out anyway. I think I might sand the exterior and paint it while I have it off the car as well.

Larry

 

Very nice!

 

AWESOME man! Thank you for the info, great write up, I saved it in my favorites. I'm gonna give this a try one day.

 

Nice work, would like to see some comparison numbers.

 

That's some very nice work. Thanks for taking the time to take pictures.

 

 

hmm sounds good

 

no pics are listed,,,

 

this is kinda what i was talking abuot in that other FAST 90 thread about minimal gains or w/e... cant wait to get home from work to check out the pics!

 

Sorry guys, I messed up with my Photobucket. I'll make it up to you with these extry pics

Lil work around the TB to eliminate some overlap of the flange.


Some clearance on the rear bolt hole ribs for a map sensor bolt down/spacer


Pic of the finished spacer


I don't plan on cracking this open again so I sealed it with RTV instead of waiting for a new gasket.


After it was bolted together some of the ports, not all, had a mismatch on one or both side of the port between the upper and lower shells


I took care of these with a long extension and sanding rolls


I also did some "sooper secret" **** but here is the final product along with new fuel rails, stainless hardware, and paint.


I hope I can be forgiven for my photo faux pas.

Larry

I also want to thank redtail2426 for posting this up as well, it was a great help.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ight=fast+port

 

Looks great man nice work!

 

Looks good. I've been working on mine for the past week and a half every now and then. I'll post up some pics too. Not sure if it's going to pick up much but I figured I would give it a try anyways.

 

Thanx for the pic fix.

 

That's exactly how I felt. It took me a good two weeks to do everything, probably 12+ man hours total of actual porting/sanding. I also went over everything with emory cloth to make sure I had a very smooth surface. Post up those pics when your done. Thanks guys,

Larry

 

Thanks so much for fixing the pictures. Awesome work on the porting. It's hard to believe that a $900 intake would have the ridges and steps that this thing has. You would think all it would need is a little port matching and it's good to go.