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How much torque to rotate bottom end?

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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 09:00 PM
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Default How much torque to rotate bottom end?

Hey guys,

I'm rebuilding my first LS1 (2000) and have a question. With the crank only installed and torque / angled correctly, the thing will spin very easily by hand.

Now though, I've got all pistons in, and caps torque / angled correctly, but it's hard as crap to turn the crank now. Actually, it takes 78 ft. lbs. to do it. The cam / valve train is not in yet, so I'm only trying to turn the rotating assy. I have not built a V8 in years, but this seems tight to me.

Can any anlighten me maybe? My father-laws '91 5.0 (Ford) was much easier to turn than this thing is, and it was a full motor.

BTW, lots of 30 weight oil is everywhere it should be.

Oh yeah, stock crank and (new) stock bearings are used here.

Thoughts please....
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 09:15 PM
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this dont sound right, my complete 6.0 with valvtrain installed turns easier then that.

i can turn it by the flex plate, its tough, but dont think its 78ftlbs. (plugs out of course)
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 09:16 PM
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Do you have the plugs in or no?
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Lt1Porsche
Do you have the plugs in or no?
Block only. No heads even.

When I had the rod caps to 15 ft. lbs., it was ok, but add 60 degrees of angle and nope.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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wow, i would check your clearances. sounds way tight to me.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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Did you use any plastigauge on the journals to see what the clerances were?

Also you will get aot of drag because the cylinders are rough and the rings have not seated.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 11:29 PM
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I couldn't easily find plasti-gauge that met the specs. Also, We're talking about a stock crank, polished at a shop and bearings they supplied. Since I couldn't get the plasti-gauge, I figured with the polished crank and parts they supplied, it'd work fine.

From memory of past builds, I think it's too tight basically. I just don't have any history with the LSX as far as rebuilding goes. The cyls. have been honed and ring gaps are good. Lots of 30 weight is present like I mentioned before. I don't feel good continuing at this point w/o a closer look.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 11:39 PM
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A fresh motor with fresh bearings ususally isnt too easy to turn but that seems a bit excessive. Good time to check clearences, good old plastigauge.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 12:05 AM
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make sur u havent installed the rod opposit side. coz i face this problem be4.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Engine_HP
make sur u havent installed the rod opposit side. coz i face this problem be4.
What do you mean there?

Like #1 in the #2 hole and #2 in the #1 hole?

Or pistons facing backwards instead of forwards?

Or caps backwards?

I'm pretty sure I got all that stuff correct.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 07:16 AM
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Are they new rods? Did you measure the big end of the rod before putting it together. It definitely sounds like there is a clearance problem.

Heck, I can get a small block 350 with the heads and spark plugs to turn over with less torque than that while installing the crank bolt.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:16 AM
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Re-using stock rods. Only new bearings. This isn't a rebuild for big power, just to freshen up everything.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 11:08 PM
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I'm assuming you oiled or used assembly lube on the mains prior to instal?
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by LIL SS
I'm assuming you oiled or used assembly lube on the mains prior to instal?
Yeah, 30 weight everywhere.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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look for a backward cap. You did mark them, right?
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by toneloc60
look for a backward cap. You did mark them, right?
I'll double check this evening. I layed them out in order and am pretty sure I got them back in that order.
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