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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 09:21 PM
  #21  
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I agree with most of that. there are many other people running the same setup as me with stock cooling systems and they don't have this problem



It was just a little above 80 today and I ran 225 My fans are set to come on at 175



When it gets to be in the 90's and up around 100 i'm in trouble. I don't think that even with the ac on my car should run that hot when it is in the low 80's outside
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bluehawk2
I agree with most of that. there are many other people running the same setup as me with stock cooling systems and they don't have this problem



It was just a little above 80 today and I ran 225 My fans are set to come on at 175



When it gets to be in the 90's and up around 100 i'm in trouble. I don't think that even with the ac on my car should run that hot when it is in the low 80's outside
Wierd man. I have a built 427 stroker with a complete factory stock cooling system. I can aggressively drive around in 95* south Florida heat for 30 minutes WITH the A/C "ON" and never have a cooling problem. It is very hard for my temp gauge to get above the 215 mark. I have a 160 t-stat with the fans coming on at 160 "I think." And when I cruise on the highway the temps will always go way down, literally down to the the 155 mark on my temp gauge. So you're problem is an air flow issue.

I wouldn't do anything to the stock cooling system like the sealing of the radiator to the shroud with foam. Leave it how the factory made it.

I hope you don't JUST have 100% water in there, thats just bad.

Also, maybe you should remove that extra fan, maybe its actually hurting the airflow. Where is it located???? Not inbetween the rad and condensor is it?
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 04:44 AM
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A bad head gasket can create a problem like what you have, where it will run hotter in town than it does on the highway. Just a thought... Bob
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 09:16 PM
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I'm running about a 40% mix of coolant and water wetter. Bob, I may have to put the head gaskets on. I didn't think that that could be the prob since it is cooling so well on the highway, but that is the only thing that I havn't tried.


On the bright side, I did get the boost prob fixed
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 02:40 AM
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I was having the same problem,
stock 01 SS. M-6 procharged, twin intercooled

While running the procharger single fan + fan shroud my car with 160 stat ,it would heat up past 200 during slow driving , -40mph. Over 40 it cooled right off 180 ish.

I installed a SLP-LT1radiator, it helped cool the car off faster over 40mph , but didnt help much under 40mph.

Ok then finally i went for the SD-concepts F-body fan shroud, made for Procharged LS1's . With 2 fans and stock wire hook up , low and high fan speed settings back.
Problem fixed!
with a Vette Doctors tune and #1 fan comming on at around 170 #2 Fan at 180 ish.
and off at 35 mph, i never had a cooling problem again, works perfect,
On longisland temps are never over 100degs but we do see 90 + days in the summer and humid too.

I think because the way the SD-concepts fan shrould wraps around the Radiator and seals it tight , more air can be sucked through, also giving me back Two performance spal fans, i think one is 14" and the other is about 10" + wired stock with low and high speed fan settings,
This is what you want
try it!
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 12:15 PM
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Thing is I have the extra 9" spal mounted on my procharger shroud I thought that was supposed to be enough
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Oh yeah I went through all the trouble to change the head gaskets and the car doesn't do any better. Used head studs this time, still no luck.




Any Body have any good ideas now?????



maybe this is just an airflow prob
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 12:47 PM
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My car stays around 180 all the time in traffic, until I turn the AC on. Then it will creep up to 220 on a hot day. But these aluminum engines are designed to run hotter than the old engines of yesterday. That is why they come with 195 degree thermostats in them. It is all about efficient and complete combustion. I would not worry unless it gets close to 240, but please use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water. Plain water does not cool enough on the street.

Last edited by Deeavi; Oct 14, 2008 at 01:47 PM.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 02:00 PM
  #29  
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bluehawk2, have you thought about a EWP or even an Evans or Edelbrock pump. They both flow more than a stocker. I'm gonna look at those when mine goes.

My Howe radiator and 160* t-stat made a big difference.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 03:47 PM
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Yeah I got the evans pump about the same time that i got the ron davis radiator.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 05:48 PM
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Something is wrong then
with all those cooling mods your car should be running cool, check to see when your fans are comming on
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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Yeah I've checked all of the normal causes.

It sounds like an airflow prob, but there are a bunch of people running a procharger in hot humid weather with out probs.


I am starting to think there is something wrong in the engine
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 08:04 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Deeavi
but please use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water. Plain water does not cool enough on the street.
Plain water cools more than a 50/50 mix. Increasing the concentration of antifreeze in the coolant will raise its boiling temperature and lower its freezing point. Even so, the maximum concentration of antifreeze should usually be limited to 65% to 70% because too much antifreeze and not enough water reduces the coolant’s ability to carry heat - which increases the risk of overheating in hot weather.
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/coo...or_service.htm

Id say that plain water can transfer more heat than a 50/50 mix

Last edited by Mart00SS; Oct 14, 2008 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 08:14 PM
  #34  
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that's what I had always heard
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 08:21 PM
  #35  
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Your not serious are you, back to basic auto shop for you.

Straight water boils at 212*F

50/50 water and anti-freeze boils at 235*F

Both of these are at atmospheric pressure.

Now put your radiator cap on that is rated for 18psi and now the boiling point is raised even further since the compressed liquid will have a higher boiling point that non pressurize.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 69LT1Bird
Your not serious are you, back to basic auto shop for you.

Straight water boils at 212*F

50/50 water and anti-freeze boils at 235*F

Both of these are at atmospheric pressure.

Now put your radiator cap on that is rated for 18psi and now the boiling point is raised even further since the compressed liquid will have a higher boiling point that non pressurize.
If you are using straight water and your temp gets to approx 235 you run the risk of it boing before a 50/50 mix will,This I agree. What I am talking about is heat transfer properties of the liquid. Straight water with a PROPERLY WORKING COOLING system will transfer more heat than a 50/50 mix and wouldnt allow the temps to get to that range. therefore I would say that it "cools" better than a 50/50 mix. I still use a 30/60 mix in my car for the corrosion inhibiting qualities.
Thanks for high school chem lesson on how to raise the boiling point of a liquid.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 08:57 PM
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This is from Peaks web site for your reference, just because you think you don't need coolant doesn't mean it shouldn't be used, maybe on a stock engine you can get by but start making horsepower and the heat goes up.
I am not trying to start a fight here but when someone is having a problem its better to start at the basics first to make sure the system is to specs first.

A. Why is it important to mix antifreeze with water?
Antifreeze contains chemicals that protect your engine against rust and corrosion, as well as freeze-up and boil over protection. Water is required to activate the chemicals in the inhibitor package. Furthermore, adding water to antifreeze actually increases the freeze-up and boil over protection provided. For example, a mix of 40% antifreeze and 60% water provides freeze-up protection down to -10°F and boil over protection up to 259°F. In comparison, a mix of 70% antifreeze and 30% water provides freeze-up protection down to -62°F and boil over protection up to 270°F. However, we do not recommend adding more than 70% antifreeze. This would limit the corrosion and freeze up protection and heat transfer capabilities of the antifreeze.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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Man I feel for ya. I know it sucks to drive around and worry bout stuff. Been there!! Only thing I can think of now is blocked cooling passages somewhere. You may have covered this earlier but what kind of heads you running??
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 69LT1Bird
This is from Peaks web site for your reference, just because you think you don't need coolant doesn't mean it shouldn't be used, maybe on a stock engine you can get by but start making horsepower and the heat goes up.
I am not trying to start a fight here but when someone is having a problem its better to start at the basics first to make sure the system is to specs first.

A. Why is it important to mix antifreeze with water?
Antifreeze contains chemicals that protect your engine against rust and corrosion, as well as freeze-up and boil over protection. Water is required to activate the chemicals in the inhibitor package. Furthermore, adding water to antifreeze actually increases the freeze-up and boil over protection provided. For example, a mix of 40% antifreeze and 60% water provides freeze-up protection down to -10°F and boil over protection up to 259°F. In comparison, a mix of 70% antifreeze and 30% water provides freeze-up protection down to -62°F and boil over protection up to 270°F. However, we do not recommend adding more than 70% antifreeze. This would limit the corrosion and freeze up protection and heat transfer capabilities of the antifreeze.

I understand what you are getting at, I wouldnt recommend using straight water, as I stated above that I use a mix of some antifreeze and water to prevent corrosion. Yea I'm not trying to aruge, Just debating heat transfer capabilites of water and coolant and different mixutres of both. Didnt mean to stray off topic OP.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 11:42 AM
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LOL Either way I'm running a 30-40% mix of coolant, but the little simple stuff like that isn't my prob.


I am looking at a problem probably in the motor since I've replaced everything else.



I am running ported 243 castings from patriot.................maybe a prob with the casting could be.


I didn't take a good look at them when I had them off last week. I really wish I had though.


I used 6.0 head gaskets those will work on my lil 346 won't they




give me some suggestions no matter how odd they seem. I've got something going on for sure.


Yesterday 80 degrees i rode throught town with the ac on. temp got up to 224

I got it on the highway and rode at 70-75 for at least 20 minutes the lowest it would go is 187


I figured it should have cooled down more that that on the highway with all of the stuff I have done.


I think I have a prob in the motor and it is working the cooling system harder so that it can handle it on the highway but not at lower speeds
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