I have a Ws6 what are the best First Mods

 

My first mods were :Mti lid,K&N filter.Then I did a Borla catback,and a BBk throttle body.It just goes on and on and never seems to stop.
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2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods

 

first start with ur headers & Y-pipe, Borla catback, lid, filter, on and on..................

 

LID, K&N air filter, 160 thermostat, Ported Throttle body & ported MAFand smooth bellows = relatively cheap and easy to do and worth some hp/tq without going inside the engine..or cutting up your hands..* stupid machined aluminum*...

THEN....Long tube ceramic coated headers, * dont get the SLP's IMO as they sit too damn low under the car..check out the 1 7/8" headers KooKs i think? but there are lots to choose from *slp/PaceSetters/edelbrock/kooks/ARH/cat -back * IF you have emissions* otherwise run an ORY

LS6 intake if you dont already have one as they give good gains over stock LS1 intake and are a lot cheaper then FAST anything..

NGK TR555 plugs
MSD igniton wires--Keep your stockers for back up..
power slot rotors * or equivelant- i run baer eradispeeds *
Hawk Brake pads
Sub Frame connectors--* i run BMR weld in*
Drive Shaft loop--BMR/ SPOHN
Lower Control Arms--BMR/SPOHN
TORQUE ARM--BMR/SPOHN
Strutt Tower brace--* your choice of manufacturer*- SLP/Spohn/BMR/ etc...

** IF YOU ARE AN M6 CAR**
PRO 5.0 shifter * if M6*
Skip shift eliminators
Z06 slave cylinder
CLUTCH/Flywheel-again check sponsors for a package deal * i run a Ram VDS combo*
Mickey Thompson Drag radials * if you wanna hook worth a damn*--they work best for ME..

** IF YOU ARE AUTO**
Stall Converter ..about 3800 RPM stall...* Yank seems to be popular*
Re program of your shift points....

REAR GEARS- if you are running a ten bolt and an M6 car..get a 9" 12 bolt/ sd 60 ASAP..that 7.5" ring gear is a huge let down..once you start to hook that ten bolt is going to explode..i know been through 3 of em...

CAM- lotta threads on this out there...best bet is to contact a sponsor here that does cam stuff for a living and ask your questions, often times they have a sale or will cut you a deal being that they are a sponsor here...when you do a cam swap * we all wil eventually* dont be swayed by the * big name* know what you are going to do with the car and get a cam that will help get you where you want to be...

hardened pushrods * comp/crane is fine*
Ported LS6 oil pump * better oil flow is always a good thing*
* new timing chain..just to be on the safe side of things...
Lifters- comp/crane
Rockers- yellow terra or harland sharp * size depends on your build*-check sponsors
Injectors- depends on your build -check sponsors
Fuel pump -either racetronix kit or walboro 255 ...they seem to be the most reliable..personally racetronix gets my vote...

SUSPENSION--get rid fo that 4x4 look...unless there are an assload of speed bumps around you..the best set up seems to be the KONI/STRANO shocks, springs set up which i will be switching to asap..

thats just off the top of my head right now...but whatever you do...if you go with a cam swap you WILL NEEED TO GET THE CAR DYNO TUNED....dont bother with a diablo sport IMO cause once you get one and do a cam- * get professionally tuned-check sponsors* the hand held is about worthless other than checking codes and changing tire/gear sizes..not worth $500+ IMO..

and if you do a search * google*-GASP!!* for EVILS1 that guy has done a **** ton of mods...VERY worth checking out!!

 

100 shot.

 

on a side note..if the stuff you are replacing is low miles often times you can sell your stock heads, catalytic converters, exhaust system, rotors, shifter etc...and recover some of your money....some times sponsors will cut you an even better deal if you send them back your stock stuff as a core charge kinda thing..just some info i hope helps you out..i learned the hard way--the expensive way $$$$..you dont have to do the same..

 

i forgot..get the bronze headlight gears asap..freakin annoying when they go out..

 

If I could do it all over again I would get shocks first.

 

tell us something about your car. m6/a4, miles, budget, goals, street/track car, DD, etc.

until you say any of that, ill answer with the obvious...since you have the LS6 IM you can stay with that or if you got cash, the FAST 92 with a NW 92TB is great. tsp just posted the results of their engine dyno testing, 1 7/8 headers works great, catback or true duals, lid, free mods, gears and a stall if you are auto.

IMHO, the ABSOLUTE best first mod is a new rear end. after that you can go power crazy and not be worried about breaking the shitty 10 bolt. a 9" or 12 bolt is ~$2,000 (idk the price for the dana 60). everyone wants power, but no one seems to want reliablity and peace of mind. you are sitting on a ticking time bomb (the 10 bolt).

 

^ your still a noob too so dont be a dick

I say do basic bolt ons,
long tubes
ory
catback
lid & K&N
port you throttle body or send it out to be ported, usually around $50 or so
underdrive pulley
nitto drag radial, dont be scared of the rain they arent bad at all if you dont act supid and you can still get some decent miles out of em
and then you need to decide if you are happy with it or not
If you want more
stall if you are an a4, clutch if you are a m6
if m6 it might be time to pony up and get a 9" rear, pricey but you will need it
full suspension: torque arm, lca's, relocation brackets, panhard bar, shocks, etc.
then you have to decide what direction you want to go motor wise: stroker, heads cam, turbo, blower, combination of some

hope this helps

 

depends how close to stock you want to stay.... for the basics, if i could do it all over again then i would start with some kind of Lid & ported TB, exhaust depends on what you want out of the car: for all out n/a go w/ LT's and a nice catback. If A4 then definately a stall with a tranny cooler. Those should be your first few mods and you'll have a fast, reliable car. Next, all you'll need is traction.

 

sorry, im having a bad day. i was still outta line
SORRY TO THE OP TOO!
i just do a whole lot of reading and dont realize other people havent done the same. i lurked for like a year before i joined so ive been around for a while. i dont judge newbs by post count though. i go by knowledge.
sorry again.

i edited my original post so it dont sound so dick-ish.


can you give us a few more details about your car, please?

 

The "Mod Guide: Induction and Exhaust" sticky at the top of this section is a very good read:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/520845-mod-guide-induction-exhaust-please-read-before-posting.html

 

My car is M6 . 47,000 miles my budget is 5,000 my goal is a head and Cam swap . i want atleast 400 HP thanks four the help guys

 

once you hit that magic 400 hp mark goood bye 10 bolt...i have broke 3 of them w/ less power than what you want..

 

Get
*Lid and filter 130-140
*Ported TB 55 through Spartan/Damian ( here on LS1tech )
*LS6 intake from a Z06 or 01-02 F body 0-300( 0$ if you have a 01-02 f body )
*Heads of your choice 1300+ stage 2 5.3L truck heads most common
*Cam 380 I would go with something similar to a MS3 for your goals ( MS4 you have to flycut the pistons, as in make valve reliefs )
*Hardened push rods 100
*Roller Rockers or Harland sharp modified stock rockers 275-900 ( I prefer the regular Harland sharp's, mine were 125 used I think 400 new )
*Head bolts ?
*Headers 400-1300
*Cat back exhaust or true duals 0-600ish

that there will put you about 430 for 3500$ or so.

Oops missed a couple things like fuel setup, get the racetronix fuel pump and hotwire kit and around 42lb injectors. 550-600 ( I just killed your budget in a hurry lol )

Then the tune 300-500( I just killed your budget in a hurry lol )



Then a clutch, sticky tires, lower control arms, panhard rod etc etc etc...,


Ram clutches seem to be the best for the money that I have installed so far, there is another 700$ or so, thats with flywheel. Then with sticky tires or hell maybe even without you are gonna break the rearend so you will have to baby it out of the hole or forget launching period

 

Do the "free mods" and get a cutout.... you will notice a nice improvemnet when you hit the go fast pedal. you won't spend more than 60 bucks

 

i can get my hands on a Ford 8.8 3.73 do u think that will handle it

 

Well I know of a built 8.8 in a F body now that stands up to 440 RWHP launching at 6400 RPM and pulling the front wheels if that helps you, but remember no matter which rear end you buy, by the time you get it built, narrowed and finished it will still cost you out the ***, if that 8.8 is already set up for a f body and its a good price then go for it, its much stronger than the stock f body 7.5 toothpick.

 

I did a SLP Lid, K&N and free mods.