Would a 1/8" gap between my TB stop and linkage effect performance that much?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 1,158
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Would a 1/8" gap between my TB stop and linkage effect performance that much? I haven't really been too happy with the performance of my car since I did heads/cam/LTs/TDs - I went from a 12.70@112 with a catback, my FAST intake, a lid, and 3.90 gears to a 12.44@116 with the addition of ported heads, TR224 cam, Hooker LT's and TSP True dual exhaust. I should have gained more than 4 mph with all of those things. Well, I checked some things out yesterday and found that when my gas pedal is floored, there was a 1/8"-1/4" gap between the stop on the linkage and the stop on the TB itself. Is that enough to cause a significant loss of power? I readjusted it so it's correct now, but it's been like that for a long time now, apparently.
i've had the same problem with my car.
i first noticed it after i had the cam installed. it was run like that on the dyno.
i often wondered how much that affected the (somewhat) low dyno numbers i got (382/375).
the way i see it, is if a ported TB can yield 5-10hp....the restriction that the throttle blade causes when opened 10-15* less could be significant.
i first noticed it after i had the cam installed. it was run like that on the dyno.
i often wondered how much that affected the (somewhat) low dyno numbers i got (382/375).
the way i see it, is if a ported TB can yield 5-10hp....the restriction that the throttle blade causes when opened 10-15* less could be significant.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 1,158
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
It made a pretty big change in my car. My best previously was 12.44@115.93 with a 1.85 60' time. Last night I ran and it went 12.43@116.59 with a 1.97 60' time and 12.47@117.15 with a 2.06 60' time. The lack of WOT was definitely killing power by at least 10 HP.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 1,158
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Yeah, it's only got a mail order tune, so it's not optimal. The closest place to get a dyno tune is 200 miles away, so it's going to cost me a minimum of $650 to have it done, with fuel costs, etc. I'm swapping heads this winter, so I figured it would be best to wait until spring to have it done. If it would hook off the line and I could get a 1.6 60' time, it'd probably run 11's. I'm in the 12.40's with 2.0 60's. Still on a weak 10 bolt though and a stock clutch, so I'd rather not blow it up.
11 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 868
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From: Charleston, SC
i hate to say it but until you get a dyno tune your car wont run to its full potential so your best bet is to spend that 650! the mail order tunes will hold you over until you can get it on the dyno. You wouldnt beleive the difference goin from untuned/mail order tune to a dyno tune. i think you could hit 11s with a dyno tune but i could be wrong
by the way what tires are u runnin? how hard are you launching it off the line?
by the way what tires are u runnin? how hard are you launching it off the line?
i think he knows that.....he said he was swapping heads in a few months...
so why spend $650 twice??
i'd really like to see what mine is making after fixing the glitches from the cam install.
although i've done more since then so who knows what did what
so why spend $650 twice??
i'd really like to see what mine is making after fixing the glitches from the cam install.
although i've done more since then so who knows what did what
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 1,158
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
I'm running nittos and launching around 3200 RPM. It's as safe as I can be with the stock clutch and rearend. I know the tune isn't the best now, but the car is going to be going up for the winter in a month or two and will be modded during that time. Dropping a lot of cash to drive the car for a month or so isn't really a good idea, you know? Once I get a rearend and a clutch in this thing along with some M/Ts, it'll be in the 11's easy.
