Poly Motor Mounts
Re: Poly Motor Mounts I installed the drivers side. I dont know if I like it or not cause my car is still on jack stands getting headers. I hope they stop the movements of the engine some or my headers are sure to bang.
P.S. you will need a drill press to drill the rivits out. A hand drill didnt cut it for me.
Will keep you posted.
Hugh
P.S. you will need a drill press to drill the rivits out. A hand drill didnt cut it for me.
Will keep you posted.
Hugh
Re: Poly Motor Mounts I put the Energy Suspensions one for a small block into my clamshell on the drivers side only. It definitely helped keep the motor from shaking so much and keeps my Y pipe from banging. No additional vibration either, although it does squeak slightly when its cold....I should have put some grease in there. $20=worth it.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Bloomington, IN
Re: Poly Motor Mounts I bought them and they are on, just waiiting for headers to go in so I can put the motor in. I used an air hammer at my shop and those rivets came right out. 
I should have my car done soon, so I will also post what they feel like.
I should have my car done soon, so I will also post what they feel like. 
Re: Poly Motor Mounts I dont have a photo but I used this guide.
Someone here wrote is.
Whoever you are take credit for this thing and thanks for writing it.
Well, I just got done installing the driver's side mount and thought I would provide some feedback for others doing the same thing. For reference I have a 2000 SS with Grott 1-3/4" LT's, stock K-member, and stock steering rack. This was the Prothane LS1 poly mount p/n 7-512-BL (black) I got from Thunder Racing.
Removal order went like this:
1) Disconnect battery
2) Raise front of vehicle on jack stands
3) Remove serpentine belt
4) Remove alternator (3 bolts, 2x15mm and 1x13mm)
5) Remove engine mount heat shield mounted to motor mount-to-block attach bracket (2 bolts, 10mm)
6) Place jack under oilpan to support engine while motor mount is out
7) Loosen the motor mount through bolt
8) Jack up engine slightly to relieve load on the through bolt.
9) Remove through bolt.
10) Loosen and remove bolts holding "pedestal" bracket onto K-member (4 bolts, 15mm)
11) Loosen and remove bolts holding motor mount to engine block (4 bolts, 13mm)
12) Slide engine mount "clamshell" out.
13) Drill out 2 rivets and 3 press rivets from clamshell and remove the stock rubber insert. As slick98ta mentioned, the rubber insert is bonded to the metal so you have to work at it some. The Prothane instructions say to use a torch to heat the rubber for removal, but I just pried it loose. Make sure you clean up the excess rubber crap that gets left behind. I just used an X-acto knife.
14) Insert the poly mount in the clamshell. The Prothane setup has you install 4 3/8" bolts (included with the mounts) where the rivets used to be to bolt the clamshell back together. Torque those to 30 ft-lb (per instructions).
15) Installation is the reverse order.
Torque specs (from my 2000 Helms Manual) are as follows:
- "pedestal" bracket-to-K-member bolts - 43 ft-lb
- engine mount bracket-to-block bolts - 37 ft-lb
- engine mount through bolt - 70 ft-lb
- engine mount through bolt nut - 59 ft-lb
- engine mount heat shield nuts - 89 in-lbs
- forward alternator mount bolts - 37 ft-lbs
- rear alternator mount bolts - 18 ft-lbs
* Note that I didn't have to remove the Grott header or the steering linkage (although doing so would have made it much easier I think).
** Also the Prothane mount fit perfectly - no washers needed. Just make sure you get the 7-512 part number.
Anyway, I took the car for a test drive and the Y-pipe banging is notably improved. I still get a "tap" on a hard shift with the Ram 910 clutch, but no more banging on clutch chatter, etc., like before. Since I'm running cats too I have almost zero clearance on my Y-pipe. If you have 1/2" clearance or so I imagine this would eliminate any banging. Car idles smoother now too. I feel some more vibration through the chassis, but overall car feels smoother (this is with hotcam idle) and shifter hardly moves now.
Overall I would say a very nice improvement. Figure about 3-4 hours if you take your time. Hope this helps.
Now I'm going to work hard at reducing my supply of Bud Light
EDIT: Updated to add passenger side info
I've been very happy with the driver's side only Prothane mount, but decided I wanted to install the passenger side also. I just got finished doing that this evening and I wanted to update this post. The process for the passenger side is basically the same as the driver's side except that the A/C compressor needs to be removed first. This goes as follows (assuming vehicle is already on jackstands):
1) Remove A/C belt from below.
2) Remove 4 bolts (15mm) attaching A/C compressor to mounting bracket. The top two you'll have to get from above and the bottom two bolts from below. Once the compressor is loose just push it forward as far as you can - the swaybar makes a good resting place. Make sure you unplug the electrical connector to get some additional clearance.
3) Remove 4 bolts (15mm) attaching A/C bracket to engine block. You can get all of these bolts from below once the compressor is out of the way.
At this point you have the necessary access to the motor mount brackets. Just remove and install as noted above for the driver's side. The service manual tells you to remove the starter as well, but I didn't have to do that. Maybe this is necessary with the stock exhaust manifolds or if the motor mount through-bolt is installed from the rear for some reason.
Installation is reverse order.
Torque specs (from my 2000 Helms Manual) are as follows:
- "pedestal" bracket-to-K-member bolts - 43 ft-lb
- engine mount bracket-to-block bolts - 37 ft-lb
- engine mount through bolt - 70 ft-lb
- engine mount through bolt nut - 59 ft-lb
- A/C compressor bracket-to-block bolts - 37ft-lbs
- A/C compressor-to-bracket bolts - 37 ft-lbs
Someone here wrote is.
Whoever you are take credit for this thing and thanks for writing it.
Well, I just got done installing the driver's side mount and thought I would provide some feedback for others doing the same thing. For reference I have a 2000 SS with Grott 1-3/4" LT's, stock K-member, and stock steering rack. This was the Prothane LS1 poly mount p/n 7-512-BL (black) I got from Thunder Racing.
Removal order went like this:
1) Disconnect battery
2) Raise front of vehicle on jack stands
3) Remove serpentine belt
4) Remove alternator (3 bolts, 2x15mm and 1x13mm)
5) Remove engine mount heat shield mounted to motor mount-to-block attach bracket (2 bolts, 10mm)
6) Place jack under oilpan to support engine while motor mount is out
7) Loosen the motor mount through bolt
8) Jack up engine slightly to relieve load on the through bolt.
9) Remove through bolt.
10) Loosen and remove bolts holding "pedestal" bracket onto K-member (4 bolts, 15mm)
11) Loosen and remove bolts holding motor mount to engine block (4 bolts, 13mm)
12) Slide engine mount "clamshell" out.
13) Drill out 2 rivets and 3 press rivets from clamshell and remove the stock rubber insert. As slick98ta mentioned, the rubber insert is bonded to the metal so you have to work at it some. The Prothane instructions say to use a torch to heat the rubber for removal, but I just pried it loose. Make sure you clean up the excess rubber crap that gets left behind. I just used an X-acto knife.
14) Insert the poly mount in the clamshell. The Prothane setup has you install 4 3/8" bolts (included with the mounts) where the rivets used to be to bolt the clamshell back together. Torque those to 30 ft-lb (per instructions).
15) Installation is the reverse order.
Torque specs (from my 2000 Helms Manual) are as follows:
- "pedestal" bracket-to-K-member bolts - 43 ft-lb
- engine mount bracket-to-block bolts - 37 ft-lb
- engine mount through bolt - 70 ft-lb
- engine mount through bolt nut - 59 ft-lb
- engine mount heat shield nuts - 89 in-lbs
- forward alternator mount bolts - 37 ft-lbs
- rear alternator mount bolts - 18 ft-lbs
* Note that I didn't have to remove the Grott header or the steering linkage (although doing so would have made it much easier I think).
** Also the Prothane mount fit perfectly - no washers needed. Just make sure you get the 7-512 part number.
Anyway, I took the car for a test drive and the Y-pipe banging is notably improved. I still get a "tap" on a hard shift with the Ram 910 clutch, but no more banging on clutch chatter, etc., like before. Since I'm running cats too I have almost zero clearance on my Y-pipe. If you have 1/2" clearance or so I imagine this would eliminate any banging. Car idles smoother now too. I feel some more vibration through the chassis, but overall car feels smoother (this is with hotcam idle) and shifter hardly moves now.
Overall I would say a very nice improvement. Figure about 3-4 hours if you take your time. Hope this helps.
Now I'm going to work hard at reducing my supply of Bud Light
EDIT: Updated to add passenger side info
I've been very happy with the driver's side only Prothane mount, but decided I wanted to install the passenger side also. I just got finished doing that this evening and I wanted to update this post. The process for the passenger side is basically the same as the driver's side except that the A/C compressor needs to be removed first. This goes as follows (assuming vehicle is already on jackstands):
1) Remove A/C belt from below.
2) Remove 4 bolts (15mm) attaching A/C compressor to mounting bracket. The top two you'll have to get from above and the bottom two bolts from below. Once the compressor is loose just push it forward as far as you can - the swaybar makes a good resting place. Make sure you unplug the electrical connector to get some additional clearance.
3) Remove 4 bolts (15mm) attaching A/C bracket to engine block. You can get all of these bolts from below once the compressor is out of the way.
At this point you have the necessary access to the motor mount brackets. Just remove and install as noted above for the driver's side. The service manual tells you to remove the starter as well, but I didn't have to do that. Maybe this is necessary with the stock exhaust manifolds or if the motor mount through-bolt is installed from the rear for some reason.
Installation is reverse order.
Torque specs (from my 2000 Helms Manual) are as follows:
- "pedestal" bracket-to-K-member bolts - 43 ft-lb
- engine mount bracket-to-block bolts - 37 ft-lb
- engine mount through bolt - 70 ft-lb
- engine mount through bolt nut - 59 ft-lb
- A/C compressor bracket-to-block bolts - 37ft-lbs
- A/C compressor-to-bracket bolts - 37 ft-lbs
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TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 791
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, Ok
all i had when i changed my mouts was basic hand tools (ratchets, extensions, screwdrivers, etc.) plus you will need some universal swivily (sp?) things for the sockets to reach some of the bolts. i had to use a 1/4" one to get it to fit and it took quiet a bit of force to get some of the bolts in the block to break free. all in all it isn't to hard, just very time consuming for what it is. good luck 
I also installed a Prothane on my drivers side do to getting false KR from my hooker y hitting the floor. Engine does not move at idle now like it used to and my banging problem is gone. Can't tell a difference in NVH while driving..
I just installed the Prothanes a few weeks back. PITA!! And that`s with the heads off the car! Needed help to pry on the motor to line up the bolts. I have not drove or even started the car yet so can`t help ya there.
If you're an amateur like me, it will take you at least a full day. It literally took me a day and a half just to do one side. The main part was just extreme frustration. I had to pry the alternator out with a crowbar. Then I broke a small wire on the back of the alternator (it's attached with a weatherpack connector - watch out for it). Then I couldn't figure out how to get a good angle on the motor mount pedestel bolts. In fact, I never did. I found it easier to leave the pedestel attached to the k-member. Just undo the 4 bolts that hold the motor mount to the block, and wiggle the mount out. Saves work.
That heatshield was a huge pita too, it was literally an hour to take it out and 2 to put it back.
It would be much easier to do this when you do a header swap. My FLPs were right in the way of a lot of things. Even if you're not even sure you want them, just get them. Heh.
I noticed zero vibration increase. In fact, I would say there was less. Don't ask me why, but it's the truth.
Dope
That heatshield was a huge pita too, it was literally an hour to take it out and 2 to put it back.
It would be much easier to do this when you do a header swap. My FLPs were right in the way of a lot of things. Even if you're not even sure you want them, just get them. Heh.
I noticed zero vibration increase. In fact, I would say there was less. Don't ask me why, but it's the truth.
Dope
STF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,486
Likes: 0
From: Greensboro, North Carolina
It took me 10 hours and about 9 busted knuckles. I only installed the drivers side and it made a definate difference. My header was hitting my k-member and I ground it twice. After the motor mount it never touched it again. I would recommend the motor mounts but I will NEVER do one again. I will pay someone to do it.
