98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

i think alot of this is just a peice of mine that hey, I did YT RR's so the engine must be quieter... but really its just your mind making you think it is. Ive heard lots of people putting these on and the valve train noise is still LOUD.. thats why im not spending the money on them!

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

I know that this sounds like a totally f^&*ing annoying idea, but put the stock rockers back on and see if it gets quiet again.

If it does, Im sure there are loads of ppl looking for YTs in the Parts Classified. I doubt you'd lose more than 50$. It was work obviously and it may be 50$ + some shipping down the drain, but hey... my car has cost me thousands in ways that havent added a thing. Its part of the game.

Better than taking heads on and off 4 times trying to figure WTF is so loud. I did that.

Good luck.... just sounds like your valvetrain wasnt meant for YTs.

chris

BLUEBYU

iTrader: (1)

Werd.

99 TA

iTrader: (1)

I can deal with the noise I just want to make sure I'm not messing anything up or have already done that. Sounds like it's only the passenger side too so you got me. I will probably try stock rockers again to see if the noise is still there. If so I guess something isn’t right.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure your pushrod length is correct?

A friend of mine accidentally put 7.4" pushrods in his heads/cam car. It sounded like a dang sewing machine. Took us a while to figure out what happened. He put 7.35" pushrods in there, picked up compression (car runs better), and the valvetrain quieted down a lot.

How much are your heads milled?

It's a possibility...

Andrew

dlandsvZ28

So if the heads are milled .030", does that mean the pushrod should be shorter or longer to compensate for the different length between lifter and rocker.

If so, what should be the appropriate length of the pushrod to compensate for the .030" milled from the head?

Tin Indian

Milling heads require a shorter pushrod.

If you mill the heads .030"
then the rods should be .030" shorter

dlandsvZ28

I hacked an answer to my question from another forum. This is what I found posted by Constrictor99.

"There is no way to 100% without a certainty of a doubt predict what your piston to valve clearance will be, however, based on past experience, a cam such as yours SHOULD be fine with a .030" mill, but nothing more.

As for your question about pushrod length, most aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle than the stock cam. If the base circle is more than .025" smaller, than you actually want LONGER pushrods if you have unmilled heads. As soon as you start milling your heads with an aftermarket cam, that brings you back down to the stock length.

So, to answer your question, with your cam, if you were to get your heads milled .020" - .030", then you definitely want stock 7.400" pushrods.

Here is a guide:
1. Stock cam + unmilled heads = 7.400" pushrods
2. Stock cam + > .025" milled heads = 7.350" pushrods
3. Aftermarket cam + unmilled heads = 7.450" pushrods
4. Aftermarket cam + > .025" milled heads = 7.400" pushrods"

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

If the heads are milled 0.030" and you have an aftermarket cam, 98% of the time they have 0.030" smaller base circle so the pushrod length should be 7.400", stock length.

dlandsvZ28

So if my stage II heads are milled .030" like my builder said and if the package returned to me with all of my stock pushrods in a Comp Cams pushrod package states 7.35 should I be asking the rebuilder why I have 7.35 length pushrods instead of 7.4s?

If my high school math is correct, that's .050" difference.

The cam is a custom Comp Cam 224/228 114 lsa.

Might this be why my lifters are noisy even with Yella Terras?

Does this mean the valves aren't opening to their maximum either if the pushrod length isn't correct?

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

If the base circle is .030 smaller than stock then that equates to .015 less on the pushrod. Were talking radius here.

I thought that the stock rods were 7.38, and aftermarket were 7.4. That is why with my stock heads and TR230 I went with the 7.4" pushrod.

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

99ta, have you looked at the valve covers, edge of the head, and retainers for interference marks?

99 TA

iTrader: (1)

That's the first thing I checked and there are no marks anywhere. I have the TR 230, TR 7.4 pushrods and the YT rockers are 1.7. The heads were only milled .003" for cleanup and I have stock gaskets.

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

Any of the rockers seem loose or rough? Just wondering if something is wrong with one of the rockers since you said it sounded like only the pass. side? If all else fails try swapping just that side out to stock see if it goes away? Just some more thoughts.

Nate

99 TA

iTrader: (1)

I checked that too. About all that I saw was that some moved from side to side just a hair on the shaft. I'm not sure if that normal or not.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Did you go to "ZERO LASH" before you added preload? What ever your doing wrong your at least consistent because your repeating the same mistake over and over again. Once you install the rockers and have the preload properly set it should make a big racket for only a few minutes and gradually start to quiet down. I have the Comp Pro Mag 1.85s and they made a lot of racket when the engine was first fired up, but within 5 minutes the noise level was ALMOST back to the stock sound. Spin the pushrod until it starts to get snug and then add preload

Tin Indian

CHECKING YOUR LIFTER PRELOAD:
_______________________________________________

1. Turning the engine, bring one of the cylinders to TDC. The valves will be fully closed.

2. Now, fully loosen one of the rocker arm bolts on that cyl.

3. Then start turning the rocker arm bolt down until the lifter is at "zero lash". You will be able to tell it is at zero lash when the rocker bolt gets very hard to turn. It gets hard to turn because the valve spring starts to compress. Again, stop turning the bolt as soon as you feel resistance to turning.

4. Mark the bolt with a marker.

5. Now count how many turns it takes to completely tighten the rocker bolt to 22 FT/LB.

The bolt should have turned between 1 3/4 to 2 turns for the acceptable GM lifter peload.

If you don't get the 1 3/4 to 2 bolt turns of preload, you need a different length pushrod. (IE: you need a shorter rod if it takes much more than 2 turns, and a longer rod if it takes much less than 1 3/4 turns). I really think anywhere between 1 to 2 turns is acceptable. Remember, hyd. lifters can operate within a fairly large margin of preload as long as it's not excessive.

NOTE: This procedure does not alow you to "set" or "adjust" your lifter preload. All it does is tell you how much preload you have when the rocker bolt is fully tightened.

NOTE: You really only need to do this on one cylinder. The rest will be the same.

NOTE: If you have aftermarket Comp Cams “Type R” lifters, I understand that those like less preload than stock lifters. Instead of 1 3/4 to 2 full turns as indicated above, about 3/4 to 1 turn may be more acceptable.

NOTE: Allways run the engine prior to checking the preload so as to get the lifters pumped up. This is important if you just installed new lifters or had the old ones out while installing a new cam.

Hope this helps,
Ron

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I think you might have gotten the wrong pushrod length also. Mine with TR224 and YT's is as quiet as stock; I have 5/8 turn of preload. If you put the stock rockers back on, at least you will issolate the problem further; my guess is it's your pushrods not the rockers causing the noise. Or may be you have a lifter that just failed on that side of the engine.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

In regards to the pushrod length debate over aftermarket cam and milled heads vs world + dog...

All I know is this:

-My friend had GTP S2 heads & a GTP pig cam (CompCams)
-He put in 7.40" pushrods, and the motor sounded wrong. Very much a sewing machine. Lots of top end noise.
-We did a compression check. 140 psi.
-We put in 7.35" pushrods
-Compression check: 190 psi
-Valvetrain noise quieted down tremendously
-Car hauls ***.

-Andrew

Retsik

I have Patriot Stage 2 5.3L heads (unmilled), TR 224 cam and 7.4" rods, and replaced my stock rockers with YT 1.7's (because of dual spring clearance issues). Sounds like it's waay louder than it's supposed to (tick, tick, tick)... When I did the preload check (can't remember how far I needed to turn), I went w/o the shims.

It ticked before the swap (which I attributed a good bit of it to the rockers hitting the retainers), and sounds like it's worse with the YT's. Both sides tick the same... Is it possible that w/ all the valvetrain racket I should have used the shims???