Ping caused from leaky valve seals?
Ping caused from leaky valve seals? I think I might have an issue in regards to fuel dilution.
I get ping at wot (over 4000rpm). I believe it's due to the leaky valve seals (my hunch is because there is oil that accumulates on the bottom of most spark plug's threadding -when the car sits overnight (but not after running the car).
So far other things I have checked for the ping issue;
Plugs look good (rust colour tr55's)
timing stock
93 octane
PCV filter mod done
Sea foamed 2X
cleanned injectors
cleanned MAF multiple times
180' thermostat (fan on at 209)
What do you guys think?
Where do I go from here to solve the detonation , -new Heads?
I get ping at wot (over 4000rpm). I believe it's due to the leaky valve seals (my hunch is because there is oil that accumulates on the bottom of most spark plug's threadding -when the car sits overnight (but not after running the car).
So far other things I have checked for the ping issue;
Plugs look good (rust colour tr55's)
timing stock
93 octane
PCV filter mod done
Sea foamed 2X
cleanned injectors
cleanned MAF multiple times
180' thermostat (fan on at 209)
What do you guys think?
Where do I go from here to solve the detonation , -new Heads?
So far other things I have checked for the ping issue;
Plugs look good (rust colour tr55's)
[/QUOTE]
Your plugs should be a grey color not to white not to black. Rust color is not good. Any codes or ses light?
Plugs look good (rust colour tr55's)
[/QUOTE]
Your plugs should be a grey color not to white not to black. Rust color is not good. Any codes or ses light?
Try smoke testing your engine, if you do not see any smoke leaking from anywere take off your oil fill cap. If smoke comes pouring out of there you are probably leaking through your valve guide seals. Mine is leaking quite a bit some reason 108,000 on the car but I do not go through any oil? This is viewed as a vacuum leak and can lean out the particular cylinders that are leaking, which could cause detonation and ruin your engine. I am going to install new valve guide seals when I do the cam over winter. If you want to do the bare minimum, take off the valve covers, springs, retainers and replace your valve guide sealsl. Should not take too long and I think valve guide seals are pretty cheap.
Your plugs should be a grey color not to white not to black. Rust color is not good. Any codes or ses light?[/QUOTE]
Maybe it was from the 2 bottles of octane booster caused the light brown rust colour? They are definately not white, there is some black in some areas though.
No codes, and tuned by bryan @ PCM4Less.
Plugs are 2 yrs old, I am going to put TR6's in Monday along with a 160' thermo....
Try smoke testing your engine, if you do not see any smoke leaking from anywere take off your oil fill cap. If smoke comes pouring out of there you are probably leaking through your valve guide seals. Mine is leaking quite a bit some reason 108,000 on the car but I do not go through any oil? This is viewed as a vacuum leak and can lean out the particular cylinders that are leaking, which could cause detonation and ruin your engine. I am going to install new valve guide seals when I do the cam over winter. If you want to do the bare minimum, take off the valve covers, springs, retainers and replace your valve guide sealsl. Should not take too long and I think valve guide seals are pretty cheap.
Thats a good call!
Called a leakdown test???
No a smoke test and a leak down test are two different things. A smoke test will allow you to visually see where you have a vacuum leak. When you are performing a leak down you are measuring the amount of blowby past the rings. A leakdown test involves pressurizing the system and using a compression gauge in the sparkplug hole. Also it is really hard to read plugs with all the different additives they put in fuel. Your plugs should not be grey though, grey indicates detonation from the aluminum piston. If anything you want them to be light-medium tan.
The plugs look rust colour (tan\brown) with a little black around the top of the thredding and above where the arc hits. Not grey at all. I believe they looked good (TR55's).
I just installed a 160' thermostat and TR6 plugs last night and the car doesnt ping nearly as much! Before it would start to ping at 4000 rpm, now it starts to ping at at least 5100 rpm, so its getting a lot better.
Funny though today, the car idles at 1000 rpm, and the engine light came on -wierd.
info's
Timing is 30 degrees at WOT
Air/fuel is leaned out to 13 to 1 at wot
The fans are set 197 primary 209 for the secondary.
I just installed a 160' thermostat and TR6 plugs last night and the car doesnt ping nearly as much! Before it would start to ping at 4000 rpm, now it starts to ping at at least 5100 rpm, so its getting a lot better.
Funny though today, the car idles at 1000 rpm, and the engine light came on -wierd.
info's
Timing is 30 degrees at WOT
Air/fuel is leaned out to 13 to 1 at wot
The fans are set 197 primary 209 for the secondary.
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Try backing your timing down my stock timing is 28 degrees WOT @ 6000 rpm. Around 4-5000 rpm the timing is around 23-25 degrees. 4000=25 4400=24 4800=23 5200=26 5600+=28 degrees. You could also try to richen it to 12.5 around 4-5000 rpm and run 12.8 at 5000+ rpm. And change your fan settings to be around 180 degrees for the primary and 190 or so for the secondary fans. Cruise down the free way and record your coolant temp and have your primary fans come on 10 degrees warmer than your cruising temp. Have the fan shut off temp be about 5 degrees above your cruising temp.
These are all just bandaids to fixing the real problem, your valve guide seal. 30 degrees of timing at wot is not gaining your any power, its just hurting your engine if its pinging.
These are all just bandaids to fixing the real problem, your valve guide seal. 30 degrees of timing at wot is not gaining your any power, its just hurting your engine if its pinging.
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I think I might have an issue in regards to fuel dilution.
I get ping at wot (over 4000rpm). I believe it's due to the leaky valve seals (my hunch is because there is oil that accumulates on the bottom of most spark plug's threadding -when the car sits overnight (but not after running the car).
So far other things I have checked for the ping issue;
Plugs look good (rust colour tr55's)
timing stock
93 octane
PCV filter mod done
Sea foamed 2X
cleanned injectors
cleanned MAF multiple times
180' thermostat (fan on at 209)
What do you guys think?
Where do I go from here to solve the detonation , -new Heads?
I get ping at wot (over 4000rpm). I believe it's due to the leaky valve seals (my hunch is because there is oil that accumulates on the bottom of most spark plug's threadding -when the car sits overnight (but not after running the car).
So far other things I have checked for the ping issue;
Plugs look good (rust colour tr55's)
timing stock
93 octane
PCV filter mod done
Sea foamed 2X
cleanned injectors
cleanned MAF multiple times
180' thermostat (fan on at 209)
What do you guys think?
Where do I go from here to solve the detonation , -new Heads?
Also 30 degrees of timing is pointless, back it down some. More timing does not mean more power.
Are you hearing this ping or are you logging spark knock on a scanner?
Thanks for teh help guys. I didnt get around to doing anything -been too bisey, and got a TBSS ive been screwin with...
Its hibernating till spring I hope to fix it up then.
Its hibernating till spring I hope to fix it up then.
