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Head swap, cleaning block surface?

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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 05:49 AM
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Default Head swap, cleaning block surface?

The one concern I have in swapping my factory heads out for the 243's is getting the deck cleaned well enough for the new gaskets to seal. What's the trick to removing an old head gasket stuck on the block without damaged the surface? Also which type of head gasket would be good for a N/A Patriot stage II LS6 headed LS1? Stock or aftermarket? Thanks
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 04:30 PM
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The trick is just a little elbow grease, patience, and carefully using something like a razor blade to scrape off the gasket material. The only tricky part is cleaning around the locating dowels, but it's important to get this area clean.

I used the head gaskets that Patriot supplied. I'm not sure if they're called stock, but there's no graphite as with the stock 241 gaskets.
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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Carb cleaner or brake cleaner works well to soften things up before scraping.
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 07:40 PM
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gaskets should be with the heads....

carb cleaner and a razor.. its a pain in the ***...
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 04:34 AM
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Thumbs up on brake cleaner, I used that too.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 08:24 AM
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That sounds like a pain in the ***. So I guess patience is the trick to getting this done correctly. One other thing, how hard is it to get a breaker bar on the head bolts under the cowel? As well as a torque wrench? Other than that it sounds fairly easy.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 08:43 AM
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why would you need a breaker bar?
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by lifeisgood
why would you need a breaker bar?

To break the old head bolts loose in order to remove the heads.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 98-LS1
That sounds like a pain in the ***. So I guess patience is the trick to getting this done correctly. One other thing, how hard is it to get a breaker bar on the head bolts under the cowel? As well as a torque wrench? Other than that it sounds fairly easy.
yeah it takes a while to clean them off yourself or you can just drop off the heads at the machine shop and they will come back spotless.

Its not too hard to get a bar and a tq wrench in there.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 09:26 AM
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I think instead of a "breaker bar" he is thinking of a "break over." A breaker bar is typically used to pry things loose where a breaker bar is like a ratchet that does ratchet. It is just in a fixed position so it is stronger than a regular ratchet.

For getting the material off, you can go to your local parts store or Sears and get a gasket scrapper or a razor will work fine. Use some carb or brake cleaner to help with breaking the old gasket material loose. Be sure to not gouge the deck surface of the block. Minor scratching will happen but take your time and be careful. Be sure to use a clean rag to wipe out the bores of any debris and make sure all the bolt holes are clean and dry. You can use an air compressor to blow the bolt holes out and the rest (if it is carb/brake cleaner) will evaporate out pretty quickly. Once everything is clean you are ready to go back together! Let me know if you have any other questions!
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 09:55 AM
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There is buffing (cleaning) wheels that are plastic like that are usually green or yellow in color and go on the end of air die grinder and I get mine off of Snap On truck and are made for aluminum I am pretty sure. I have also got them at Napa but I dont know what they are called.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon@Texas-Speed
I think instead of a "breaker bar" he is thinking of a "break over." A breaker bar is typically used to pry things loose where a breaker bar is like a ratchet that does ratchet. It is just in a fixed position so it is stronger than a regular ratchet.

For getting the material off, you can go to your local parts store or Sears and get a gasket scrapper or a razor will work fine. Use some carb or brake cleaner to help with breaking the old gasket material loose. Be sure to not gouge the deck surface of the block. Minor scratching will happen but take your time and be careful. Be sure to use a clean rag to wipe out the bores of any debris and make sure all the bolt holes are clean and dry. You can use an air compressor to blow the bolt holes out and the rest (if it is carb/brake cleaner) will evaporate out pretty quickly. Once everything is clean you are ready to go back together! Let me know if you have any other questions!


Hey thanks for the tips. I will be calling you guys next Friday to order a cam. I'm still not 110% sure on which one would be the right one for my set-up so maybe ya'll could lead me in the right direction. Thanks again for the help!
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 98-LS1
Hey thanks for the tips. I will be calling you guys next Friday to order a cam. I'm still not 110% sure on which one would be the right one for my set-up so maybe ya'll could lead me in the right direction. Thanks again for the help!
Sounds good man! Just give us a call and we can get you setup with a cam to meet your specific goals! You can shoot me a PM with any questions you might have as well.

Jon
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 02:46 PM
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as the bolts.... take your heads completely off the car if they are not welded... if so, its pretty much a two man job..
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 11:27 PM
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if that remmnants of gasket is a bitch, i use a very fine emmory cloth, and string it along a big flat file. ( the flat file is just to support the emmory cloth) after that is done, i use premium gas to clean of the deck and head surface, thats to get all of the oil off of the surfaces. it may look clean, but there is always something on there that you cant see. i might be parinoid but its good to always double check.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 01:31 AM
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Wow. Some of you are taking WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much time getting your gasket material off. Kinda like going around both elbows to get to your ******* .

To the OP, if you have access to air tools. Get yourself a 3M sanding disk kit.



Use a lighter grit on the block (at least 220ish), and your block will be clean in 10 minutes or less. Stuff some towels down in your lifter valleys to keep mess out of there. When you're done, bring each cylinder to TDC and clean it off nice & shiny. Will only take an extra 1-2 min per piston, and well worth it to get the carbon build up off of there.

If you don't have access to air, but have a high speed drill, use one of these in a VERY FINE brush..



Go over the block carefully, and keep your hands steady. With a good drill that has a higher speed and decent battery this shouldn't take you any more than 10-15 minutes.


Hell with ice scrapers and razor blades. You guys are crazy
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 01:37 AM
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10 min with a wire wheel had the block suface super clean. Wiped it down and was good to go.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by novaflash2002
if that remmnants of gasket is a bitch, i use a very fine emmory cloth, and string it along a big flat file. ( the flat file is just to support the emmory cloth) after that is done, i use premium gas to clean of the deck and head surface, thats to get all of the oil off of the surfaces. it may look clean, but there is always something on there that you cant see. i might be parinoid but its good to always double check.
I only use MEK to clean off surfaces. Gas and alchohol always leave something. MEK strips everything off. When done cleaning, wipe with alchohol until clean, then use MEK. See how much extra gunk comes off.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by nj02vette
I only use MEK to clean off surfaces. Gas and alchohol always leave something. MEK strips everything off. When done cleaning, wipe with alchohol until clean, then use MEK. See how much extra gunk comes off.

Just be careful using MEK...it's highly carcinogenic. It will clean well, that is true.
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