help me pick parts for my new motor.
#22
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From: Sterling Heights, MI
its not about i have XXX amount to spend, the stock 241s were ok, so my dad is making me reuse them. I get any cam grind i want, for the same price as putting the stock cam back in. My dad will pay for a new rotating assembly, new valves cuz they were chewed up from the chipped pistons, a cam, and re assembly. Everything else i have to pay for, but with limited funds per my dads rules... its a fucked up situation cuz he doesnt understand im jsut going to have to rip the motor apart... again... in Feb after me Bday when i put PRCs or AFRs on it. Hence going with a "Donkey Dick" cam now, because 1) i want the power 2) i want the sound 3) I have a corvette to DD so driveability is as high on my list as emissions
#23
well if youre just barely able to "eek" the parts that you need for a cam swap, then you really cant afford it altogether. So how much is he actually going to put down on this car in dollar numbers?
#24
also, just buy a good used cam under his nose and hide the donkey dick. wow that really sounds terrible, but w/e. then i n feb, when you get the heads you actually need right now, slide in the ms4. problem solved, hell you can find a stock cam with low miles on it for like 50-100 bones.
#25
also, just buy a good used cam under his nose and hide the donkey dick. wow that really sounds terrible, but w/e. then i n feb, when you get the heads you actually need right now, slide in the ms4. problem solved, hell you can find a stock cam with low miles on it for like 50-100 bones.
#26
#27
#28
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From: Sterling Heights, MI
yes i could afford them, i just wouldnt have a way to get them to the builder and get them on... he is way up in the to of northern CA and im no where near that. plus i know my dad would find a way to find out, and that would go so well for me
there is no, he is putting down 6500 and calling it good, he is paying for reassembly, a rotating assembly, 4 new valves (they were chewed up from the pistons breaking), and then bolts and gaskets and fluids. I get my choice of cam, from stock, to the most radical custom ground thing i want, for the same price, so it would be pointless to put a stock one in it, when i can get whatever i want.
and im sitting on about 10Gs to support the car, i just cant spend it all at this time, so yea i have to "eek" the money out for valvesprings, pushrods, oil pump etc. But if something happened a month from now i will have all the money i need to fix/support said cam/motor.
my dads deal for paying for the motor was so that i sit on the money and dont buy another streetbike. So i have motorcycle funds to support my car.
and im sitting on about 10Gs to support the car, i just cant spend it all at this time, so yea i have to "eek" the money out for valvesprings, pushrods, oil pump etc. But if something happened a month from now i will have all the money i need to fix/support said cam/motor.
my dads deal for paying for the motor was so that i sit on the money and dont buy another streetbike. So i have motorcycle funds to support my car.
#29
Not to be a dick, but didn't you say your Dad was tired of you driving HIS Corvette around everyday? Hmmm....
#30
Unless your living at the track, why put an MS4 in your car? Isn't that thing like 244/248 or something like that, maybe even bigger? I just don't understand why you want to kill the driveability of your DAILY DRIVER? I hear with an unbelievably good tuner, you CAN make that cam streetable, but it's not going to be easy on your tuner.
Sounds like you like the "lope" of big cam and like the fact that you'd be able to say "I have a donkey dick cam". IMO the MS4 is a drag strip cam. Other than that, I'd say avoid it, but to each his own.
Good luck!
Just to let you know, I'm doing a 418cid stroker and the cam won't be nearly as big as the MS4...
edit: Okay, it's a 239/242 .649/.609. You'll be killing your springs. Even with patriot golds good to .650 lift, that is cutting it very close!
You'll need a lot of valvetrain upgrades to run that cam...
Sounds like you like the "lope" of big cam and like the fact that you'd be able to say "I have a donkey dick cam". IMO the MS4 is a drag strip cam. Other than that, I'd say avoid it, but to each his own.
Good luck!
Just to let you know, I'm doing a 418cid stroker and the cam won't be nearly as big as the MS4...
edit: Okay, it's a 239/242 .649/.609. You'll be killing your springs. Even with patriot golds good to .650 lift, that is cutting it very close!
You'll need a lot of valvetrain upgrades to run that cam...
#31
I would throw in a set of Diamond -2cc pistons with a 3.905" bore. Set those up on an Eagle 6.125" h-beam rod and reuse the stock crank and you will be ready to go. I would think a standard plasma moly ring set would be fine for what you are doing. This should set you up with a solid bottom end and will actually work out cheaper than if you were to go down to your dealership for replacement rods and pistons. Also, the reliefs in the pistons will give you more than sufficent PTV and even allow you to mill the heads to bump the compression up with larger MS4 style cam. Give me a call or shoot me a PM with any questions you might have and we'll get you setup with the parts to complete your build. I should have everything on the shelf and ready to ship!
Jon
Jon
#32
The MS4 does not require a lot of valvetrain upgrades to be run in a stock bottom end or any car for that matter. Like just about any aftermarket camshaft, it requires a valve spring upgrade and a swap to chromoly pushrods. Correct, not every first time tuner can get the driveability of a cam this size to drive like stock. However, the same can be said for the high 22x and 23x duration camshafts that are being ground on 110 LSA's that everyone seems to love. In reality, driveability or streetability is only an opinion. If the OP is looking for an all out cam that will run hard on the street and strip, the MS4 is a great choice.
Jon
Jon
#33
^^^Jon, don't get me wrong, definitely not trying to bash the MS4. I'm sure a lot of research went into this grind. It just seems to me, I could be wrong, that this size cam will only lead to problems for the OP. With a lift at .649, you can't tell me that this cam isn't going to be hell of valve springs. OP, is your Dad going to pay to have your springs replaced every x-number of miles? Just saying, maybe the MS3 would be better...
Do a lot of research, ask as many questions as possible, and don't let anyone persuade you into doing something you will not be happy with. Just trying to provide some helpful insight here. Not like it'll affect me if you choose MS4, just stating my opinions. I've done a lot of researching for my set-ups...
Do a lot of research, ask as many questions as possible, and don't let anyone persuade you into doing something you will not be happy with. Just trying to provide some helpful insight here. Not like it'll affect me if you choose MS4, just stating my opinions. I've done a lot of researching for my set-ups...
#34
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=45&catid=28
i'm not seeing why you dont do this? If he's dropping 6500.00, then just get this and you make up what ever difference there is.
or make him feel better and do a stock cubed Long block. like this one.
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=41&catid=27
i'm not seeing why you dont do this? If he's dropping 6500.00, then just get this and you make up what ever difference there is.
or make him feel better and do a stock cubed Long block. like this one.
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=41&catid=27
#35
it sounds like your dads the homie, and you should just appreciate whatever hes doin for you. you might as well put some stock ls6 heads on. Their affordable, and flow a little better then stock. Your not going to like DD on a ms4. I have a torquer 2 and when i was M6 it wasn't the MOST fun dd, but it was definitly streetable. What kinda clutch do you have to support the added horsepower your going to get? Dont expect your stocker to last too long. I was 400+ rwhp with a 25k stock clutch and it and the hydraulics were toast after a bit.
#36
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From: Sterling Heights, MI
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=45&catid=28
i'm not seeing why you dont do this? If he's dropping 6500.00, then just get this and you make up what ever difference there is.
or make him feel better and do a stock cubed Long block. like this one.
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=41&catid=27
i'm not seeing why you dont do this? If he's dropping 6500.00, then just get this and you make up what ever difference there is.
or make him feel better and do a stock cubed Long block. like this one.
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=41&catid=27
it sounds like your dads the homie, and you should just appreciate whatever hes doin for you. you might as well put some stock ls6 heads on. Their affordable, and flow a little better then stock. Your not going to like DD on a ms4. I have a torquer 2 and when i was M6 it wasn't the MOST fun dd, but it was definitly streetable. What kinda clutch do you have to support the added horsepower your going to get? Dont expect your stocker to last too long. I was 400+ rwhp with a 25k stock clutch and it and the hydraulics were toast after a bit.
#37
Hey man, to each his own. If you want to go MS4 just to say "I have an MS4", that is your choice. You'll have to live with it.
If you've noticed, all the post seem to say the same thing. Go for a smaller, more streetable cam. It is obvious that this car is not going to be a drag only car, so why go MS4? Why not look at something much more practical for your situation?
If you do go with the MS4, be sure to get springs good to probably .660 lift to be safe, titanium retainers, hardened pushrods, timing chain upgrade? Not sure about the timing chain, but I think you'll need to upgrade.
Hmm, oh and your stock fuel system most likely will not work very well. Probably start to lean out around 5K or so. So you'll want to do a 255 LPH fuel pump to hang with the cam since you'll need to wind out to get to your power range. Hopefully at this point your not maxing your stock injectors out, so might want to think about budgeting for a larger injector.
You mentioned a clutch already. Lifters? If you want to rev higher than stock, I think you'll want to upgrade those lifters to atleast an LS7, or a caddy lifter.
I could be wrong here, but this is pretty much what started happening to me when I modded. I did heads and a smaller cam to keep the street manners, but I'll tell you this, my fuel system would lean out around 5K even when I was just head/cam/headers. Not safe to have a WOT leaning out...
Do you have headers and full exhaust? You'll need this too for a cam like that.
If you've noticed, all the post seem to say the same thing. Go for a smaller, more streetable cam. It is obvious that this car is not going to be a drag only car, so why go MS4? Why not look at something much more practical for your situation?
If you do go with the MS4, be sure to get springs good to probably .660 lift to be safe, titanium retainers, hardened pushrods, timing chain upgrade? Not sure about the timing chain, but I think you'll need to upgrade.
Hmm, oh and your stock fuel system most likely will not work very well. Probably start to lean out around 5K or so. So you'll want to do a 255 LPH fuel pump to hang with the cam since you'll need to wind out to get to your power range. Hopefully at this point your not maxing your stock injectors out, so might want to think about budgeting for a larger injector.
You mentioned a clutch already. Lifters? If you want to rev higher than stock, I think you'll want to upgrade those lifters to atleast an LS7, or a caddy lifter.
I could be wrong here, but this is pretty much what started happening to me when I modded. I did heads and a smaller cam to keep the street manners, but I'll tell you this, my fuel system would lean out around 5K even when I was just head/cam/headers. Not safe to have a WOT leaning out...
Do you have headers and full exhaust? You'll need this too for a cam like that.
#38
Is it just me or are people doing a really bad job at answering the questions you asked(aside from TSP)? Assuming you have to use the stock block and heads, you mentioned he would put up for a rotating assembly. Does that include a crank? If so I say you go 383 or 396 stroked forged assembly. Use the -2cc Diamond pistons TSP recommended. Then throw in an MS4 if you like the extra cubes will make the cam more docile. While you are at it have the 241 heads milled to get back some of your compression. I know those 241 heads are not gonna be up to the task to feed 383 cubes etc. but if you are buying heads in february it should be fine for a couple months.
#39
Is it just me or are people doing a really bad job at answering the questions you asked(aside from TSP)? Assuming you have to use the stock block and heads, you mentioned he would put up for a rotating assembly. Does that include a crank? If so I say you go 383 or 396 stroked forged assembly. Use the -2cc Diamond pistons TSP recommended. Then throw in an MS4 if you like the extra cubes will make the cam more docile. While you are at it have the 241 heads milled to get back some of your compression. I know those 241 heads are not gonna be up to the task to feed 383 cubes etc. but if you are buying heads in february it should be fine for a couple months.
His DAD wants him to keep it as "Stock" as possible is what I've taken from the posts. He mentioned not wanting his son driving a 500rwhp car around. So I doubt he'll do a stroker kit. Seems like his Dad will do what it takes to bring the car back to stock, but is being nice and letting his son pick a camshaft. I could be wrong. I just want to help.
#40
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His DAD wants him to keep it as "Stock" as possible is what I've taken from the posts. He mentioned not wanting his son driving a 500rwhp car around. So I doubt he'll do a stroker kit. Seems like his Dad will do what it takes to bring the car back to stock, but is being nice and letting his son pick a camshaft. I could be wrong. I just want to help.