5.3L 396 stroker?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
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From: Fresno, California
5.3L 396 stroker? Hey all Ive been without my car for a couple weeks (clutch went by-by) so lately Ive been looking for other projects.
Lately seems like I see more and more people going with a 5.3L block, seems to make sense as I can pick one up for $100. Ive read that like the LS1 max it can be bored is 3.905. With a 4 inch stroke it would make a 383 and a 4.125 would make 396, am I right?
So just for the sake of discussion what would be the downfalls, if any, of persuing a 396 5.3L stroker? As far as I know, using the measurments above, Ive begun to assemble a parts list. Im not actually going to build something like this, at least not soon!
Block: 5.3L Iorn block $100-$200
RODS: Eagle SIR6250BBLW 6.250" $305.33
Crankshaft: K1 Crankshafts (By Carrillo) 346-4125RB6F 4.125Stroke $785
SCAT Chevy Forged 4340 4-LS1-4125-6125-24 4.125Stroke $699
PISTONS: Diamond/Mahle forged 3.905bore +/- 600 dollars
Obviously I would need alot more to put it together, but what are your thoughts on a build of this nature? Would it be reliable? Would it put the block under undue strain?
Ive posted up the same thread in the performance truck section to see what they say, but wanted to see what yall think too.
Thanks all!
Oh by the way Im well aware of the 6 liter option, but this is simply for the sake of discussion, so please no "get a 6L/LS2 block" answers!
Lately seems like I see more and more people going with a 5.3L block, seems to make sense as I can pick one up for $100. Ive read that like the LS1 max it can be bored is 3.905. With a 4 inch stroke it would make a 383 and a 4.125 would make 396, am I right?
So just for the sake of discussion what would be the downfalls, if any, of persuing a 396 5.3L stroker? As far as I know, using the measurments above, Ive begun to assemble a parts list. Im not actually going to build something like this, at least not soon!
Block: 5.3L Iorn block $100-$200
RODS: Eagle SIR6250BBLW 6.250" $305.33
Crankshaft: K1 Crankshafts (By Carrillo) 346-4125RB6F 4.125Stroke $785
SCAT Chevy Forged 4340 4-LS1-4125-6125-24 4.125Stroke $699
PISTONS: Diamond/Mahle forged 3.905bore +/- 600 dollars
Obviously I would need alot more to put it together, but what are your thoughts on a build of this nature? Would it be reliable? Would it put the block under undue strain?
Ive posted up the same thread in the performance truck section to see what they say, but wanted to see what yall think too.
Thanks all!
Oh by the way Im well aware of the 6 liter option, but this is simply for the sake of discussion, so please no "get a 6L/LS2 block" answers!
I see no problem with doing this. Personally I think the 4.125 stroke is a bit much compared to the small bore. I actually have a 5.3 that spun a bearing I am gonna do a bigger cube build with and leave the 5.3 on the front of the block so it is like a big cube sbc in an old school sleaper. Thinking about putting it in my 31 ford.
Your best bet is to call the various manufactures of stroker kits and get their take on this.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
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From: BFE
The block can take it and if arranged professionaly, it will work fine. Longevity depends on who builds it and how much detail went into it.
There is always the option of 4.100 crank as well 393 cid.
There is always the option of 4.100 crank as well 393 cid.
Trending Topics
My 2003 Silverado has a 5.3L and I want to build another (more power) engine for it. I was debating on what to do? Does anyone know the max bore for a 5.3 could take? I do like the idea of a 383 or even a 396....hmmm
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Hayward CA
the max bore u can get out of the 5.3 safely is boring it to make it a iron 5.7 383 stroker... im not sure about a 396 tho///
I have an LS6 396 stroker with a Lunati assembly. I don't see any reason it couldn't be done to your 5.3. If u plan on going na it should be fine but if you want to spray it then it requires a lot of bank roll to ensure the pistons last. Such as coating the sides,crowns, and combustion chambers and a whole lot of other precautions. If u want to spray it and not spend a ton of money I would go with a 383. That way you have more piston and it can take more heat and abuse.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 158
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I was just looking on ebay at cranks, ideas popped up for me too while I made a beeline to search anything up for it. Course all the pros i have seen say dont go over 4.00 in since the crown of the piston, and the ring pack will be extremely small, and making it more prone to rocking at bdc, again back to the experts.
But it's no slap-it-together method. My engine builder is about as **** as they come..prob a good thing
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 458
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From: Keller, Texas
#'s have varied over the years, last pull in July '08 was 463rwhp/462rwtq SAE
not that it makes a whole lot of diff but was through 3" steel d/s, 12 bolt and 3.90 gears
def not a peaky combo but has major grunt and gets my tank moving
has run 11.14 @ 125mph at 3700lbs
not that it makes a whole lot of diff but was through 3" steel d/s, 12 bolt and 3.90 gears
def not a peaky combo but has major grunt and gets my tank moving
has run 11.14 @ 125mph at 3700lbs
Last edited by cdubbzz; Nov 12, 2009 at 10:51 PM.
