5.3L 396 stroker?
I would honestly buy a spare used LS1 block for $100 more and save 88 lbs. In the grand scheme of things $100 is not much at all. That's roughly the price difference between your two cranks.
I would not use a 6.250 length rod. That would put you at a 0.9175 deck height after decking the block .010. I don't even think there is a piston out there built to those rods and crank around a 9.23-9.24 deck height. They would have to be custom and then your budget plan gets more expensive. I would use a 6.125 or 6.200 rod depending on what you can find off the shelf piston wise.
I would not use a 6.250 length rod. That would put you at a 0.9175 deck height after decking the block .010. I don't even think there is a piston out there built to those rods and crank around a 9.23-9.24 deck height. They would have to be custom and then your budget plan gets more expensive. I would use a 6.125 or 6.200 rod depending on what you can find off the shelf piston wise.
i would just pay the extra $ to build a 6.0 based stroker. but with the $ the 4.8/5.3 blocks and engines go for now. makes me think it may be worth to build a stroker out of a 5.3/4.8 bored block.
but then again the machine work alone for the bore, deck, align hone etc for the 4.8/5.3 block. kinda puts you back in what a 6.0 based build cost. plus cost of stroker rotating assembly and any machine work needed before assembly.
so idk. until theres cast 4in stroke cranks, imo its not cost effective plus your giving up ci and bore for bout same cost of what it cost to build 6.0 based stroker.
but then again the machine work alone for the bore, deck, align hone etc for the 4.8/5.3 block. kinda puts you back in what a 6.0 based build cost. plus cost of stroker rotating assembly and any machine work needed before assembly.
so idk. until theres cast 4in stroke cranks, imo its not cost effective plus your giving up ci and bore for bout same cost of what it cost to build 6.0 based stroker.
The iron LSx blocks generally don't need decking nor align-honing. If you find one that needs either, better to just find a block that doesn't.
In the days of the 350, these were common for serious buildups, but those blocks, frankly, sucked.
No sense doing them just because they used to be considered mandatory. Only do what your build needs.
In the days of the 350, these were common for serious buildups, but those blocks, frankly, sucked.
No sense doing them just because they used to be considered mandatory. Only do what your build needs.
The iron LSx blocks generally don't need decking nor align-honing. If you find one that needs either, better to just find a block that doesn't.
In the days of the 350, these were common for serious buildups, but those blocks, frankly, sucked.
No sense doing them just because they used to be considered mandatory. Only do what your build needs.
In the days of the 350, these were common for serious buildups, but those blocks, frankly, sucked.
No sense doing them just because they used to be considered mandatory. Only do what your build needs.
besides i have always prefered a +.010 out the bore deck height. with all ls engines. the one in my car was .015 out the bore with .053 compressed gasket for a .038 quench area. i was taught that .035-.040 quench is a good number to shoot for. just about any engine.
im also very strict with bearings clearances,crank thrust,etc.
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LS-Gen IV with 4.1" & 98mm Hi ALL, these are pictures of Block Work needed to fit a 4.1" crankshaft AND at a bore of 98mm.
The piston I fit is made correctly by RacTech as to NOT leave the bore at the bottom.
You may require a 3.915" "file fit" size piston with NO increase in cost as is a "shelf" part form RacTech.
The Bob Weight was 1798
Lance
The piston I fit is made correctly by RacTech as to NOT leave the bore at the bottom.
You may require a 3.915" "file fit" size piston with NO increase in cost as is a "shelf" part form RacTech.
The Bob Weight was 1798
Lance
