Should I replace oil pump during cam swap?
If you have a 01+ then you probably have the updated pump(which is the same pump with the new valve). the other option is a "bluprinted ported oil pump from SLP or a few other manufacturers....just flows more oil....better psi...
stock I saw 30-40 at idle...45-50 at cruise...60 at WOT high rpm
SLP Ported I see 40-45 at idle...60 at cruise and 60-80 at WOT high rpm....
you need atleast 10 psi/1000rpm....
seems like a good upgrade to me...especially since I can spin up to 6800 at the track
and the pumps randomly failed...meaning no specific thing set it off...
basically the valve would fail cause the spring that pushed it open would get stuck.....
they fixed the problem on 01+ LS1 and LS6 engines by replacing the valve mechanism....
a buddy of mine had his fail at 20000 miles!!! thank goodness for factory warranty.
its easy to do the swap to a new(preferably ported)ls1/ls6 pump. and If you do a timing chain swap(you should do that too... I went double chain) then you will have to pull off the pump to do that.
Its Easy, Fairly inexpensive insurance...
Just Do It
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...with regards to changing your pump, consider the facts and then do what is right for you and keep in mind that an awful lot of what you hear on these boards are know-nothings just regurgitating what they read on another post....
. Not to mention on the flip side oil preasure stayes nice and high with the upgrade. I chose the ARE upgraded oil pump and my car loves it
. good luck When GM sent the motors to Lingenfelter to have the cam swapped, tuned, tested, and then packed up to ship out to the Grand Am teams in 1999, during testing, several pumps failed. When the pumps were disassembled, the internals were wiped clean
(no gear lobes to pump oil left). GM went back and changed some tolerances and hardened the gears to make them hold up better. From the outside (and even "looking" at the inside), you can't "tell" there is any difference but the materials are much better in the 01/LS6 pumps.
Now, having said all this, there are 1Ks of people who have 97-00 cars (oil pumps) who have never and will never have a problem. The failures tended to be under high RPM/high load (race) conditions so the "average" daily driver (stock/slightly modified) is in pretty good shape. But if you’re already in the motor and it would take you 30mins more to change to a new pump, why not? People have had new LS6 pumps "fail" (bypass valve stick open) but if they are ported correctly, then all the flashing is removed from around the valve area and the valve CAN NOT stick.
I'm not saying you should not replace the pump, but considering the mild RPM range I have I would not necessarily do it again. If there is going to be significantly more RPM then you better replace the pump.
and the new ones..the gears have been hardened to help prevent failure from those getting screwed up.
Your mechanic is either REALLY lazy or is completely miss-informed about how to work on the lower end of these motors.
Your mechanic is either REALLY lazy or is completely miss-informed about how to work on the lower end of these motors.





