well guys here is my list of mods, i just dont know were to head to next lol.... I dont know what the ls1 would respond to better!!! So i was just looking for some input on what some other peoples next mod would be!

-LS6 Intake
-Ported TB
-Long Tube headers, Y pipe With factory slp catback, with qtp cutout
-Factory slp lid
-NX 125 Wet shot
-Skip Shift
-B&M ripper
-Spec stage 2 Clutch and all

This is on a 99 FIREHAWK
Thanks guys!

Also On bottle what do you guys think i may be putting to the rear wheels!!!

 

Your next mod will be the rear when it snaps in half from your addiction to speed.

Nah not really, as long as you dont launch on N2O and sticky tires. Not much else to do to that car without tearing into a heads and cam project... You got a fat wallet?

 

+1 on the rear end, a nice 12 bolt w/some 4.11 gears.

 

you sure that clutch will hold the power of the spray??

i'd go stg 3 or 3+

do it right the first time, instead of doing it 2x

how is the car performing at the track? might benefit from suspension upgrades.
but gears would gain the most power...and reduce the life of the rear.

 

I wouldnt touch the nitrous without doing a racetronix

 

Also sub frame connectors

 

the stock pump will support close to 500rwhp i ran a 150 on a cammed car....

 

next mod would be a cam btw...

 

agreed

 

a good nitrous cam would go a long way. with the spray you could see an easy additional 50-60rwhp.

 

sounds good guys!!! i really appreciate all the help!!! i am running on 10.5 m/t et streets.... and starting to spary when i get out of the whole, about the top of first.... do you think i could gain much from a good dyno tune???

and what kind of power do you guys think i may be putting to the wheels!

thanks again

 

I'm sure it would get a little bit of horsepower out of your setup if its never been dyno tuned before. But I wouldn't do it yet if you plan to do something like a cam install soon, because you'll definitely need it tuned after that. No need to pay ~$400 twice!

 

thanks man, can always use helpful info!!! Well Whats a good nitrous cam, that has a good choppy idle???

 

Eh, there's lots of ways to go with it. I'm not sure what exactly denotes a good nitrous cam, since you're not ALWAYS on the bottle. Most power adder (supercharger/turbocharger) cams have a longer exhaust duration than intake (i.e. like 233/239) The 233/239 cam is one offered by Texas Speed, and Id say that would work pretty well for it, and certainly would have chop to it. (Its also a pretty moderate-large cam, for very significant power/torque gains) The Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) I've heard is what gives a cam its characteristic choppiness, the lower the choppier. My 232/234 Torquer V.2 is on a 112 LSA, and thats generally what is recommended. I've seen cams on 110, 114, and 116 LSA's commonly as well, the 116 LSA being the tamest. Contact a sponsor or PatrickG or some other big time cam guy about what they think is the best nitrous cam.

 

yah ive also noticed the same on the lsa... but I also heard that you can only go so low without flycutting... is your pistons fly cut on the 112 lsa....

thanks again

 

also what kind of gains in time on the track are people gaining of gears, stock to 4.10's.... would it be worth it/???

 

Flycutting will have to deal more with what type of cam and heads you choose. Once you decide on a H/C combo you can do some things to avoid flycutting. My 232/234 with .595/.598" lifts didn't require flycutting with my 5.3L heads. Other types of heads have even larger cc combustion chambers. I think stock ones are around 72cc for each combustion chamber, mine are now down around 62cc with the different style heads. Cams like the 233/239 I mentioned before, or the MS3 and even MS4 can be used with many aftermarket heads without having to worry with PTV (piston to valve) clearance. Your friend is compression ratio though, and the larger the combustion chamber the lower the compression ratio, which means less gains.

You should pick out a power goal, and a purpose to use it for. Street/strip car or dedicated drag car or whatever you want it set up for will be a big determination in what combo to go with.

 

I haven't really seen you mention anything about heads; those may be out of your budget. You also mentioned racing the car at a strip I believe, so I'll just piece together a recommendation from that. We'll shoot for 400rwhp N/A, and 390rwtq. With your 125 N2O shot that would put you around 500/500 I'd think.

Anyway, with stock heads I'd doubt you'd see any problems with PTV with a cam as big as that 233/239. (Your valvesprings would need to be replaced, mind you...and some hardened pushrods are good insurance as well) Any one of the sponsors that sells cams knows their cams up and down, and will be able to answer any questions you have about PTV clearance with different combinations. I'm surprised none of them have come in here to mention their cams yet! Texas Speed has nice cam packages that include the cam, pushrods, and valvesprings. You can reuse the stock rockers...they would be fine. While the accessories are out of the way during the cam install, most people put in a high volume oil pump and also an LS2 timing chain, just for more relatively cheap insurance. The company you choose to buy the cam from will likely have both those products as well.

As for a rear end gear you have to do some calculating. How fast do you think a 500rwhp M6 can trap in the 1/4 mile with your size tire? You don't want to be over-revving the engine running through the trap at 7k with the wrong size gear in the back. If you choose to stay with your stock rear, and break it every few passes, you can upgrade from your 3.42's to 3.73's or 4.10's. The 4.10s would likely be too much and run your engine above redline with a couple hundred feet left of track. 3.73's would be a decent improvement in time, and will better manage your track space. In the event your rear end breaks, which it will, you can upgrade to a 9", 12 bolt, or the newer strange dana60 or whatever its called... The 12 bolt will accept the same 3.73s and a 4.11 gear, so no change in that. The 9" will accept 3.90's, which would probably be the sweet spot for 500 rwhp in the 1/4 mile. Thats what I'm probably going to go with when I order a new rear..

 

thanks alot for your time! I understand what your saying, this is actually my daily driver car lol, i am almost about done with my pretty much strip car but still street car its a 94z, 383 stroker... Im just trying to make this one "firehawk" a little more you know not so slow lol.... So im trying to stay away from heads atm because i dont want to have to tear into it, so im trying to make as much power possible on the stock block stock head combo... uve have given me a few ideas and helped alot...!!!!!!!!!!

 

Cam only sounds like what you need brother. Would work out well for you! Good luck with it. You could even chance the stock rear I guess, and move up to a 4.10 gear like you mentioned...its a sick difference in putting you in the back of your seat. Just dont get too juice happy all the time!