Wow ok sounds like a plan , though i looked and couldnt find any one wire purple i found one with a blue wire? any way i could get a picture of said plug

 

I can go downstairs and get you a pic...give me just a sec..

 

ok sweet , thanks

 

Okay here you go...

 

Well i ran outside to try it and i tried from the side closest to the interior and it just sparked nothing happened tho and the other side nothing at all happened

 

the side closest to the interior of the car of the left side of my pic comes from the ignition switch in the column. It sparked because the car is off and the switch is to ground. If you can jump the right half of that plug to the positive post of the battery and nothing happens your starter is not hooked up right, or is a brand new junk unit. You only have two wires on the starter the larger going straight to the battery and the smaller one which is coming from the plug you have undone.

 

Okay So im pretty sure i didnt mess up the fact there are only two wires one big one small so i got them in the right spots for sure. Its got to be hooked up right ? this leads me to believe its a bad unit?

Also what about the gauges and radio? is that connected to the starter issue ? i doubt it? this is confusing lol

 

No, I think all the inside of the car gets its power from the wire on the back of the alt. you might check it just incase you had pulled it taking the starter off. It is really starting to sound like you have a short somewhere either under the hood or in the column/dash jacking up the car and beating on the starter may have just helped whatever is shorted to either make or break contact. Have you tried tracing the positive battery cable accross the front of the engine to make sure it didn't get into the belt or crank pulley and get damaged. I even saw a fan take out a cable on an LT1 care once.

 

Oh man lol , all the battery connections are fine uncrimped and uncaught in anything so thats one off the list. Im not sure how i got a short or how to even find it All i know is im kinda limited on time to fix it or they are gonna tow me

 

ok now i have a warning on my car from the retarted school police saying they are gonna tow it if i cant get it moved, so the problem got real lol.

Im gonna go to chevy tomorrow and have a new key made on the off chance the vats chip is messed up , tho it wont account for the gauges and radio

 

Instead of throwing more parts at it, why dont you just tow it to the dealership and have the professionals diagnose it? Just a thought... Should've moved the beast when you beat the starter into working!

 

Shoulda woulda coulda, bottom line is im a broke college student i dont have money to crank out for a chevy dealership. Just lookin for ideas

 

If the starter didn't work when the wire was jumped to the battery, vats or not it has no effect on that you were bypassing everything inside the car, and the computer. Your starter that is on there doesn't work.

 

ok im going to hook up the old starter and see if anything is different ill let you know after my damn molecular physics exam.

 

I posted it in your other thread.. you must have not been paying attention to it.

Your Ignition Switch is fucked up, drop the Steering clumn and replace it.

If you have a good Battery, and no power Accessories in the Car, but you have all Headlights, Dome Lights..etc..that come on when the Car is off and the Key isn't on in the Ignition, then 99% of the time it's the Ignition Switch.

I know from experience, and it pisses you off to when you figure out what it is.

You say that you don't have anything with the Gauges moving and the Radio is not working at all..and you have a new Starter, so you can rule that out.

Ignition Switch, trust me. If the old Starter works, take the new one back, get your money back and get an Ignition Switch.

 

The ignition switch may be the problem when it comes to the dash and all that. It still doesn't explain why the starter didn't work when 12 volts was shot straight to the solenoid, should have cranked the engine over reguardless. He was unhooked and out in front of the key switch at that point

 

^^I couldn't find where he said that he had Volts going to the Solenoid. He said that something sparked under there..but I couldn't understand what was typed. If he was messing around near the Starter with anything metal, it's really east to make contact with that positive Terminal.

This is what should be checked if anything..
He should get a Test Light on the Purple Wire and contact the other end of the Test Light to the Chassis, and then have someone turn the Key to Start and see if it lights up.

No Light = bad Ignition Switch..and I'm getting that vibe from everythin else that has been said.

 

is there a guide on changing ingnition switch

 

I've never changed one. Although it shouldn't be to difficult. But it sounds like your issue. I had the ignition switch go bad in my 93 TA, I turned the key and nothing happened although all lights were on. The guages went haywire the last time I drove it until I fixed it.

 

i was under the impression its very difficult although the part seems to be cheap