Do you really have to pull the heads to change lifters????
11-28-2008, 07:25 AM
#23
I thought using the 16 pen magnet went out years ago when the JPR tool came along. The cost of the JPR tool spawned the idea of the 5/16" dowel rods(wood or steel). I have both the JPR tool and two metal dowel rods(JPR tool works on some engines and the metal dowel works better on others), but I've had nightmares about breaking off a wooden dowel in the engine block. That's why I use the metal dowels instead of wood. When you stop and think about all the work it is to use 16 telescoping magnets compared to 2 metal dowel rods not to mention what would happen if one of the magnets sticks to a lifter it's a no brainer. Considering what can happen using the russian roulette method the cost of 2 metal dowels is a real bargain.
11-28-2008, 03:29 PM
#26
The rods don't contact roller on the lifter so the type of material isn't all that important unless it's wood which can break off during removal. The rod lodges itself in the step on the side of the lifter. This keeps the lifter from moving downward. It does take much force because the plastic lifter trays hold the lifters up to some extent. If you look at the pictures of the lifters on this thread you can see the step.
11-28-2008, 04:41 PM
#28
The rids don't go under the lifter, they never contact the roller. They press up against the side of the lifters.
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11-28-2008, 06:58 PM
#30
whut? its not that bad, pssh!
i just pull the engine, i can swap out springs and anything else, plus the cam is not going back in unless i cut in reliefs and degreed and adj. timing chain. theres NO other way i do cam swaps, dot to dot is BS
true, but i wouldnt reuse head gaskets even if they are mls. the mls 6.0 are like 80$ shipped
uh no.. big NO!
even some painted wooden dowels from home depot is way safer method than pen magnets and cheeper
true, but i wouldnt reuse head gaskets even if they are mls. the mls 6.0 are like 80$ shipped
even some painted wooden dowels from home depot is way safer method than pen magnets and cheeper
11-28-2008, 09:09 PM
#32
My point with the mls gaskets, is that they are super easy to remove and then prep the head and deck surface compaired to the old composite gaskets. Add to that the head stds, and not having to clean out head block bolt holes, and pulling the heads is cake.
11-29-2008, 08:15 AM
#34
06-22-2012, 01:07 PM
#36
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Thanks Pictures are worth a thousand words....
Look at this picture of the lifter tray with lifters installed and decide for yourself if you can do it without pulling the heads.
Also, remember the valley is closed. Not enough room to just pull the cam and drop the lifters down.
Look at this picture of the lifter tray with lifters installed and decide for yourself if you can do it without pulling the heads.
Also, remember the valley is closed. Not enough room to just pull the cam and drop the lifters down.
06-22-2012, 01:25 PM
#37
You do NOT have to remove the heads to get the lifters out. You simply remove the cam without putting anything in the block to hold the lifters up. The lifters will fall down on their own after a while. Then you drag them out with a magnet. Problem solved. It can be difficult putting them back in if you use this method to remove them, but he only asked about removing them not putting them back in, right?
06-22-2012, 01:46 PM
#38
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You do NOT have to remove the heads to get the lifters out. You simply remove the cam without putting anything in the block to hold the lifters up. The lifters will fall down on their own after a while. Then you drag them out with a magnet. Problem solved. It can be difficult putting them back in if you use this method to remove them, but he only asked about removing them not putting them back in, right?
Turns out that he found the engine had the rocker arms leave bearings in the oil at 16K at a local dealer, they replaced them all which is why none were missing. They flushed the motor then but obviously it did not get them all. If any damage has happened due to them floating around is impossible to tell without taking the motor apart and to both look for more bearings and damage. So I am at a huge cost to do that or taking a chance there are no more bearings or damage just putting it together now. Not a good choice since the cost is huge. Very tough decision for me regardless of if they should have come out or not.
06-22-2012, 04:31 PM
#39
If you or your mechanic knew anything about the GenIII small block you would realize:IT'S A JOKE!!! YES, THE HEADS DO HAVE TO COME OFF!!! That's NOT a joke. If I found rocker rollers in my engine I'm leaning heavily toward a tear down. Do I trust the full flow 50 micron filter to stop them all. That's a roll of the dice I don't think I'm willing to take. The lifter trays must come out. There is a small bolt in the center of each one that must be removed. Then you lift out the lifter trays. The lifters stick in the trays most of the time. You may have to manually remove some if they slip out of the trays as you remove the trays.
