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Do you really have to pull the heads to change lifters????

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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 07:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
No disredpect but thats why you dont use the pen magnets. The heads break off and then you have a magnet and lifter in the oil pan.
DO a search there is more than one unfortunate person to have that happen. Use the lifter rods homemade or other wise.
Ya no ****. Just get some wooden dowel rods at home depot for $2.xx works like a champ
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 02:41 AM
  #22  
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or just do the russian roullete method if the engine has low miles.done that on my blk one.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 07:25 AM
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I thought using the 16 pen magnet went out years ago when the JPR tool came along. The cost of the JPR tool spawned the idea of the 5/16" dowel rods(wood or steel). I have both the JPR tool and two metal dowel rods(JPR tool works on some engines and the metal dowel works better on others), but I've had nightmares about breaking off a wooden dowel in the engine block. That's why I use the metal dowels instead of wood. When you stop and think about all the work it is to use 16 telescoping magnets compared to 2 metal dowel rods not to mention what would happen if one of the magnets sticks to a lifter it's a no brainer. Considering what can happen using the russian roulette method the cost of 2 metal dowels is a real bargain.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 10:41 AM
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I am all for the dowel method, myself. But, bronze is my flavor. Just don't want to take a chance in nicking a roller.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan Stewart
I am all for the dowel method, myself. But, bronze is my flavor. Just don't want to take a chance in nicking a roller.
Where did you get the bronze rods?
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 03:29 PM
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The rods don't contact roller on the lifter so the type of material isn't all that important unless it's wood which can break off during removal. The rod lodges itself in the step on the side of the lifter. This keeps the lifter from moving downward. It does take much force because the plastic lifter trays hold the lifters up to some extent. If you look at the pictures of the lifters on this thread you can see the step.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Stewart
I am all for the dowel method, myself. But, bronze is my flavor. Just don't want to take a chance in nicking a roller.

I like the aluminum rods as well. I do rent out a cam swap package with the lifter rods and crane dual spring tool, pulley install tool and comp pushrod length checker. I have a puller as well but its the 3 screw kind for aftermarket pulleys.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 04:41 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Dan Stewart
I am all for the dowel method, myself. But, bronze is my flavor. Just don't want to take a chance in nicking a roller.
The rids don't go under the lifter, they never contact the roller. They press up against the side of the lifters.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 05:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DrkPhx
Yes, 100% true. About the only thing in common between a SBC and LS1 is the bore size.
actually the bore and stroke are even different....
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
Yup, I had to do a Lifter swap, pain in the *** too..
whut? its not that bad, pssh!
Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I'd rather pull the heads than pull a cam. To pull the cam, you've got to pull the crank pulley, remove the radiators, it's just a pain in the ***.
i just pull the engine, i can swap out springs and anything else, plus the cam is not going back in unless i cut in reliefs and degreed and adj. timing chain. theres NO other way i do cam swaps, dot to dot is BS

true, but i wouldnt reuse head gaskets even if they are mls. the mls 6.0 are like 80$ shipped

Originally Posted by scottHMT
i think using 16 pen magnets is the way to go if youre just doing a cam. It would be a bad day if a lifter fell, wrenches would be thrown and swear words would be said.
uh no.. big NO!
even some painted wooden dowels from home depot is way safer method than pen magnets and cheeper
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DrkPhx
Yes, 100% true. About the only thing in common between a SBC and LS1 is the bore size.
I think what youy mean to say was bore spacing

ls1 has 3.898 bore,
however ls2,lq4,lq9 have 4.00 bore same as sbc
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 09:09 PM
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My point with the mls gaskets, is that they are super easy to remove and then prep the head and deck surface compaired to the old composite gaskets. Add to that the head stds, and not having to clean out head block bolt holes, and pulling the heads is cake.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 09:11 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
My point with the mls gaskets, is that they are super easy to remove and then prep the head and deck surface compaired to the old composite gaskets. Add to that the head stds, and not having to clean out head block bolt holes, and pulling the heads is cake.
I have to agree. It almost makes it pleasureable...LOL almost
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 08:15 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by massls1guy
Where did you get the bronze rods?
From the machine shop at work. They use various different bronze rods for working on the different equipment in the paper mill I work at.

I wouldn't doubt you couldn't get some through McMaster-Carr.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 04:50 PM
  #35  
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Thank you all for your quick responses, that is why i love this forum.
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 01:07 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Dan Stewart
Pictures are worth a thousand words....

Look at this picture of the lifter tray with lifters installed and decide for yourself if you can do it without pulling the heads.



Also, remember the valley is closed. Not enough room to just pull the cam and drop the lifters down.
I got there AFTER those parts were removed, assume the plastic was there before and the lifters were down inside. He said he tried to extract lifters but could not easily. All second hand with no car nor manual. But the photo is awesome. Thanks much. I will send that to the mechanic and have already asked him to read the shop manuals I left for the car. Someone on another thread already told me that you did have to remove the heads. I will go with your photo and the GM LS1 engineer statement! I have not looked but makes me wonder if it can be run with the plastic not in there making it harder to get them out? It is just really hard with no car or manual to second guess someone right there. But that is why I am using this forum. Much appreciated! Now I can find out if I have bad lifters or not without taking the heads off at the very least. Still wondering if the lifter bearings are much different size than the rocker trunions as I found 5 during an oil change so did the Comp Cam trunion bearing upgrade and no bearings were missing.
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 01:25 PM
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You do NOT have to remove the heads to get the lifters out. You simply remove the cam without putting anything in the block to hold the lifters up. The lifters will fall down on their own after a while. Then you drag them out with a magnet. Problem solved. It can be difficult putting them back in if you use this method to remove them, but he only asked about removing them not putting them back in, right?
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 01:46 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
You do NOT have to remove the heads to get the lifters out. You simply remove the cam without putting anything in the block to hold the lifters up. The lifters will fall down on their own after a while. Then you drag them out with a magnet. Problem solved. It can be difficult putting them back in if you use this method to remove them, but he only asked about removing them not putting them back in, right?
Well I spoke to the mechanic that has the lifter exposed and they did not come out with the trays and he could not get them out otherwise. Some say yes some say no. I saw the photo but that was with heads off. I did not see a way and it is hard to argue with the designer but I am not there and don't have the manual in front of me.

Turns out that he found the engine had the rocker arms leave bearings in the oil at 16K at a local dealer, they replaced them all which is why none were missing. They flushed the motor then but obviously it did not get them all. If any damage has happened due to them floating around is impossible to tell without taking the motor apart and to both look for more bearings and damage. So I am at a huge cost to do that or taking a chance there are no more bearings or damage just putting it together now. Not a good choice since the cost is huge. Very tough decision for me regardless of if they should have come out or not.
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 04:31 PM
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If you or your mechanic knew anything about the GenIII small block you would realize:IT'S A JOKE!!! YES, THE HEADS DO HAVE TO COME OFF!!! That's NOT a joke. If I found rocker rollers in my engine I'm leaning heavily toward a tear down. Do I trust the full flow 50 micron filter to stop them all. That's a roll of the dice I don't think I'm willing to take. The lifter trays must come out. There is a small bolt in the center of each one that must be removed. Then you lift out the lifter trays. The lifters stick in the trays most of the time. You may have to manually remove some if they slip out of the trays as you remove the trays.
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 04:53 PM
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4 year old thread very nice
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