Red or blue loctite?
#22
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
There is an actual torque spec for red and blue loctite...
It varies based on bolt size and thread...
But more or less...40+ ft-lbs should get red
Everything else should get blue...
And only use the green stuff if you never want to get the bolt out again...LOL.
I also like to use the rule...if it rotates. It gets red...
It varies based on bolt size and thread...
But more or less...40+ ft-lbs should get red
Everything else should get blue...
And only use the green stuff if you never want to get the bolt out again...LOL.
I also like to use the rule...if it rotates. It gets red...
#23
Red Loctite ONLY on the Balancer Bolt ALWAYS and the right Trq Spec.
Blue on the Cam gear and Cam retainer plate AS LONG AS you use brake clean in the tapped holes and on threads of the bolts to get the oils off them, Ive seen many times Loctite fail because theres oil on the same surface
ALSO used blue on the Baancer Bolt and had the Balancer come loose on some of our first cam jobs (learned the hard way) now Red ONLY lol
Blue on the Cam gear and Cam retainer plate AS LONG AS you use brake clean in the tapped holes and on threads of the bolts to get the oils off them, Ive seen many times Loctite fail because theres oil on the same surface
ALSO used blue on the Baancer Bolt and had the Balancer come loose on some of our first cam jobs (learned the hard way) now Red ONLY lol
#24
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
Red Loctite ONLY on the Balancer Bolt ALWAYS and the right Trq Spec.
Blue on the Cam gear and Cam retainer plate AS LONG AS you use brake clean in the tapped holes and on threads of the bolts to get the oils off them, Ive seen many times Loctite fail because theres oil on the same surface
ALSO used blue on the Baancer Bolt and had the Balancer come loose on some of our first cam jobs (learned the hard way) now Red ONLY lol
Blue on the Cam gear and Cam retainer plate AS LONG AS you use brake clean in the tapped holes and on threads of the bolts to get the oils off them, Ive seen many times Loctite fail because theres oil on the same surface
ALSO used blue on the Baancer Bolt and had the Balancer come loose on some of our first cam jobs (learned the hard way) now Red ONLY lol
no locktite needed on a stock bolt....already has a small amount of red compound on it, doesnt need extra
if you stretch it properly like the Factory Spec says to, you will never have a problem with it backing out.
seat it with the old bolt......
then its 38ft lbs, and then 140* past that.
a little different story on a non stretch bolt like an ARP, and if you follow their instructions, you wont have an issue with that either
using an impact gun is not putting the Balancer on Correctly....good to get it seated, but that is it...
#25
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
If the threads are steel, I'll use loctite. Blue if stationary, red if it's critical.
In aluminum, I'll install with a drop of oil or use a moly-based lube if it's arp hardware. It becomes way too easy to f*ck up aluminum threads when you add adhesives to the fasteners - especially when the joint is dry and/or the bolt is stainless steel. The adhesives work a little too well in that case. I work with aluminum every day and sometimes it seems if you so much as look at it the wrong way threads gall up or become distorted. I much prefer to install lube to act as a corrosion buffer and rely on proper bolt stretch to keep things together in that situation.
In aluminum, I'll install with a drop of oil or use a moly-based lube if it's arp hardware. It becomes way too easy to f*ck up aluminum threads when you add adhesives to the fasteners - especially when the joint is dry and/or the bolt is stainless steel. The adhesives work a little too well in that case. I work with aluminum every day and sometimes it seems if you so much as look at it the wrong way threads gall up or become distorted. I much prefer to install lube to act as a corrosion buffer and rely on proper bolt stretch to keep things together in that situation.
#26
the stock Balancer Bolt is a Torque to Yield Stretch bolt....
no locktite needed on a stock bolt....already has a small amount of red compound on it, doesnt need extra
if you stretch it properly like the Factory Spec says to, you will never have a problem with it backing out.
seat it with the old bolt......
then its 38ft lbs, and then 140* past that.
a little different story on a non stretch bolt like an ARP, and if you follow their instructions, you wont have an issue with that either
using an impact gun is not putting the Balancer on Correctly....good to get it seated, but that is it...
no locktite needed on a stock bolt....already has a small amount of red compound on it, doesnt need extra
if you stretch it properly like the Factory Spec says to, you will never have a problem with it backing out.
seat it with the old bolt......
then its 38ft lbs, and then 140* past that.
a little different story on a non stretch bolt like an ARP, and if you follow their instructions, you wont have an issue with that either
using an impact gun is not putting the Balancer on Correctly....good to get it seated, but that is it...
Last edited by 1999Firehawkls7; 08-21-2013 at 11:58 AM.