Mike96z

iTrader: (78)

I just got an LQ4 Shortblock and need to determine what yr it is so that I can figure out if the crank reluctor ring will work with my 98 Z28. If anyone knows please let me know so I can see what I have to do before I swap it in.

Thanks
Mike

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

If it has a 58X reluctor it should have a gray crank sensor. A 99 will have steel heads 00-up have aluminum. I believe the earlier engines had a longer butt on the crank to accommodate the 4l80e and the later ones just used a spacer. I don't remember what year they changed the crank, but I'm sure you can find it in a search.

Mike96z

iTrader: (78)

Well im tryna see if it works in my 98, will i just be able to bolt my 241 heads on and go with it?

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

It needs to have the 24X crank with the short back end. You should be able to tell the difference by looking how far it sticks past the rear seal and comparing to the LS1. It's pretty obvious when it has the long crank. If it meets those two criteria it will bolt in the place of the LS1 no problem. I would recommend you drill out the bolt hole for the alternator before you put it in the car. There is a boss on the front of the block were the top alternator bracket bolt attaches that is not drilled on the 6.0 blocks.

Mike96z

iTrader: (78)

Thanks, Ill take that into consideration, is there another option for relocating the alternator rather than getting it drilled?

If I posted a pic would you be able to tell? I think you mean the rear of the engine?

Thanks

djsanchez2

iTrader: (14)

Yeah there is a bracket which relocates the alt. to the passenger side head instead of making you drill another bolt hole into the block

Mike96z

iTrader: (78)

where can i find this bracket? Thanks

djsanchez2

iTrader: (14)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...elocation.html

SynergyV8

iTrader: (1)

On the front engine pad on the pass side you'll see a number that looks something like A145. The letter (A in this case) is the month of the year (A through L = A for January, B for February, C for March ect ect), the 2nd set of numbers is the day of the month (14th day in this case) and the last number is the year (5 for '05 in this case).

B221 would be February 22nd of '01.

G286 would be July 28th of '06.

one more...
L043 would be December 4th of '03.


Get it?

Mike96z

iTrader: (78)

Thanks

TJ

iTrader: (10)

99 was the only year for the long crank.
iirc.

Mike96z

iTrader: (78)

So are you saying any other year will work fine?

SpecV44

iTrader: (7)

Our 2000 has the longer crank. Took us a while to figure it out, grr.

Our research showed 1999, 2000, and part of 2001 had the longer cranks.

Mike96z

iTrader: (78)

L101 so that means it Dec 10, 2001 is the date off the block. I hope this isnt the one with the longer crank or watever that wont work with T-56, I really didnt notice anything different, hopefully the reluctor wheel is the same as LS1 as well, dont wanna have to switch out a crank or wheel. Anyone here have that info?

It didnt stick out past the rear cover at all, was just about flush, anyone got pics of the longer crank vs shorter crank?

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

If it's flush with the rear seal it's the correct crank. The knock sensors will be on the side of the block and not under the intake if it has a 58x reluctor.

Mike96z

iTrader: (78)

Thanks for that info, knock sensors are on top so im good.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

i think only 99 and maybe early 2000 had the long crank.
all 2001+should be short crank.

bigfatls6

iTrader: (34)

I am pretty sure they changed the crank in 2001.