TJ

iTrader: (10)

somehow the wheel was damaged.
im going to put a cloth over the tab and pull it back strait with a pair of pliers then sand the burred edge off of the tab, unless someone else has a better suggestion.
is there ANY doubt at all to run this crank?
im not going through assembly and install with this piece if there isnt any certainty.
thanks.

2001z

iTrader: (32)

was that a new crank?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

You're probably better off replacing that. The tolerance for play in the reluctor is only about .020", so if you feel you can get there, go for it.

Not to mention, whatever bent it may have knocked it off a degree or two in rotation.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

no. it was a used crank i purchased.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

can i send it to eagle to replace just the wheel? it appears to be made onto the crank?

djwimbo

You should be fine trying to straighten it yourself. just be gentle.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

after review, the wheel has to be removeable. sending it off to eagle and having a new one pressed on. dont want to have any issues of it not firing, or mis firing.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

That looks like one of the early Truck Cranks with the Spacer.

That can be straightened out, it does come off.

How did it get damaged?

TJ

iTrader: (10)

early trucks had a long crank without a spacer. later models required a spacer for the 4l80e to mate up.
i need the spacer to run my th350 with a small block converter.
it was damaged not by my doing. you live and learn.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

^^Yea, true. I should have said Truck Spacer, not necessarily from an early model.

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

I read here the truck cranks are not gun drilled like the passenger car counterparts either. Can anybody confirm this?