I think U have been smoking something if you are getting 21 MPG with a 4000 stall convertor. That is pretty good mileage.
ET reduction from long tubes and Hotcam
Headers - make more power everywhere, but it's louder and not as clean
Cam - more power up top in trade for some of your low end grunt
Converter - regain that lost power on the bottom, but kiss your mileage goodbye
Gears - get into your powerband sooner, but more wear and tear on the engine and even worse mileage
The list goes on and on....you get the idea. You can make a car with 2.73's and a stock converter fast, but you better have a lotta cubic inches and/or tons of torque.
96gt4.6 - hope you are getting a converter soon, cuz your buddy is going to be tough to reel in when he hooks it up.
you dont need slicks, id reccomend some MT drag radials or BFG drag radials. slicks are too much for your power level and you want them to spin a little bit off the line as it will result in a faster et. also you dont need a 4000 stall converter for a street car, i'd go 3600 at the most for a street car. Here's my friends setup: 01 camaro ss a4, yank 3600, 1-3/4 LT's to 4 inch to 3'' bullet muffler dumped, transgo shift kit, 3.73 gears. resulted in a 1.8 60ft 12.3 at 111 mph 1/4 mile.
I just ordered M/T drag radials. I talked to yank and they said with my setup a SS4000 would work good plus it gives me some growing room. They told me to expect around 12.3-12.4 @ 107 mph. With a 1.6-1.7 60'. I would be happy with that.
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
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From: Philly
I don't have an aftermarket converter because of the cost of the converter plus install. However, wear and tear isn't a great reason because it's actually easier on parts so long as you're not launching at 3,000 rpm's on drag radials. If you want your rear end to last, get the stock converter out of there and just don't launch at a high rpm. Launch at 2,000 rpm's at the track. It'll be easier than powerbraking at 1,600 rpm's with the stock stall and you'll still see an ET reduction.
Stalled autos are the very reason why 10-bolt's sometimes make it into the 10's on A4's.
Headers - make more power everywhere, but it's louder and not as clean
Cam - more power up top in trade for some of your low end grunt
Converter - regain that lost power on the bottom, but kiss your mileage goodbye
Gears - get into your powerband sooner, but more wear and tear on the engine and even worse mileage
Cam - more power up top in trade for some of your low end grunt
Converter - regain that lost power on the bottom, but kiss your mileage goodbye
Gears - get into your powerband sooner, but more wear and tear on the engine and even worse mileage
....and 2.73 gears. You guys do realize what kind of difference that makes when you start trading power down low to gain up top? Especially without a converter. Most anything you to do a car is about the proper combination of parts, but generally a compromise is involved.
Headers - make more power everywhere, but it's louder and not as clean
Cam - more power up top in trade for some of your low end grunt
Converter - regain that lost power on the bottom, but kiss your mileage goodbye
Gears - get into your powerband sooner, but more wear and tear on the engine and even worse mileage
The list goes on and on....you get the idea. You can make a car with 2.73's and a stock converter fast, but you better have a lotta cubic inches and/or tons of torque.
96gt4.6 - hope you are getting a converter soon, cuz your buddy is going to be tough to reel in when he hooks it up.
Headers - make more power everywhere, but it's louder and not as clean
Cam - more power up top in trade for some of your low end grunt
Converter - regain that lost power on the bottom, but kiss your mileage goodbye
Gears - get into your powerband sooner, but more wear and tear on the engine and even worse mileage
The list goes on and on....you get the idea. You can make a car with 2.73's and a stock converter fast, but you better have a lotta cubic inches and/or tons of torque.
96gt4.6 - hope you are getting a converter soon, cuz your buddy is going to be tough to reel in when he hooks it up.
I must admit though, the 2.73's make for one hell of a mean street car. I'm pretty much the only Fbody I know with my mods around here that can race with Hankook 245 radials in 15deg. weather and not have a peeling problem off the line at all.
But, i'd gladly trade that for a .8 or better reduction in E.T. at the strip.
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But thank you for pointing out the compromise for everyone to see. I still manage 28 mpg on the highway on extended trips. I'm not saying I get that every time I leave the drive way, but until my wife got her honda, my LS1 got the best mileage of any car we owned.
To each his own....
You say not to brake stall or it will break the rear. Have u ever had a stall? Even if you punch it off idle it will flash to 3500 or so and still hit the tires hard. I guess I didn't understand that one. This will be my third stalled vehicle. My other two were truck with 12 bolt rears.
good idea going with the higher stall before putting in the cam.... i had a hotcam/LT's installed years ago with the stock stall, and it was a turd off the line.
Any sort of cam you put in later on will NEED the stall to get into the cam's powerband.
Any sort of cam you put in later on will NEED the stall to get into the cam's powerband.
You say not to brake stall or it will break the rear. Have u ever had a stall? Even if you punch it off idle it will flash to 3500 or so and still hit the tires hard. I guess I didn't understand that one. This will be my third stalled vehicle. My other two were truck with 12 bolt rears.
BTW with my PT4000 and 3.73s I still get decent mileage. 14-15 in town with some fun time
and about 25 on the highway.Oh and every single one of my 60's was 1.7 BEFORE the headers/ory/tune. I'm excited to see what the car can do now
. I did some LCA relocation brackets too. The tune really helped my car.. it was doing 12.7s before the headers/!cats and untuned, so I expect to see 12.2s or so. I'm planning on the cam before the first TT though.. we'll see.Stall/gears is definitely the way to do it. My car killed a lot higher hp cars at the track and in town. You noticed Al's car ran the same ETs with 5mph more after his cam. 2.73s with a stock converter + cam = blow
It will be badass stalled/geared You can ride/drive in my car on Sat when I come down for the meeting and see if you like the 4k stall
Ya I will have to ride in your car. Although the SS series converters are a little tighter then yours but it should feel similar. I hope you don't get a cam before first t&t. Cause with my stall and cutout and little tuning tweeks I think you and I would be a fender race. I am going for a 12.3 or so. Especially in the better air in March. It will be fun anyway. I am glad to see you finally got a tune. I'm sure trying to launch at 4000 with T.M. and abuse mode killed you. You should be 1.60-1.65 60' right there with me. Although i will have better tires. lol Later
U guys better quit picking on my 'ole 2.73's
C'mon, isn't it good to shift 1-2 at 58MPH? Or shift to 3rd 2ft before the stripe?
Thank god i'm putting in the 3.73's............
C'mon, isn't it good to shift 1-2 at 58MPH? Or shift to 3rd 2ft before the stripe?
Thank god i'm putting in the 3.73's............
Last edited by 96gt4.6; Jan 7, 2009 at 05:27 PM.
Lol. There is something about watching a stock Z28 rocket away from me and spend the rest of the race playing catch up, but running out of track and seeing the damn win light on the opposite side......
The stall, and March can't come soon enough
The stall, and March can't come soon enough
