jarednut4ever

iTrader: (14)

Well like I said I have a buddy that installed a tsp224r cam and it is a real turd I beat him so bad to 50 mph it takes him to 1/4 mile to catch me and even then his time is .1 better then mine. same mods except he has cam.

jarednut4ever

iTrader: (14)

Like I said my friend has a tsp224r and he only beats me by .1 and we have the same mods. He lost a lot of power from idle - 3500. I don't want that to happen and from what i hear the hotcam is pretty good off idle

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

get a converter with a lower str ratio and it will hit a bit softer and more progressive off the line helping you with traction on the street tires and giving you the mile per hour you are looking for.

jarednut4ever

iTrader: (14)

But with a converter I will have to replace the flexplate right

jarednut4ever

iTrader: (14)

And if I got a converter it would be a SS4000. So you guys really think that a converter and headers I will be a mid lower 12 with slicks. If that is the case I might go that route.
I run a 2.06 60' right now, so with traction and a 4000 stall I could probably see 1.60-1.7 60'.

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

So niether of you have a stall? Your both short .5-.6 in the 1/4. If you think the hot cam is going to do better for you than a 224, and don't want a stall do it. But the first guy who pulls up next to you at the track with a cat back and lid with a stall and has his first ls1 cam kill it will be on your ***. A stall is the BEST thing you can do to your A4 for a better ET as you asked.

jarednut4ever

iTrader: (14)

So you say around .5-.6 but when I called Yank last month they told me I should gain almost a full second if traction is there.

99_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Just do the headers, stall and get some nittos that will get you mid 12's. Dont worry about the rear with a A4.

dannyz

With mod's in my sig I ran a 12.62 at 109 with a 1.77 60'.
That's with 2.73 gear's.
So, yeah, I would think with good dr's, correct air pressure and maybe with the removal of the front sway bar 1.6's are possible.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

i would believe yank.

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

I would too it was a guess from a M6 guy that lives at a DA of +7000 so up here .6 is close.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Your friend added a cam without a converter. These cars responds so well to a converter with even the stock cam, that is the problem with his car. If you both add the same stall, he'll gain a whole lot more than you and clean your clock.



All cams are going to lose power on the low end when compared to the stocker. That is the reason why you match a cam and converter in the first place. Do yourself a favor and listen to the the good advice being given here and do the converter first, cam later.

Mazzenger

iTrader: (5)

If you add longtubes and a hotcam and then go to the track i bet the small amount of et drop the higher trap would probably be attributed to the headers.
In auto's the converter is "fists" that give the cam the clobbering power.

You can always get a soft hit converter with a lower str. I used to run a converter with a 1.61 str.
It worked great. It would still break the tires loose, but did have that excessive punch. I do however prefer my ss4000 over it!

By the way with long tubes I was running 13.2 @ 105.
I added a 221/221 cam on 112 still ran a 13.2 @ 105. Bogged down low. (was tuned too)
Added just a 3500 stall and went 12.5s' @ 109. on street tires.

ss1129

iTrader: (16)

If your worried about breaking **** then you really shouldnt mod your car at all....or for that matter race it.

With that said, go with a 3500ish stall and a cam. The hotcam sounds nastier than its bite though, so beware of that. Drivability wont really be affected as much as you might think a 3500 stall would.

omcar

iTrader: (10)

Ok Ok stop reading everything and check my sig..no cam.. no headers..get a Vigilante or Yank 3,600 stall with some traction stuff, ie adjustable torque arm, lower control arms, adj shocks and M/T drag radials..have fun!
Launch at 2,000 and your rear should be fine. If not, beef it up with an Eaton posi.

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

^ x2..for what you want i wouldnt waste the time/money installing a hotcam(weaksauce, imo). Do the LTs, stall, and any other boltons that you dont already have. youll be able to get into the low 12s easily.

ramair21

iTrader: (2)

I have a stock 00 ls1 motor with a 3500 stall and 3.42 in rear with a good tune and i run a 1.7 60' and finished with 12.9@104mph. Remember the motor is stock, no headers, cam, I still have the factory cats on my car. And even a 10bolt with no issues at all.

A quote from my dad

" If your going to do something, do the JUNK right!!"

You know what he is right. GET ER DONE!!

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

No!!!!

But a 24-30,00lb cooler is a must and a shift kit will keep your shifts from feeling spongy but is not mandatory.

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Aw come on now, you callin' my 2.11 to your 2.0 60' a turd? The 1/8th mile is where you kill me, but I more than make up for it past 1/8th. Don't forget I have 2.73's.

Ls1Rx-7

iTrader: (4)

The "hotcam" is not very "HOT" its rather cold, and it was designed 9 years ago. like computers cams become outdated with age as there are many many superior cams out there then the hotcam.... now i have a friend that has about 50 passes on the stock rear end running low 12's without a cam just a yank 3600 converter and 3.73 gears and bolt ons. now i wouldn't worry about your rear end so much at these low power levels. the reason you beat ur friends car is cause he is running 2.73's which slow the car down a great deal, and make it hard to compare his car to yours. go with a tried and true 224/224 on 112lsa or go talk to Patrick G who is a cam guru and will set you up with a perfect cam to match your setup.