I'm interested in attending some open road racing track days at Miller Motor Sports park here in Utah this summer and want my motor to be as reliable as possible. I'm still planning on the majority of the driving being done on the street so i guess this would be a max effort street motor with the ability to be reliable for an entire season of heavy but mindful 6800 rpm shifts at the track for 20 minutes at a time.

Current setup-
-2000 F-body bottom end
-Ported polished 243 heads, Just bought them locally from a buddy that had them on his L92 427 C5 stroker for $700, (forgot the springs brand, starts with an "H", dual, good for .650 lift, 400+ lbs ), 10* locks, ti retainers, Stainless 2.02 1.60 valves, Flow 310 CFM
-Comp Lifters
-G5X2 Cam 232/240 .595''/.609'' 114 LSA
-Haven't installed the heads yet so i'm not sure if i'll be re-using the comp 7.400's
-Arp head studs
-Victor Jr. Ported and matched to the 243's
-Ported, shimmed LS6 oil pump
-Custom 1 3/4 LT true dual headers

Need to buy some rockers, maybe 1.8's, suggestions?

Still deciding on which 4 bbl TB i should get...

I'm thinking an external oil cooler with a fan with dual filters and thermostat

Will I need a different oil pan with baffle's?

The car is a 1990 Porsche 911 with the motor still in the rear and the Ron Davis radiator in the front with a Meziere EWP taking care of the cooling.

My question is will my bottom end be reliable for heavy but mindful use shifting at 6600-6850 rpm for an entire 20 min open track session 5 times a day once a month 6-8 times this season?

I can't afford a forged rebuild quite yet so i'm hoping for a reliable full season of once a month track days. Possible?

Thanks Guys, Russell

 

Pistons are flycut

 

i think your whole setup looks like it will do fine EXCEPT the horrible victor Jr intake manifold and the cam. In road racing you want the most AVERAGE hp and the victor jr will make your power band so peaky it will look like a 4cyl (well not that bad but still). that matched up with the g5x2 (also known to be a peaky cam) would definitely not be optimal for anything but drag racing. If i were you i would change the cam to the El Torro a 230/230 cam designed by Predator-Z this cam has the most average hp of any that ive seen yett, and with a FAST 92/92 intake setup you should easily be over 420rwhp/400ftlbs. And with those 2 additions you are guaranteed to be faster and you wont have to run the engine at such high rpm so it will be less stressful on the motor and you will go faster.

 

You're talking carb set up right? Didn't quite understand whether carb or EFI.

Anyway, yes, on the oil cooler. If power steering, then PS cooler. Yes, on bottom end reliability. No, on different oil pan. Yes, a pre-oiler is a good idea or an over filled oil pan. Yes, use racing weight oil for the high oil temps you will see even with the cooler. Agreed w/ above, NO on the big worthless cam. Same for the 1.8 rockers, even if you go to the 230/230 cam. 1.8's benefit stock or mild cams due to increased valve lift on mild ramp rates. 1.8's can reduce power & can be detrimental to valve train when used in the wrong application. You'll want a minimum of a 700 CFM carb & that's probably too small. I'd go bigger if carbed. Remeber, approximately 2.5 runners are filling @ any time. So, if your heads move 290 CFM @ .058" (for example), then the carb & intake need to move 290 CFM x 2.5 = 725 CFM without added restriction. If EFI, I would preffer LS6 w/ 90mm inlet mod over a FAST for road course & street.

 

It's EFI. It says in the first post: Still deciding on which 4 bbl TB i should get. With a 4150 style TB on top it will really help with the overall flow of the intake manifold. Ideally, I'd go with a posted FAST 92 and 92mm TB, but that's a super expensive setup. The one thing that you'll really want to consider is upgrading the rod bolts to something like the ARPs or Katechs. Katech is running a 20% off sale right now so I would opt for those. They'll really help with higher RPM longevity.

 

Yep EFI.
I'm sure you're right that this is not the optimum setup for road racing but it'll work till I stroke/pro/or turbo the motor, but in contrast i'm fairly confident i'll be around or over 450 rwhp with the new setup and the extra 30+ rwhp will be a welcome benefit on the street. For now i'd like to keep the bottom end together as long as possible and by next winter it'll be FI.
For now i'm concerned about the reliability of the bottom end.

I was warned against installing arp rod bolts on stock rods due to "ovaling" the bearings...?

Any parts suggestions are welcome for my road racing application and i appreciate the reply's.

Any bad experiences with bbk's 4 bbl TB? I've heard their intakes blow

Thanks, Russell

 

You should opt for some katech rod bolts, they are a direct swap for the stock ones. Just take the oil pan off and change them one at a time. I'm going with katech's when i do my cam/ head swap, because I plan on road racing and autocrossing this year.

 

My advice to you: Dont spin the motor any higher than 6k. You said its a street car and on a road course you wont see enough gain lap time wise to justify spinning the extra 800rpm. If you still want to get higher get an accusump.

 

Good advice. I am going to throw another $.02 in and recommend you not put 1.8 rockers on that cam.

 

I like the accusump a lot! The Katech bolts don't seem like a bad idea either. Thanks guys keep it coming.

 

LS1 in a 911 huh? If you have an F-body pan there may be additional oiling complications on account of the engine facing backwards. The sump of the F-body pan would be towards the front in your car, opposite the end it was designed for. A GTO pan would probably be the better pan for that application even though it too would be facing backwards - at least the sump would be back in the rear where the oil tends to collect under sustained acceleration.

An accusump is a good idea in either case, but probably more so with the "front" sump F-body pan.

 

My buddy and customer Danny Popp has been running a ERL prepped block in his Vette. The aluminum block expands with heat-meaning the cam housing bore opens up and the cam bearings can become loose. The lifter bores also expand...which results in low oili pressure. Cam bearings are pinned and the lifter bores are bushed by ERL as remedies. Danny also switched to drysump this year. I can't overemphasize the amount of oil cooling capacity you'll need...it's literally block coolant.

 

You absolutely need a timing chain damper and a good harmonic damper (pulley) or you could face broken timing chains. You will be running through the harmonic danger zone a lot and these precautions, in my opinion, are essential.

 

Also very good advice. I wouldn't look to anyone else but ATI for this.

 

All sounds good to me and the damper definitely makes sense. I'm getting more interested in the Accusump.

Also, if i change to a different oil pan, which would you suggest? GM? Aftermarket? I'd like to get the most oil capacity possible, and there is no k member (?) in the way so ANY pan will work.

I'm looking at getting the largest oil cooler (with fan and thermostat) i can fit in the wing like the factory Porsche intercoolers since the Ron Davis radiator is in the front, i have the room.

I appreciate any feedback

 

was looking into this pan for my swap since i plan on autox/drift

http://www.sikky.com/products/mount_...mounts/s13_ls1

sorry to thread jack also but I tried searching and cant find a definite answer. I have a 98 LS1 and a 99 LS1 I read somewhere the 97/98 motors dont have the extra oiling passages as 99 and newer...Is this true, if it is how big of a downfall would this be for road course, or any non straight line driving for that matter.

 

I would consider a oil catch can install, i would say VERY necessary when tracking a car.
Also, what up from a local!!

 

I agree on the catch can, and would recommend this one for road racing, the DC3:

http://www.saikoumichi.com/product_line.html

And here's a good discussion on catch cans:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ging-down.html

 

I sell Ron Davis heat extractors that would work great for you. 7, 14 or dual 14 plate extractor would handle it. You can mount it where you want it doesn't need air flow. They are used in this and PS cooling applications all the time as well as rear end.. etc.


Also if your really going to keep the rpm's at 5800+ sustained for 45 minutes you might want to look at the valvetrain better. Not sure what comp lifters your using but that would be where I would put the most research.

Guys like cstraub can tell you about lifters and high spring pressures and all that good stuff that really comes into play with sustained hi rpms.

As well as echoing the oiling situation