Timing chain failure
Timing chain failure Guys, this was a hard lesson to run. I have a CTSV with cnc trickflows and boy did I mess this up bad. I was running a 236/240 605/610 cam and did not change the timing chain. I know, you can save the remarks about how stupid that might have been. Don't crash me to bad, having to get the engine torn apart and replace the bent parts is enough ridicule. I sort of got lucky though, I only have to replace 6 valves. The pistons, push rods, and the rest of the valve train along with the rotating assembly is OK. I got lucky and the timing chain broke at only 3000 rpms. As stupid as I look, I thought I would share this to help somebody not make the same mistake that I did. Of course it will be replaced with a damn good double roller when it is put back together. Just thought I would share this to help anyone who wants to read it.
damn man that really sucks sorry to hear that.. Atleast you seem like you got really lucky, that could have cost a lot more money. i always worried about that so i decided to swap mine out when i put a cam in for the cheap insurance.
I know, hind site is 20/20. But, with these new lobes that we are using, I would include a high quality timing change with almost any cam swap. I found out the hard way that these fancy cams we run will obviously put more stress on a stock one than it can stand.
Yes, I do have an uderdrive pulley. I bought every bolton that I could, trying to reach 500RWHP. I only made it to 491. It is a great running car, I just messed up and left one important peice of the puzzle out.
If it winds up being a single roller, that is the only one I would use. Or, it will be a high quality double roller. I can promise you, that this is not a mistake that I will make twice.
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
If you want THE BEST single roller chain it’s the Cloyes 9-194 IRL chain. Second best and much cheaper chain is the Katech/JWIS HME-G68V-2.
I'm curios what under drive pulley you were running? Here's a thread that's an excellent read concerning broken timing chains, crank dampers, and timing chain dampers. If your running an ASP under drive, that's most likely the root cause of the broken timing chain.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...n-failure.html
I'm curios what under drive pulley you were running? Here's a thread that's an excellent read concerning broken timing chains, crank dampers, and timing chain dampers. If your running an ASP under drive, that's most likely the root cause of the broken timing chain.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...n-failure.html
Might just have been the original chain breaking. I've read some recent threads about chain failures.
Here's a thread w/broken chain, post #57 talks about problems with a specific UDP/balancer:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post10691411
There are also threads that talk about chain failure at low rpms and how a chain damper can prevent the problem. Newer LSx blocks have dampers, the LS1 does not. I don't know what block is in your CTSV, maybe you already have one.
edit: sorry to post right on top of yours 405hp_z06, at least I was quoting you
Here's a thread w/broken chain, post #57 talks about problems with a specific UDP/balancer:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post10691411
There are also threads that talk about chain failure at low rpms and how a chain damper can prevent the problem. Newer LSx blocks have dampers, the LS1 does not. I don't know what block is in your CTSV, maybe you already have one.
edit: sorry to post right on top of yours 405hp_z06, at least I was quoting you
I am 98% sure it is the ASP underdrive pulley. Vengeance racing put the heads on, I think that is what they were selling at the time, May of 2008. Tell me more about it. Do I need to go in a different direction with the pulley? Thanks
The bottom line is the following:
Timing chain: Cloyes 9-194 or Katech/JWIS
Timing chain damper: Run which ever fits your block, there are 3 different ones
Crank damper: ATI 10% under drive or stock damper in good condition
I'll almost guarantee this: if you continue to run the ASP 'pulley' this won't be the last broken timing chain you will deal with.
I have read the thread, thanks. I am going back to a new stock one. With the money I have spent on this engine with the intake, heads, CAI and full exhaust, less than 10 horsepower is not worth another timing chain failure to me. I am going to run a stock one and a double roller. I don't want to repeat this again.
I have read the thread, thanks. I am going back to a new stock one. With the money I have spent on this engine with the intake, heads, CAI and full exhaust, less than 10 horsepower is not worth another timing chain failure to me. I am going to run a stock one and a double roller. I don't want to repeat this again.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
^ Sounds like solid info. I was torn between the two... now i think i know what one to get. I assume aluminum is better than steel because of the weight-less rotational mass.
Would the same apply to all 25% UD pulleys or is there more involved including the mass? I know my 25% from Summit is heavier than the stocker.