I was thinking about buying this cam. I originally was thinking about getting a smaller cam so that my *** didn't get left on the street by a stock cam LS1. I was thinking that this cam wouldn't be too terribly for street manners though. Don't wanna make the mistake of going to small the first time.

Although I will be checking PTV clearance when I install the cam I was wondering if you guys have any idea on what it would be on a stock LS1 so I know what I'm getting myself into. Do you think I'd have to flycut?

Any input on this cam in general would be nice. Will be doing Patriot duel gold springs, LS7 lifters, LS7 lifter trays, LS6 aftermarket oil pump. Gotta pick up a good timing chain within the next couple weeks also..

BTW my goals are 430ish with ported heads, either my stock heads or might buy some ported 243's or 5.3's if I find a good deal. I have ls6 IM, ported TB, LT 1 3/4 headers, ORY, TR6 plugs, MSD wires, built tranny (700rwt), Will be upgrading injectors to 36lb. The weak links are the LS7 clutch and stock 10 bolt although I'm looking for a new rear now..This is through an M6 obviously.

This is a mostly street car, will see the track maybe 2 times a year...I have a NX MAF kit which I'm gonna use the 100 pills..

Cam specs:
Texas Speed Torquer V.3 Camshaft - 231/234 .643"/.598" 111 LSA

 

Nobody? Think I will have to flycut the pistons with this cam?

 

You'll clear just fine no mill on 243's. Valve size will determine gasket thickness I think. On big valved 5'3s you will have to run MLS .054's to be safe.LSA and advance on the cam you choose will also be a factor.....

LS2 lifter trays will work but not LS7.

 

That's what I thought accept why wont the LS7 lifter trays work? Dif block?

 

The cam I'm buying doesn't any advance on the cam and will be retarding a bit for n20.

 

................?

 

is she a daily driver? if your on the bottle i would put it on a higher lsa but im no cam guru.

 

i think tsp put +4 advanced in the torquer v3 i could be wrong though so dont quote me on that best bet would be call tsp and talk with them there great people to deal with and im getting the same cam you want

 

Should clear ok. Just DON'T mill the heads. Nice cam profile also.

 

google that cam . . . there's plenty of reviews with the stock 241 heads and they're putting down great numbers

 

Car is a dailly driver. I'll have to double check the advance ground in. Thanx for all the replies so far. It's getting close to go time. Just need to pick up a set up heads, timing chain, ported ls6 oil pump, gasket kit.

 

Cam should definately work nice for you!!

 

Ok guys, ended up going with a 232/236 .598/.598 113lsa. Figured it would be a little better for N20 and better on the springs.

It should be installed by next week.

Assotiated parts:
Patriot duel gold valve springs, titanium retainers, #7 locks.
Comp high tech pushrods.
TSP ported/shimmed LS6 oil pump.
Rollmaster duel timing chain.

I need to order the pulley. I'm thinking SLP or Powerbond. I'm not sure which though.

If I break 400rwhp I will be happy. Shooting for 420 as others have done it with my setup with the same cam. Although I'm not getting my hopes up, as it's just a number. As long as I break 11s at the track I will be very happy.

I put down 336/349 yesterday with more to tune but there was no point as I'm putting the cam in so soon.

Do ya'll aggree that my goals are achievable?

 

Did you say you were going to get a gasket set? what's all included in this, just curious..

I've seen plenty of cars get 400 as much as i read on here. If you are an M6, it will be much easier. If everything is running right, i say you'll get it no problem

 

good luck and let us know the numbers when you get it done

 

You don't retard a cam for nitrous, you advance. Because nitrous speeds combustion, you need to open the exhaust valve earlier to reduce pumping losses. Retarding the cam opens the exhaust valve later...the exact opposite of what you want to do.

 

I know your the **** and have read many of your threads, I trust your statement. So let me try to grasp this. I thought you want to run about 5* less when you run 100 shot or more of nitrous? I think I'm around 25* now with stock cam. So I would want to advance the timing if I'm running nitrous?

I do know you want a larger exhaust duration that way you move exhaust so that makes sense to me if that's all the timing is doing. I mean I knew it was for valve timing basically so you can control the overlap right? I just had heard you always retard and run colder plugs on n2o?

 

Well I was planning on doing the job myself and doing heads at the same time but I changed my mind and opted to pay g-force to do it because I live in an apt. and the place I was going to do it at didn't get back to me and I didn't want to bother them. So the gasket kit was for the heads.

The guys at g-force are the **** and I've seen alot of cars come in and out of there shop everytime I'm there and see them on the dyno. With everything that the car will have done I think it will put down some good trap times.

Went out and got some nitto555r's today and those basterds hook. Just had to do a couple small burn outs to get the coating they came with off and I was very happy. I had brand new yokohoma tires on and they would just roast in 1st and 2nd. Not with these.

I'm just waiting for the oil pump and the powerbond pulley I ordered to come in the mail...I got the powerbond pulley, arp bolt and belts for 225 plus shipping. I thought that was pretty good.

Total mods will be: (until I pull the heads later and until rear breaks )

Cam: 232/236 .598/.598 113LSA (assotiated parts listed above)
Pacesetter LT's ORY and I'm cutting the flowmaster off and running straight pipes.
Powerbond UD pulley
SLP lid. (I'm gonna space it as much as I can without rubbing the hood and also seal the lid)
New LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel
MSD wires/NGK 55's (unless I change the plugs for my n2o kit TR6's)
LS6 IM/stock TB (they said not to worry about a ported TB)
160* thermostate(not really a mod but was modified, lol)
Nitto 555r's
Pro 5.0 power tower shifter
Tuned..obviously

Downside...No suspension mods.

Will be disconnecting from sway bar but not removing. Will try to reduce as much weight as possibly. Not running AC belt but not removing pump.

Anything else you can think of guys before I run it with new mods?

 

not to step on anybody's toes but i'll give you an answer. cam timing and ignition timing are two different things. cam timing alters the desired valve events, ignition timing is when and how long the coils send spark to the plug. you run less ignition timing on spray, and generally more exhaust duration. the -5 degrees your refering to is ignition timing, the advance that Pat-G is talking about is cam timing. hope this helps

 

Deff not stepping on any toes that I see. That is the perfect answer. That's the words I was looking for...valve events...

So when you have advance in the came that has nothing to do with the advance on ignition when tuning? So what does that -5* do for the nitrous by sending less spark? more matter in the combustion chamber = higher compression = less spark needed or something? I'm gonna go read some more...try to better understand.