Pushrods too short = misfire?
I am nearing the end of things to check. Checked for continuity on the injector wiring and coil wiring and all was fine. Still not convinced that my home-done plug wires aren't the problem. The misfires seem to be moving though? Freaking weird? Last night only #4, today #4 and #5. Sheesh, what a PITA
BUT ... for simplicity, since its so easy for you to pull a valve cover (I'm jealous, BTW) see how much lifter preload you have. If it's next to nothing, you probably found your knock

Also, when watching misfires on a scanner you'll often see the effect of one cylinder misfiring affect the next hole in the firing order. So, if #5 is dead, you'll see misfire counts on #4 too since its next in the firing order. The PCM sees the crank hasn't fully accelerated back to what it was on all the other cylinders, so it adds counts to #4 as well -- just not as many as #5. Make sense?
I installed some stock pushrods just out of curiosity. I don't know all those gorey details about the cam. Just know what is on the card. It is a Comp XE-R grind 232/234 .595/.598 112.
So if i tighten the rockers to the point where the pushrod won't turn, then add 1/4 - 1/2 turn, I should be at 22ftlbs? I will try this with the 7.350" pushrods and see what happens. If it is excessive, I guess I need 7.4"s.
I installed some stock pushrods just out of curiosity. I don't know all those gorey details about the cam. Just know what is on the card. It is a Comp XE-R grind 232/234 .595/.598 112.
So if i tighten the rockers to the point where the pushrod won't turn, then add 1/4 - 1/2 turn, I should be at 22ftlbs? I will try this with the 7.350" pushrods and see what happens. If it is excessive, I guess I need 7.4"s.
Trending Topics
with your cam and unmilled heads, you need the stock 7.40" rods.
As far as checking preload, just look at this:
__________________________________________________ _______
CHECKING LIFTER PRELOAD
Turning the engine, bring one of the cylinders to TDC. The valves will be fully closed.
Now, fully loosen one of the rocker arm bolts on that cyl.
Then start turning the rocker arm bolt down until the lifter is at "zero lash". You will be able to tell it is at zero lash when the rocker bolt gets very hard to turn. It gets hard to turn because the valve spring starts to compress. Again, stop turning the bolt as soon as you feel resistance to turning.
Mark the bolt with a marker.
Now count how many turns it takes to completely tighten the rocker bolt to 22 FT/LB.
The bolt should have turned between 1 3/4 to 2 turns for the acceptable GM lifter peload.
If you don't get the 1 3/4 to 2 bolt turns of preload, you need a different length pushrod. (IE: you need a shorter rod if it takes much more than 2 turns, and a longer rod if it takes much less than 1 3/4 turns).
I really think anywhere between 1 to 2 turns is acceptable. Remember, hyd. lifters can operate within a fairly large margin of preload as long as it's not excessive.
NOTE: You really only need to do this on one cylinder. The rest will be the same.
NOTE: If you have aftermarket Comp Cams “Type R” lifters, I understand that those like less preload than stock lifters. Instead of 1 3/4 to 2 full turns as indicated above, about 1/2 to 1 turn may be more acceptable.
NOTE: Allways run the engine prior to checking the preload so as to get the lifters pumped up. This is important if you just installed new lifters or had the old ones out while installing a new cam.
Ron,
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
BTW, Your cam has about a .030" smaller cam centerline to lobe heel distance than your stock cam. That would mean that you really would need .030" longer pushrods than stock, however, the hardened 7.40" rods are actually .015" longer than the stock rods already. (the stock rods are actually 7.385") The 7.40" hardened rods are actually 7.40" long.
So, use these rods and you will only has .015" less preload than a bone stock engine. In actuality, having only .015" less preload will allow the engine to spin a little faster before the lifters start to pump up.
You will still have lots of preload, so don't worry.

Ron,
__________________________________________________ _______
How do you know he has aftermarket lifters?
As for stock lifters; It's 1 3/4 to 2 turns from zero preload until the bolts are fully tightened (we have seen this on 2 separate bone stock engines.
He can check everyone of them if he wants, but I don't think he will find much variation between any of them. All these cam lobes are all ground the same from cyl to cyl, and the pushrods all measure out to within about .002" if you mic each one of them.

Good luck,
Ron (30 days from RETIREMENT)
P.S. Your car is realllly lookin good!
QUOTE: "Correct preload for after market lifters is more like 1/4 to 1/2 turn".
__________________________________________________ _______
Is this correct with the Comp and Crane stock replacement lifters? Or are you talking about the Comp R's only, with that statement??
Dan
We do the same preload on both comp r and crane lifters. Both are quiet when set up correctly.
We do the same preload on both comp r and crane lifters. Both are quiet when set up correctly.
Thanks! I was wondering cause I'm running .010-.020" of preload on my Comp OEM lifters and didn't know if that was to little or not. I was told from others to use .035-.050"...
Dan
Dan


