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HELP!!! need help cam swap problem!

Old Feb 18, 2009 | 04:19 PM
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Default HELP!!! need help cam swap problem!

I just started doin my cam swap and I decided to try to use the Russian roulette method the one where you spin the cam and the lifters stay up while I was trying to take the cam out I heard a lifter fall and wasn't sure what it was until I heard it fall into the oil pan now I don't know what to do... I don't have the equipment to pull the entire engine and really don't wana pay sum one to do it what do I do?!!
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 04:21 PM
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LOL. You're going to have to get the pan off. Should've used some dowel rods in the holes beside the cam retainer plate to hold them up.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 04:27 PM
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Ouch!!! Yep gonna have to pull the pan.

For future reference
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-cam-swap.html
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 04:35 PM
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ouch is right! sucks man pull the pan and use the right methods next time.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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LOL Im in the same situation!

Its actually on top of the windage tray, you have to raise the car then lower the Kmember a few inches then unbolt the oil pan, then the windage tray.
Hope this helps cause its pretty much the same thing, exept your not gonna change the rod-bolts.....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-write-up.html
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 05:49 PM
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If you drop your k-member enough, not all the way but just loosen the bolts and drop it an inch or so that should provide enough room to allow you to get the pan out.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 08:00 AM
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Thanks guys I've just decide to pull the entire engine and do sum work I had wanted to do like put new rod bolts and new rings in the bottom end any one know what's the next weakest link after the rod bolts?
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 10:44 AM
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The 10 bolt rearend.

Originally Posted by 02anti_vnm
any one know what's the next weakest link after the rod bolts?
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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No I mean internally I already know the rear end that's in the process of being changed but I'm looking at spraying a 200 shot and wanted make sure it would take it
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 11:25 AM
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That sucks.

Not trying to be a dick but why did you do it the roulette method? Specially when you don't have the equipment to pull the engine? I guess live and learn, this should be a nice lesson to read up before doing mods When this can be avoided for $2.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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lol...I was just being sarcastic. Rod bolts are a weak link but most everything else in the engine holds up pretty well, even the stock rockers. Though they have been known to puke their bearings from time to time. They can be sent out to Harland Sharp for an upgrade. Worth IMO. Mine should be coming in any now.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 11:31 AM
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i've done close to 10 cam swaps with the roulette method and never had any issues. guess its just bad luck for you. Also, you do realize you have to pull the head to reinstall the lifter
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 02:45 PM
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^ yeah that's guna suck that's y I decided to just go ahead and drop the whole engine. I wish I hadn't done that method now but I'm looking on the bright side now I get to build it more!!! Lol but the bottom end should be able to take a 200 with new rod bolts correct?
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