After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB)
10-16-2003, 12:15 PM
#22
TECH Senior Member
Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB) So far it's only been spotted in Autozone in the US, but not every location has it (some still have old stock of the US made 0w30 only)
In Canada I've gotten it at both Walmart and Canadian Tire. It's cheaper than M1 up here (except when M1 has the special 5L jugs)
In Canada I've gotten it at both Walmart and Canadian Tire. It's cheaper than M1 up here (except when M1 has the special 5L jugs)
10-17-2003, 01:23 AM
#23
Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB) So what's with the "German" made Castrol? How would we know if that is what we are getting?
Is Pennz even considered a good oil?
Is Pennz even considered a good oil?
10-17-2003, 04:26 AM
#24
TECH Senior Member
Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB) Pennzoil is one of the better conventional oils yes, so is Chevron Supreme and GTX.
German made Castrol comes in the new style Syntec label, with the 0w30 part in red, and on the back of the bottle it says Made in Germany.
German made Castrol comes in the new style Syntec label, with the 0w30 part in red, and on the back of the bottle it says Made in Germany.
10-17-2003, 05:44 AM
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Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB)
Although I only use about 1/4 qt in between the 4,000 mile oil change intervals, I am going to now start using regular dyno oil again as recommended by GM for LS1 engines as per there TSB for piston slap (even though I don't have piston slap myself).
I can't see any benifit from the high priced Mobil 1.
I can't see any benifit from the high priced Mobil 1.
Yeah, Right..... I guess I could see how using crappy oil could help with the 'piston slap' issues.
When something else fails as a result of using cheap *** dino oil, You will forget all about the piston slap thing!
You are a brave man to take such a high dollar engine and use 'econo' oil in it... Sorry if this seems harsh, I personally DO NOT believe everything GM tells me. With GM (or some other car manufacturers for that matter...) it is ALL about the money, and them keeping as much as they can!
> GM Service
10-17-2003, 06:38 AM
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Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB) I am currently running the Mobil 0W40 Syn. right now,1500 miles, 2 track days and its still dead on the full mark! Of course my 02 did not use much if any oil with Mobil 1030 Syn either. I put the 0W40 in at the begining of summer.
10-17-2003, 01:23 PM
#27
10-17-2003, 03:34 PM
#28
TECH Senior Member
Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB) John, both Redline and Amsoil make excellent synthetic 10w40s. Both of those oils will maintain their viscosity very well since they use very little viscosity index improvers in them. In conventional oils, you'll never find a 10w40 which will hold it's viscosity, they always thin out to a 10w30 due to needing a lot more of those VIIs. This can work out fine if you've got a stock or near stock motor, and do 3000 mile intervals, but with an engine like yours, you definitely want a 10w40 which will not thin out.
10-20-2003, 10:55 PM
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Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB) So Pat, what Mobil 1 oil or any other synthetic brand oil that can easily be found in any auto store would you recommend for a semi to highly modified engine (ie: h/c, spray, etc.)? I use Mobil 1 10w-30 right now, and my oil pressure at idle sometimes drops to like 30 psi after hard driving, but is always up decently high while on the throttle, especially WOT. I want something that I can easily find at any auto parts store, and not have to special order, any insight would be greatly appreciated! 
10-21-2003, 04:25 AM
#31
TECH Senior Member
Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB) For relatively easy to find oils, I'd say German Castrol 0w30 or Mobil 1 0w40, both of which are at some Autozones. Both oils are thicker than Mobil 1 10w30 (German Castrol is almost a 40wt)
10-22-2003, 08:52 AM
#32
TECH Senior Member
Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB) By the way, does anyone have the link to where I can read this article (or TSB) where GM recommends conventional oil? I'd really like to read what kind of reasoning they've given for this new recommendation.
10-22-2003, 03:33 PM
#33
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Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB)
EVIL:
As my oil pressure is lower than i would like it be on my 427 C5R block Engine, can you kindly let me know how much improvement you got in oil pressure from going to the thicker oil?
If you can give before and after regarding idle, normal cruising and WOT blasts, that would be GREAT!
THANKS
As my oil pressure is lower than i would like it be on my 427 C5R block Engine, can you kindly let me know how much improvement you got in oil pressure from going to the thicker oil?
If you can give before and after regarding idle, normal cruising and WOT blasts, that would be GREAT!
THANKS
my motor i guess is built very loose and never got good pressure, but everyone i talked to said that 20 at idle and 40-45 wide open was enough. now that i have the thicker oil, i get 35-40 idle and 55-60 wide open. before cruising down the highway at 65 it would run around 25 and now its at 40. seems more like what the stock oil pressure should be.
I ran the 40W for a little while during break-in (3000 miles), then wanted to switch to synthetic. With 40W, my hot idle was 20#, cruise 35#, and WOT around 55#.
I went with Royal Purple 20W50. My hot idle is 25#, at cruise it is 40# and WOT is aound 60#. I always let it warm up good when first starting it.
I am going to go down to Royal Purple 10W40 soon for the winter months - as long as the pressure stays good, I may stay with it for next years racing season too.
I agree it is not good to have unnessasarily (sp?) thick oil!
10-22-2003, 06:59 PM
#34
Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB)
By the way, does anyone have the link to where I can read this article (or TSB) where GM recommends conventional oil? I'd really like to read what kind of reasoning they've given for this new recommendation.
Pat, I should be fine running the Castrol 0W40 in my 427, correct? Or should I just run the Amsoil 10W40? I currently run Castrol GTX 10W30
10-23-2003, 04:14 AM
#35
TECH Senior Member
Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB) For your 427 I'd lean towards the Amsoil 10w40 or Redline 10w40 just because your clearances are probably built a bit looser in that higher horsepower monster.
10-23-2003, 05:46 PM
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Re: After 40K miles, I'm going back to Dyno Oil > (per TSB)
My motor, like Evils, was built loose. When I first started my motor with 10W30 (dino), the pressure was 15# at hot idle in gear. I panicked and called my engine builder - he said it was built looser than stock, and recommended straight 40W racing oil.
I ran the 40W for a little while during break-in (3000 miles), then wanted to switch to synthetic. With 40W, my hot idle was 20#, cruise 35#, and WOT around 55#.
I went with Royal Purple 20W50. My hot idle is 25#, at cruise it is 40# and WOT is aound 60#. I always let it warm up good when first starting it.
I am going to go down to Royal Purple 10W40 soon for the winter months - as long as the pressure stays good, I may stay with it for next years racing season too.
I agree it is not good to have unnessasarily (sp?) thick oil!
I ran the 40W for a little while during break-in (3000 miles), then wanted to switch to synthetic. With 40W, my hot idle was 20#, cruise 35#, and WOT around 55#.
I went with Royal Purple 20W50. My hot idle is 25#, at cruise it is 40# and WOT is aound 60#. I always let it warm up good when first starting it.
I am going to go down to Royal Purple 10W40 soon for the winter months - as long as the pressure stays good, I may stay with it for next years racing season too.
I agree it is not good to have unnessasarily (sp?) thick oil!
Now I'm getting 20# hot idle, 35-40# cruise, 45-50# WOT. I think that is plenty of pressure. The engine is quieter than with the 20W50, and seems to have more power (I guess pumping that thick stuff really does rob some ponies!)
I'm gonna stick with the 10W30 in the winter and go to 10W40 Amsoil in the spring when the weather warms up.
Patman, your the resident expert - does it seem like I'm doing the right thing?? Thanks!
10-27-2003, 03:37 AM
#39
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by BLK02WS6
Well, I just changed it and ended up going with Amsoil 10W30. I checked out the specs on it and it flowed better than Royal Purple 10W30 or 10W40 when cold and then got thicker than Royal Purple 10W30 when hot.
Now I'm getting 20# hot idle, 35-40# cruise, 45-50# WOT. I think that is plenty of pressure. The engine is quieter than with the 20W50, and seems to have more power (I guess pumping that thick stuff really does rob some ponies!)
I'm gonna stick with the 10W30 in the winter and go to 10W40 Amsoil in the spring when the weather warms up.
Patman, your the resident expert - does it seem like I'm doing the right thing?? Thanks!
Now I'm getting 20# hot idle, 35-40# cruise, 45-50# WOT. I think that is plenty of pressure. The engine is quieter than with the 20W50, and seems to have more power (I guess pumping that thick stuff really does rob some ponies!)
I'm gonna stick with the 10W30 in the winter and go to 10W40 Amsoil in the spring when the weather warms up.
Patman, your the resident expert - does it seem like I'm doing the right thing?? Thanks!
Sounds like a good plan to me, Amsoil works great in these engines!
10-27-2003, 03:37 AM
#40
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by silverado
Does a Mobil 1 0w40 seem right for my application? See Sig. Motor is internally balanced, and uses forged crank/rods
Mobil 1 0w40 is definitely the better choice compared to Mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30.