HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

9k interval between oil change

http://chad.readlinger.com/gallery/C...s/Oil_Sample_2

silverado

iTrader: (1)

Are Mobil 1 oils generally on the thin side for all of their grades. Patman said that their 30 weight is very thin, so does that mean that their 40 weight also runs on the thin side? (in comparison to other 40 weights etc.) Does that also mean that the Castrol Syntec 0w30, and Mobil 1 0w40 would be equivalents?

Patman

Did you add some 15w50 into this mix, as it's viscosity suggests that since it's on the line of 30/40wt.

Patman

No, their 0w40 is not on the thin side, it's around 14.2cst, so it's more in the middle. So it's about 2cst thicker than Castrol 0w30.

94-98 Trans Am

Patman: I'm running an ls1 vette with almost 91k. Oil temperatures in the morning are around 36 degrees some days. It will only get worse. Its get really cold. I do drive the car easy most of the time, but on weekends I will run a few highways rolls and drive the car fairly hard. What do you recommend for my next oil change? What do you think of the Castrol Syntec Blends?

Also..had a little problem the other day on I78. I was running the 6.0 truck filter and it bent, pulled over and shut it off just in time before I lost oil pressure. I'm running the shorter ls1 filter now. I was running synthetic, since I was low on money I threw 5 or 10w-30 castrol syntec blend in on the side of the highway along with the filter. Is it alright to go from a synthetic to a blend?

thanks,
Corey

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

That isnt my analysis. I found it on LS1.com after reading the post I see why you think that

highgear

For the last 15,000 miles I have used the WalMart 10-30. Works great, good oil pressure, no oil burning, costs about $.79-.85 per Qt. The AC PF44 filter also works good.

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

I've been using a sythetic racing oil, not a passenger car oil called Neo-Synthetic in 0w-5 weight since it was new in 99'. I haven't had any of the oil consumption problems. I went with this oil for alot of reasons. One was the really high temp that it burns at. It's $9.95qt. I cruise at around the upper 80mph range on a daily basis. When there's plenty of space, and road conditions permitting, I go into the nether region, 140 +mph.I also don't use the any stock type spin-on filtration system.

Patman

I recently saw an oil analysis report on the Syntec Blend which looked very good, and the guy who posted it claims he's seeing similar results from all of his vehicles that run this oil, and the results are better than what he's seen with Mobil 1. But I have my doubts, and still believe most of the blends on the market are way overpriced.

For very cold weather, I'd definitely recommend a full synthetic. The German 0w30 Castrol Syntec is one of the best cold weather performers out there, so is Amsoil 0w30 and 5w30.

Honestly, there are lots of good oils out there right now.

silverado

iTrader: (1)

While we are on the subject, what are some oils to NOT use. Obviously we've seen and heard from good oils (Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Royal Purple, Amsoil), but what are the bad ones? Or are oil standards so high today that there arent any "bad" oils?

Patman

There honestly aren't any oils which would ruin your engine, but there are oils which don't show as good wear numbers as others. But sometimes you'll find one oil which doesn't work well in one engine, will work very well in another. Royal Purple did not do very well in my wife's Honda for instance, but I have seen it do ok in other vehicles.

Fierce-LS1

iTrader: (3)

Patman,
you have some good info there. Thanks
If you had the choice between Mobil 1 0w40 or Castrol 0w30, which one would you recommend for southern cali weather where it's warm most of the time and never gets freezing.

thanks again

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

I've been using Mobil 1 0W40 now for about a year. Oil consumption is about half of what it was using 10W30. I've also noticed that my oil pressure when hot is about 5 or so PSI higher at idle. I do 5000 mile oil changes in my car so I wanted something a little thicker and less likely to thin out after lots of service. Personally I think 10W30 M1 would be fine if the oil temps were kept at a lower level...I never understood why GM didnt use an oil cooler in the LT1 or LS1??

Patman

I prefer the Castrol 0w30 as it has shown extremely good results not only for me but for many others too. But if you can't find it, the M1 0w40 is an excellent alternative for sure.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Patman ... you knew I'd post up in this frickas, didn't you.

My '98 TA has 80K miles on it. Most of the last 30K has been on a road course or AXer course somewhere over the last 3 or 4 years.

I use Havoline 10W40. The motor has never seen a drop of synthetic, unless it was shipped from the factory that way.

My regiment now is to change the oil and filter before each road course event. I will change it immediately after, if I plan on much street driving.

On the street, oil consumption is minimal, it appears. I really don't drive it that much any more. However, the car will burn a 1/2 qt in a 20 minute session on a road course.

When I had the heads off of it this winter, I could still see the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder bores.

Now, I don't buzz the motor either. I shift at 5500-5800 when driving aggressive. Only occassionally does the car see the 6200 rev limiter. The pan has never been off the car.

I recently installed an LGM Super Cool radiator that has a built in oil cooler. I'm sure this will help.

Patman

I knew you'd post up in here Mitch!

Good choice on the 10w40, if I was going to run a conventional, it would be this viscosity for sure. A 5w30 conventional oil is a recipe for disaster on a hard driven LS1, as it will thin to a 5w20 in no time flat.

Running a 10w40 conventional, or any conventional for that matter, in colder climates, means you'll definitely lessen your chances at long engine life over an engine run on a good synthetic. Synthetics definitely keep the engine cleaner in the long run too, although this is something more noticeable once you get into the 150-200k range. With a synthetic you just simply have a much better chance of getting beyond 200k. It's not to say conventional oil won't take you there, just that synthetics are more tolerant to harsher conditions (such as cold weather, overheating motors, higher oil temps, etc.)

Fierce-LS1

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the reply Patmman. I just changed to castrol 0w30 (found it right away at Pepboys with the new red label) but my oil pressure is higher now. It used to be around 40 normal driving and now I'm seeing 50-60. Is that normal ?

thanks Oil guru

Patman

Don't forget, the German 0w30 is almost a 0w40, so you're going to see higher oil pressure at operating temps compared to a thinner oil.

Fierce-LS1

iTrader: (3)

This is a silly question but how much HP do you think is lost between a thicker oil like the castrol 0w30 and a mobil 1 5w30

I ask so many questions you're going to have to start charging me

Patman

I wish I could make some extra money somehow doing stuff like this, then I could buy my C5 sooner!

You probably wouldn't lose much, if any horsepower with the switch to the GC 0w30, I know that I didn't lose any MPG switching to this oil from a thinner oil. If anything it's gone up. And in every car I've switched to this oil, the engine has felt stronger in the low end and midrange throttle response.