So Patman, one more question. Sorry if I missed the answer to this somewhere in this thread but there is just so much info, LOL...

Anyway, why exactly do you prefer the Castrol 0W30 over the Mobil 1 0W40? Is one really better than the other? What would you recommend for a setup like mine? I'm leaning towards trying the Mobil 0W40 to try and cut back oil usage, but I'm concerned about my oil pressure going too high. Right now I'm seeing about 40-45psi at hot idle (55-60psi cruising) with Valvoline full syn 10W30. I have an ARE pump. What do you think? Thanks.

 

I have been running AMSoil 5w30 for a while now, my only complaint is the price!
-Steve

 

That's weird, I've been using the Castrol 0w30 oil for the past 2 oil changes (weird green color), and I always have a little above 60psi at start up and over 40psi at idle when she warms up. While driving (not necessarily WOT) I have about 60psi. I've seen a few people here claim they are seeing about 25-30psi at warm idle and about 50psi at WOT. Is it normal for my car to have the oil pressure it is getting right now? I've noticed this even before I started using the Castrol oil too. I was using 4 quarts of 10w30 and 2 quarts of 15w50 Mobil 1 before.

 

I'm a big fan of synthetics (well, true synthetics) and will continue to use them. Find the right one and you'll never look back. they do keep your motor lovely and clean and do reduce wear.

Just to satisfy a curiosity though, how would people here go about revising there oil from synthetic to dino? For me , I would add a flush to the old oil prior to dropping it to remove as much of the synthetic as possible prior to filling with a dino oil. Anyone else got an opinion on this?

Flush, drain, replace? or just drain and replace?

 

I prefer the Castrol 0w30 because I've seen better oil analysis results posted with this oil over the results I've seen posted with M1 0w40. It seems to be built with no viscosity index improvers and it's made with some pretty trick (but still unknown) base oils which give it excellent low friction characteristics. Either choice would work out just fine though, it's really splitting hairs here. Price and availability is going to be the deciding factor for a lot of people. Castrol 0w30's biggest problem is that it's hard to find. It's only sold in Autozone in the US, and a lot of them are still stocked with the older US made 0w30 unfortunately.

 

I am just now reading this thread. I did a search. Has anyone ever did any dyno results using royal purple, castrol, or mobil 1. Before and after dynos would work....

 

Valvoline 10/30 race oil here
Changed every time I grao cing or 2K miles.

50PSI cold at idle going to 40PSI at idle when hot.
Over 70 under WOT,doesnt burn one drop..

Rebuilt w/file fits and properly clearence shortblock

 

For the record, there's no such thing as "dyno oil." A "dyno" is a dynometer and is not particularly related to oil.

A "dino" is a dinosaur and non-synthetic oils are supposedly from prehistoric organic matter, and thus non-synthetic oils are sometimes called "dino" oil.

 

????
ttt