I have an 02 Camaro SS SLP edition. I need some feedback and advice as to what kind of cam I should put in the car. This will be a project, not something I am going to do right off the bat, I'm just looking for input. Ive bene looking mainly at the MS3 by Texas Speed, or the G5X3 cam by LG. This is a daily driver, but I do not mind the lobe or rough idle. Im 22 years old, these things don't bother me. Also, in the headers department, what is a good set of headers to put on it. Ive looked at pacesetters and TPIS. I know a good chunk of change is going to be spent, but i'm not looking to sink a whole lot into this project. Any input would be great! Thanks!

 

with the little info you gave.. i say ms3..

 

What other info you need?

 

where you want to make power..
m6 or a4
where do you want your power in your powerband
tons or tq or high peak hp
na turbo supercharger or nitrous in future
what heads do you plan on going with
do you race 1/4 or 1/8 or roll racing
what gears you plan on going with
what size tire you plan on going with
what intake you are going to go with
how much money you got to spend

etc etc etc.....

 

haha goes to show I don't know it all.. Well as it is going to be a daily driver, i'm not looking to make it a drag car as much. I will be taking it to the track every once in a while. For the time being I am planning on staying with the stock gearing. It's got the M6 tranny, and i'd like to have a balance of tq and hp. im going to try and just keep the car all motor w/o any power adders. I don't want to sink too much money into it, but i'd like to get the best I can without spending too too much.

 

still didnt answer everything..


you need a rear end first..

sounds like you would be happy with something along the lines of a TSP torquer V.2 or maybe an f13.. something around that... stick with the 230/232ish on a 600ish lift.. smaller i dont think you would be happy, and doesnt sound like you want something too much bigger (probably wouldnt benefit you much either since your not going all out)

just keep in mind, when you do a cam you must also do...
timing chain
oil pump
pushrods
springs
all fluids of course
then your LT's
you will need some misc gaskets (reuse stock header gaskets)
will need at least a base tune on it also

 

Yea I know about the rear end, I was told it's brittle, and will snap in a heartbeat. yea all of the other little things is what is going to run the price up on me. I'm going to probably get a 112 lsa. You know anything about the Magicstick 3 cam? My buddy has a G5X4 cam with a 111 lsa on his C5, and it sounds incredible but you have to hold the gas at every light.

 

rear end is def. a must do!

try to find some NIB (new products in the box never used for used prices).. it will save a LOT and you still have peace of mind with new stuff..

i love the MS series cams.. i have an ms4 myself.. it is very street friendly.. i DD it about 50 or so miles a day, usually a tad more..
its all in the tune man.. your buddies car shouldnt be stalling or whatever its doing for him to hold the gas down.. he just has a shitty tune.. and yes the ms3 sounds mean!

 

how much should I look at spending for all of the bare necesities for the cam and parts that are needed?

 

best thing to do is if you are going to buy from a sponsor is shop around for best prices.. but pay attention to shipping..

http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=175&catid=49
http://texas-speed.com/shop/category...MID=1&catid=44
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=152&catid=51
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=620&catid=53
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=172&catid=48
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=173&catid=48
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=183&catid=45
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=976&catid=45
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=190&catid=45


that should give you an idea.. of course most things are listed twice.. i just let you see what types to get.. you can decide to buy individually or in a package..

with an ms3 you will need dual springs and ls2 timing chain will be plenty.

let me know if you need anything else..

 

Yea that deffinately gives me an idea. Thats for the info man!

 

Bigger does not always mean better . Do a search and you will find more threads on smaller cams making big HP than you can read in a day ! From the little bit of information that you gave , I 'm not sure a big cam would be the best for your goals but that is up to you . The drivability of smaller cams is a big plus if you drive your car alot, just something to think about . Look at the numbers in my sig and look at the baby cam I'm running . Also if you like to use your A/C like I do , that is one more reason not to go too big .

 

no problem man!



1999 Z28 - Patriot stage II 64 cc LS6 heads , Patriot 226/226-585/585 cam , Free mods , Full bolt ons , strange 12 bolt 3.73 , spec stage 3 clutch/ billett flywheel , pacesetters, TSP catted y , Hooker C/B , Racetronics fuel pump, SVO 30 lb inj, LS6 intake, Fast T/B 150 Shot N2O . Tuned on a mustang dyno.


with an ms3 you will make what your making cam only..

the thing about A/C and driveability.. IT IS ALL IN THE TUNE!!! cam selection has VERY VERY little to do with that... my cam drives the same as my buddies f13..
if you have a shitty tuner, go with a smaller cam.. if you have a good tuner, get whatever cam you want.. he will make it drive just like a smaller cam and you can even run your A/C while coming to a fast stop at a red light..

your post was 1/4 right and 3/4 wrong... just keep in mind it is in the tune with big cams.. you were correct smaller cams can make some KILLER numbers... but with a stalled a4 with 410s on a dyno that reads on average 20-25 low i dynoed 385 cam only..

 

If you don't want an all out drag car but one that sounds NASTY I think something from a 228R- a tv2/3 would suit you well.Good bottom and will pull hard on top with DD capability with a good tune . 111+2/112+2= LSA to bring power in soon and peak early and have the nasty lope you want. Search chrs1313 and Predator-Z El Torro custom grind. It's a 230/230 .609/.592 lift cam on XFI/E-XR lobes.

Make sure your springs are set up properly and the cam is degreed in to get the most out of it all...... Decisions.... decisions........

Good luck

 

I agree that tunning is the key to drivability .... but large cams have their limitations on how drivable they can be tuned ...period . Drivabilty is VERY subjective at best . When I think of drivabilty I'm talking bumper to bumper stop and go traffic for 30 to 40 miles without stalling /surging or any other issues . I have some friends that are running big cams and their cars are tuned very good but they do not have the street maners that mine has . I have no doubt that you made the HP that you claim , but where does that cam start making its power at ? Those numbers in my sig were made shutting down at 6,000 rpms . Larger cams with stock heads usually are dogs down low due to the limitations of the amount of air flow in and out of the cylinders . This is why alot of big cam cars get spanked by a car running a smaller cam . Power under the curve is where it's at on the street !

 

our outlook on a DD driven car is TOTALLY different..
where i live you will NEVER hit bumper to bumper stop and go traffic... hell, 30 minutes and your out of my town and in the next one..
although i dont flinch at taking it to nashville, mufreesboro, or any other city that has traffic like that (i have and it does very good no surging bucking etc..)

i honestly forget where it started making power, if your really interested i will find my sheet somewhere and let you know.. my car wasnt setup to feel like a quick street car.. i wanted a car that was going to beat other cars, regardless of what it felt like at half throttle or from a roll..
i made those numbers letting out a tad over 6, wasnt much at all.. keep in mind though again, thats what i built my car.. its insane 4600 rpms and up.. 410s 4k stall ported ls6 heads ported 9090 etc..

my car was a dog from a roll when i had stock 98 heads on.. and moved out down low.. me and my buddy (he had H/C full bolt ons) would beat me EVERY single time from a roll by about 1/2 a car when i got my intake and 2 1/2 or so when i had the ls1 intake.. went to the track and i beat him by 2/10s and outtrapped him by 1mph every run..

i built my car for the 1/8 mile going from a dead stop, not the 1/4 not a roll not on the street etc..
i could give two ***** how my car pulls under 4500 rpms cause if im racing im *usually WOT.. if im not im messing with someone but still winning by going 1/2 throttle..

there is PLENTY of cars that *feel* faster than mine around town and this and that because of power under the curve.. but i promise you i will beat all the ones that *feel* faster than mine in a real (dig) race..
power under the curve isnt where it is at for the street thats a stupid saying (no offense).. power under the curve is good for roll racing and good for people that want to impress people who they take for rides and say that was only half throttle..
power where and how much my car makes COUPLED with the CORRECT supporting mods, wins races.

 

Comp Cams-XER281. .595-.598, 232-234, 112LS. Should have heads to get most out of this cam. Power thru the whole range, 2400-7200. Patriot Golds with titanium ret, hard locks, good set of hedders, intake and TB. Tuned gets excellent street manners and great results at any track. 24-27mpg anywhere, with 4.10 gear.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/florida-c...duals-f-s.html

 

By all means, if you have the $$ get the stainless. Dynatech 1 3/4X3 with high flow cats and y pipe made 34rwhp and 21rwt, had a flawless fit and never gave a problem. They aint cheap!! These motors like to breathe, get the long tubes, stainless or not.

 

or he could do 224/228 .637/.639 110LSA (+0)..Thats hella touqey...

I personlly like the TQ3..from TSP

I wonder what a 228/230 .630/.640 112 Lsa woulld be like