If I decide to build a decent 6.0 block. Is it best to find a cheapie out of a truck? If so which models is it best to get one from?

 

LQ4's from '99+ trucks are cheap to build and make great power. The only thing with the '99 and '00 blocks is their crank is a tad longer and in order to use a 4L60E or T56 you need to switch the crank with one from an LS1, newer LQ4 or even and LS2 or LQ9. That's what I'm doing with my 2000 block. Otherwise you have to use a TH400, 700R4, or 4L80E with the '99 and '00 blocks.

 

I believe what you ment to say was

The only thing with the '99 and '00 6.0L Short Block is the crankshafts rear main flange is longer...

Otherwise you have to use a TH400, 700R4, or 4L80E with the '99 and '00 Crankshaft

It is the crankshaft that is different on the 99-00 6.0L

As far as the early crankshafts (99-00) goes, the rear main flange area was 1.25 wide or thick how ever you want to describe it and have a Casting number 12552215

The Noramal size ones for 01 - up should measure approx .860 wide/thick and have a Casting number 12552216

Here is some info with pictures...
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...ankshafts.aspx


5.3L, 5.7 LS1 and 6.0L are the same exact crank... They are how ever Balanced differently for there specific set up. A true LS1 crank also had a 1 Inch hole gundrilled through the center of the mains to help save weight. The all share the same Casting number 12552216
Here is a side by side crank picture.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/876185-post19.html


BTW those early engines came with heaveir Iron heads... There exactally the same as the 01-up 317's only they were made of Iron.

 

Isn't that what I said, the crankshaft is different?


Either way, putting a different crankshaft in a '99 or '00 block will solve the problem...when I say different crankshaft, I mean one from an LSx, LQ9, or newer LQ4.

 

We have a 2000 LQ4 in our 98 Jimmy, and we are tired of trying to make the LS1 4L60E work (even though we finally have all the parts), since we have to pull the motor back out.

Where can we find the cheapest LS1 crank that you guys would recommend?

I figured I would reply in this thread, since it is halfway related to this thread anyway. Thanks!

 

In a way, yes you did say that, but the way in which you typed it may lead some to believe there is also a difference in the block casting itself. I thought I would also add the links with pictures so people could physically see the difference at the rear of the crankshaft and also more specific information on how to identify one.

Some people are buying cranks from a 5.3L or a 6.0L thinking they are getting an actual LS1 crank when in fact they are not. They even pay more for an LS1 crank. For some reason people also think That an LS1 crank Might be better when in fact it is really no different from it's truck counter part. Other then the 1 inch Hole through the center. My thought would be that the gundrilled crank would actually be weaker in a high HP situation.

 

so with the thicker crank i can do a Turbo 400 swap ? would there be any difference in what flex plate or torque converter i use ?