question about stock 5.3
It's better to change the stock v-springs even on a stocker, and want to keep it in stock configuration.
Up-grading to the LS6 springs for example give better control of the valve-train and will give you a (slight) power increase in itself; and give you better reliability too.
Any cam change is going to need new push-rods and springs as a minimum.
All aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle (even the ZO6 cam) and so need a different length push-rod.
Up-grading to the LS6 springs for example give better control of the valve-train and will give you a (slight) power increase in itself; and give you better reliability too.
Any cam change is going to need new push-rods and springs as a minimum.
All aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle (even the ZO6 cam) and so need a different length push-rod.
At least Use the factory Yellow Z06 springs for any small cams under .550 lift. They usually run around $60 up or down deppending on the source. As far as push rod lengths They should always be checked after the cam has been installed to insure you get the proper length.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
In Chapter 3 (Production Parts For Performance).
leaving out the parts quoted in an earlier post the RODS paragraph mentions the following only.........
"If you plan on using factory connecting rods, the way to go is with the LS1/LS6 rods for car engines.
The LS1 and LS6 use the same powdered-metal, cracked cap rod, which uses a pressed in piston pin. All of the Gen III V-8 factory rods are 6.096 inches in length and use 8mm rod bolts.."
There's probably more detailed information elsewhere now, as this book was published in 2004.
In the book mentioned,
In Chapter 3 (Production Parts For Performance).
leaving out the parts quoted in an earlier post the RODS paragraph mentions the following only.........
"If you plan on using factory connecting rods, the way to go is with the LS1/LS6 rods for car engines.
The LS1 and LS6 use the same powdered-metal, cracked cap rod, which uses a pressed in piston pin. All of the Gen III V-8 factory rods are 6.096 inches in length and use 8mm rod bolts.."
There's probably more detailed information elsewhere now, as this book was published in 2004.
In Chapter 3 (Production Parts For Performance).
leaving out the parts quoted in an earlier post the RODS paragraph mentions the following only.........
"If you plan on using factory connecting rods, the way to go is with the LS1/LS6 rods for car engines.
The LS1 and LS6 use the same powdered-metal, cracked cap rod, which uses a pressed in piston pin. All of the Gen III V-8 factory rods are 6.096 inches in length and use 8mm rod bolts.."
There's probably more detailed information elsewhere now, as this book was published in 2004.
Yes I have that Book too, and the true rod measurement Is 6.098 The book has several typo's and contradictions in it. Gm Even list it as 6.098 . If you look on Page 30 of the original book he also list the rod demension as 6.098 and the rod bolts as being a 9x1.00... SO go figure. I Dont mean to be an *** but I just wanted to clear that one up as there are many typo's in that book.
As far as the rods go, They use the SAME CASTINGS for the LS1, 5.3, 6.0 W/LQ4 option from 1997-2004... I spoke with a local conecting rod supplier and he also looked it up and confirmed for me they are indeed the same exact rod and he has over 300 cores currently in stock.
The 4.8L uses a longer rod as I specified before.
The 6.0 LQ9 option and the 6.0 LS2 use a floating pin rod.
Its also my under standing that in 2005 even the LQ4 optioned 6.0L may have the floating pin rods in them too.
The early LS1 rods from 97-98 have the weaker Less desirable rod bolts in them.
If some one still thinks that the LS1 rods are indeed different some how Please feel free to post a side by side picture for comparison explaining the difference. Were all here to learn, my self included, and up untill this point I have seen no physical evidence to show they are actually different.
Do you have any proof that they are not???
I do know The very early LS1's like 97-98 use a different type of rod bolt and are not as common. As far as I know the rod is still the same though. Around 99 the rod bolt was re-designed and used a little feral as it's called to help locate the bolt's shoulder I have also been told that it's supposed to help Keep the cap from shiffting under high load. Believe what you want about that as I am only repaeting what I heard.
I do know The very early LS1's like 97-98 use a different type of rod bolt and are not as common. As far as I know the rod is still the same though. Around 99 the rod bolt was re-designed and used a little feral as it's called to help locate the bolt's shoulder I have also been told that it's supposed to help Keep the cap from shiffting under high load. Believe what you want about that as I am only repaeting what I heard.
i do not have proof either way, but i have seen the rods laying side by side and they don't *look EXACTLY the same. just like everyone says the ls and lq series cranks are the same, when in fact they are not.
i ask of the 5.3 stuff because i will essentially be overcamming a 5.3 and shifting north of 7k. i am comfortable with this idea now as the ls1/6 engines live above 7k OK, so a smaller cube, lighter engine should fair better and be MORE than OK. i'm just searching for some peace of mind before i spend 2 years juggling a family and homelife while piecing a car together only for it to blow up the 3rd time down the drag strip haha. oh well, what happens - happens. we will see. i appreciate the information and clarification you are/have providing/ed.
Yes I have heard around 00 was the change on the bolts but I have never had anything that early in my possesion. Everything I have personally picked up was 01 or newer. All the info I have run across on the net or read in these books says around 99. So as they say you have to take it with a grain of salt...
As far as the rods them selfs, I don't have that may sets in my possesion but the rod guy I spoke to is very knowledgable. Unfortunitally I am not aware of any side by side pictures showing the difference of the LS1 and the standard truck rod. If you have or could provide some pictures it would be much appericated. As I said were all here to learn, My self included.
As far as the cranks go, a true LS1 crank has a 1 inch hole gundrilled through the center But carries the same casting number on it as it's truck counter part. The thread I posted a link of shows the 2 side by side. Other then the Hole, and they way they are ballanced for ther application, I am not aware of any other Physical differences.
While I am sure the ARP rod bolts will get the job done I really like the Katechs if your NOT taking the engine apart to re-work the internals...
As far as the rods them selfs, I don't have that may sets in my possesion but the rod guy I spoke to is very knowledgable. Unfortunitally I am not aware of any side by side pictures showing the difference of the LS1 and the standard truck rod. If you have or could provide some pictures it would be much appericated. As I said were all here to learn, My self included.
As far as the cranks go, a true LS1 crank has a 1 inch hole gundrilled through the center But carries the same casting number on it as it's truck counter part. The thread I posted a link of shows the 2 side by side. Other then the Hole, and they way they are ballanced for ther application, I am not aware of any other Physical differences.
While I am sure the ARP rod bolts will get the job done I really like the Katechs if your NOT taking the engine apart to re-work the internals...
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
1FastBrick,
In the same book we've talked about; on page 44, bottom left, is a pic of two similar rods which is captioned "car and truck."
I don't read anything into that as I don't remember seeing it expanded on in the text.....
The previous page shows a picture of a car and truck crank.
Though it's mentioned elsewhere that not all truck cranks came with the wider rear main seal.......
In the same book we've talked about; on page 44, bottom left, is a pic of two similar rods which is captioned "car and truck."
I don't read anything into that as I don't remember seeing it expanded on in the text.....
The previous page shows a picture of a car and truck crank.
Though it's mentioned elsewhere that not all truck cranks came with the wider rear main seal.......
1FastBrick,
In the same book we've talked about; on page 44, bottom left, is a pic of two similar rods which is captioned "car and truck."
I don't read anything into that as I don't remember seeing it expanded on in the text.....
The previous page shows a picture of a car and truck crank.
Though it's mentioned elsewhere that not all truck cranks came with the wider rear main seal.......
In the same book we've talked about; on page 44, bottom left, is a pic of two similar rods which is captioned "car and truck."
I don't read anything into that as I don't remember seeing it expanded on in the text.....
The previous page shows a picture of a car and truck crank.
Though it's mentioned elsewhere that not all truck cranks came with the wider rear main seal.......
I will check the book out and look at the picture you referenced...
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