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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 08:43 AM
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Default question about stock 5.3

I have searched but cannot find exactly what I am looking for. I have never heard anyone say are the 5.3 stock shortblocks as strong strength wise as the 5.7's that came in T/a or camaros? I have also look for stock flow numbers on the heads. How well do the 5.3 heads flow out of the box compared to say 241's?
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 09:29 AM
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5.3s are cast iron, 5.7s, I think, are all aluminum, 6.0s could be either. How do you mean "strong" as in power to the ground or break in half? Heads have small combustion chambers as well as small valves. 5.3s seem to have good low end torque out of the box with long tubes, smallish cam and 3.73 gear. I'm running a 2002 in a 98 F body, stock internals, good heads, small comp cam, long tubes, same 3.73s & magna charger with SD and getting 450 rw torque 470 rw hp through a built 4L60 with 2400 stall. torque & hp come in togather at about 2,500 & parallel each other till they cross at 5,252. Only problem I have is getting it hooked on 11" Nittos and staying hooked. I like it.
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 09:57 AM
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By strength wise, I mean how much abuse will a stock 5.3 take with upgraded rod bolts? I know on a stock 5.7 they will handle alot of abuse as in nitrous and such if tuned properly.
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by eaglerods
By strength wise, I mean how much abuse will a stock 5.3 take with upgraded rod bolts? I know on a stock 5.7 they will handle alot of abuse as in nitrous and such if tuned properly.
Basicly the only difference the block is CI, every thing else is the same.
I'm getting pretty decent numbers out of mine and I don't have ARP bolts internally. Only have ARP head studs and nuts because of the blower. BUT I don't turn it over 6 grand either, no need with the blower. If your going to use Nitrous all kinds of **** can happen and I'd say you at least need rods, pistons & good top ring with every thing being held together with ARP. JMHO
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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I have owned 4 ls camaros and trans ams and each one of them have held for well over 150 track passes on a 200 wet shot of nitrous without anything upgraded. Basically all I am looking for is the stock rotating assembly as strong material wise as a stock 5.7?
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 01:38 PM
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Same crank just smaller bore. Not sure about rod bolts. I was surprised but a guy on here said stock 5.3 heads flow 230ish IIRC which is pretty close to stock LS1 806/853/241 heads. He posted flow #'s but not an actual flow sheet.
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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The Crankshafts are the same and use the same casting number. Only the LS1 has a 1 inch hole gun drilled through the center of the mains. Truck cranks are solid. The Rods are the same as are the rod bolts...

As far as the heads go there fairly similar except the larger bore LS1 heads hav a larger combustion chamber...


Casting Number 706 and 862
Head: 1999+ 4.8L / 5.3 Liter Truck
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12559862
12561706
Combustion Chamber Volume: 61.15cc
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Intake Port Volume: 200cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 70cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 1.89 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches

Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 61.15 cc----0.100--0.200--0.300-- 0.400--0.500---0.550---0.600
Intake 200 cc----------63 ---128----179-----210----218----221-----226
Exhaust 70 cc----------54 -- 93 ----121----145-----163----168----174

Casting Numbers 241, 806, 853
Head: 1997+ LS1 5.7 Liter Passenger Car
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12559806 (1997-98) Chambers = 69cc
12559853 (1999-00)
12564241 (2000-03)
Combustion Chamber Volume: 66.67cc
Compression Ratio: 10.1:1
Intake Port Volume: 200cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 70cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches

Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 66.67 cc------0.100--0.200---0.300---0.400---0.500---0.550--0.600
Intake 200 cc------------67----122-----178-----215-----219-----223---227
Exhaust 70 cc------------52-----97-----133-----156-----170-----76----180
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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862 look like the are a better built head concidering the only lose 1cfm across the top end with a small intake valve...
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cellulis44
862 look like the are a better built head concidering the only lose 1cfm across the top end with a small intake valve...
I didn't do the test and I dont have any info as to the conditions or the time frame they were flowed in. but it thought it would give an idea as far as how close they were to each other...
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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Go on youtube and search 1320video fairmont. I would post a link but on the blackberry
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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thanks for the input.
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by eaglerods
thanks for the input.


FWIW Wiseco Now has off the shelf forged pistons for the 5.3L There resonably priced around $600
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 02:06 PM
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Yeah I know, I am just going for a budget junkyard build.
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by eaglerods
Yeah I know, I am just going for a budget junkyard build.
Were do live??? Do you already have one???
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
The Rods are the same as are the rod bolts..
do you have any proof to back up this statement? all 5.3 engines, aluminum and iron alike, have the SAME rods as an ls1?
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 12:45 PM
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if i was to pick up a 5.3 what would be the best cam to get for more power , with out changing springs or valves I'm not really a motor head i mostly a fabricator
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by s346k
do you have any proof to back up this statement? all 5.3 engines, aluminum and iron alike, have the SAME rods as an ls1?
Do you have any proof that they are not???

I do know The very early LS1's like 97-98 use a different type of rod bolt and are not as common. As far as I know the rod is still the same though. Around 99 the rod bolt was re-designed and used a little feral as it's called to help locate the bolt's shoulder I have also been told that it's supposed to help Keep the cap from shiffting under high load. Believe what you want about that as I am only repaeting what I heard. They are a cracked rod design and only fit together one way. The caps are also not interchangable between rods as each one fractures differently. They have the number 143 cast into them on the big end... The rod is the Same length and demision. They were used in the 5.3, LS1, 6.0-LQ4 option

The 6.0L LQ9 and LS2 Use a Beefier rod with a Floating pin but they are the same length as the 5.3 and LS1

Stock rod length For all those applications Is 6.098

The 4.8 used a longer Rod with a 121BW cast in to the cap area on the big end . They measure 6.275

As far as the L33 Aluminum 5.3L goes I am told only the piston is different. They use a 4.8L Flat top with the stantard 6.098 5.3L rod for a bump in compression. I know Because some one on here that actually works for GM looked up the part numbers for the Two applications and it shows the Part number is the same for the pistons. If its a Gen 4 engine Then it has a 48X reluctor wheel on the crank VS. the Gen 3engine's 24X reluctor wheel.

All though this is an older artical it does have a picture of all 3 Rods side by side.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...all_Block.aspx

In case some one is curious about the pin height of the pistons between the 4.8 and 5.3 and how that would work... We did the math in this post...
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...7&postcount=25
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 02:10 AM
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5.3 truck heads,

flow well because they are a (rougher) copy of the LS6 type intake ports.

The 5.7 (LS1/LS6) rods are different to 5.3 and 6.0.

But, quoted from the "How To Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8's" by Will Handzell.

1) "...The stock car rods are good to 550hp..... the truck rods to 500.

2) Avoid '97-'98 stock rod bolts, but stock rod bolts from '99-on have been known to handle over 450hp without issue.
3) ...Though it's recommended to fit ARP or other better aftermarket rod bolts whatever power you are going to make....."
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by bryan.k
if i was to pick up a 5.3 what would be the best cam to get for more power , with out changing springs or valves I'm not really a motor head i mostly a fabricator
It's better to change the stock v-springs even on a stocker, and want to keep it in stock configuration.
Up-grading to the LS6 springs for example give better control of the valve-train and will give you a (slight) power increase in itself; and give you better reliability too.

Any cam change is going to need new push-rods and springs as a minimum.
All aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle (even the ZO6 cam) and so need a different length push-rod.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Sid447
5.3 truck heads,

flow well because they are a (rougher) copy of the LS6 type intake ports.

The 5.7 (LS1/LS6) rods are different to 5.3 and 6.0.

But, quoted from the "How To Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8's" by Will Handzell.

1) "...The stock car rods are good to 550hp..... the truck rods to 500.

2) Avoid '97-'98 stock rod bolts, but stock rod bolts from '99-on have been known to handle over 450hp without issue.
3) ...Though it's recommended to fit ARP or other better aftermarket rod bolts whatever power you are going to make....."

Other then the early bolts in the 97-98 LS1

Can you explain what is different about the rods from say 99 up in an LS1 Vs. 5.3 and the LQ4 6.0???
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