Melted a piston...
He pulled the motor yesterday and found the following:
This is a heads & cam car (see sig), never been sprayed, tuned by yours truly both on the road and on a dyno. On my last dyno run, I was running a little RICH, not lean. But the piston melted anyway.
Only thing I can figure is that on my last run at the track (on a cold night & very slippery track), the tires broke loose when I hit third gear and I didn't regain traction until I let off the gas. I bounced off the 6,900 RPM rev limiter a few times, and maybe I maxed out the stock injector on that cylinder when I did that.
Anyway, the block & heads appear to be okay, so I'm going with a .005" overbore and forged rods & pistons... And maybe a new set of 30# injectors?
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(Oh, and just to put a face to a [screen]name, I'm the guy that hung out with you guys at IRP when the One Lap of America came to Indy. Never did get that video posted, sorry.)

Any Idea where your injectors stood, even on the dyno?
Im sure that it didnt help being as cold as it was that day. ATAP or anything or the like?
Any Idea where your injectors stood, even on the dyno?
Im sure that it didnt help being as cold as it was that day. ATAP or anything or the like?
) I haven't done a full dyno-tune, just a 3-pull baseline with a wideband. (Just enough to get the A/F in the right range.) Memo to self: Get thee to a dyno with thy laptop and LS1_Edit & AutoTap cables once thy rebuild is done.
Shell 93 octane gas.
NGK TR55 plugs/Taylor ThunderVolt wires.
29 degrees timing advance at high RPM/high load.
No headers, just stock manifolds with gutted cats, through an SLP Y-pipe and an SLP dual/dual exhaust.
(Getting TR headers before the rebuild is done though.
)I never had ANY knock retard on my "on the street" testing with AutoTap, except in fuel cell 12 (low RPM/high load). I got rid of most of the knock in cell 12 by throwing in extra fuel under those conditions while reducing the timing for those conditions.



