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What parts for high compression bottom end that will turn 9000 rpm

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Old 03-11-2009, 02:45 PM
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In regards to the bottom end, here is what id go with.

ERL LS2 Block w/ 4.125 Bore

Bryant Crankshaft either stock stroke, or something a little shorter. A 3.25 stroke will net you 347C.I.

Bill Miller Engineering Forged Aluminum Rods

I'd call Katech for a set of trick, lightweight pistons.

4 stage dry sump system, give ARE a call

ARP everything

That should be more than able to handle 9K, now what it comes to the valvetrain... it is going to cost you your first born child.
Old 03-11-2009, 02:48 PM
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Coleman Roddy built a monster that ran 9.40's on motor with a 404 cube motor. It was in GM high tech awhile back. I don't think it would be too streetable because the cam was huge but it was a 11.5:1 pump gas motor.
Old 03-11-2009, 07:04 PM
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Are you restricted in cubes? Is this for a class?
Old 03-11-2009, 08:52 PM
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i have a set of del-west titanium valves that will help you achieve your goal. they have only been used for 200 laps. let me know if you are interested.
Old 03-12-2009, 12:39 PM
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Thanks to all for advice and help. I was wanting to keep the cubic inches low. I think I'm just gonna call around to some good shops and c if they think its wise to go N/A or if I should just make the move to forced induction
Old 03-12-2009, 12:43 PM
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I'm wondering why you want to spin 9K? Rpms alone really don't do a whole lot on the drag strip, otherwise everyone would be building 302 DZ chevrolet engines. What you need is big cubes, big power, a light and efficient powertrain to couple it to, plus a light car to stick it in. You can go 9s without wringing the guts out of your engine. If you do aluminum rods, you are going to have to change them every 40 passes or so, your valvesprings won't last much longer than that, and neither will the major components in your engine. That beats the hell out of everything, and you are going to spend probably about 10K per season just maintaining this thing. Think about that before you set an rpm ceiling so high. You can do the same thing, spin somewhere in the upper 6 to low 7K range, and only have to tear down every other season or so.

If it were me? I'd do an LSX block, Callies crank, crower rods, wiseco pistons, LS7 TSP heads, sheetmetal intake and make it as big as possible. Back it with a powerglide and a strong, lightened rear axle and stick it in an uber gutted car. You could do 9s like that easily.



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