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torque sequence for valley pan??

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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 04:25 AM
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Default torque sequence for valley pan??

Not sure if there is ,I looked in a chiltons but couldn't find it?
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 06:23 AM
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I dont think its critical, like a cylinder head is. Ive changed the bolts many times when swapping a FAST LSX intake.

I get them all in and down to the point where they start to torque. Then kind of start in the middle and go out.

But Im sure there is a "true" sequence and torque spec. I dont have it, but Ive never had any problem with the method I use.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 06:43 AM
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there is no gasket to compress.. so sequence is not important
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 07:11 AM
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there is a torq for the bolts, if you dont have a good feel for torq better off using the correct torq-i just start in the middle, cris cross side to side and back and forth-its a basic procedure for all clamping
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by deuce_454
there is no gasket to compress.. so sequence is not important
Yes there is.....
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 07:22 AM
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Important: All gasket surfaces should be free of oil or other foreign material during assembly.



1. Install NEW knock sensor oil seals (1) into the valley cover (2). Lubricate the seal surfaces with clean engine oil.



2. Install the valley cover and NEW gasket. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the valley cover bolts. Tighten the valley cover bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).



4. Install the knock sensors. Tighten the knock sensors to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).



5. Install the knock sensor wire harness.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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I follow the same pattern as the head gasket. The service manual does not specify a pattern.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 09:13 AM
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Thanks... hopefully this OLD valley pan gasket is still good

(Oh, btw nice punk using the pic sweetS10V8) :o

Last edited by Erikz 28; Mar 21, 2009 at 09:18 AM. Reason: addition
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 01:08 PM
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Its not a thing that gets removed often, it should be just fine.
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