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Need Info on Hand Porting LS-6 heads

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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 12:54 AM
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Default Need Info on Hand Porting LS-6 heads

I have a set of LS-6 243 castings i bought for a steal. Before i put them on my Z i want to improve them as much as i can before i put them on,i have machine shop experience and have ported standard small block heads but never an LS style so i i figured id ask before diving into it. Please list any links or pics that are helpful. Thanks
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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Clean up the bowl area and blend everywhere...short side nice and even radius. I like to open up sides of combustion chamber to match bore and unshroud the valves. Valve stem area and port match to intake.
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 08:13 PM
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all that and remove roicker bolt boss humps and swirl ramps.....there used to be alot of threads here when search worked.....
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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the most important thing to do is get a GOOD valve job,with proper blending into the bowls..without that your gains in airflow won't be worth the effort in working the rest of the port..the rocker bolt boss is not really much of a restriction until you start moving a lot of air..
with just a proper valve job and bowl blend you can get over 280cfm..
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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And most of all bigger...biggest intake valves. Open the hole to 87% of your new 2.02'S or bigger.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by handyandy496
And most of all bigger...biggest intake valves. Open the hole to 87% of your new 2.02'S or bigger.
Not necessary on LS heads. I've used stock valves in setups very close to 500rwhp. The difference between a 2.00 and 2.02 valve is really not much more than 5 or so cfm.
A professional valve job is the main importance.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 06:28 PM
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I picked up 50 hp going from 2.06's to 2.19's in my BB 496. but not without running a fly cutter down the pocket and blending to 87% relief into pocket.

And that was with full exhaust.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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you might want to start z lol
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 06:35 PM
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A Google will, often times, provide what the LStech search won't....
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 06:36 PM
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Several more parts to this video...
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 08:32 PM
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A lot of mention of a "good" valve job, but no specifics. Stock is 2 angle, seat and sligh throat cut. Perhaps a cut below the throat cut to further blend the VJ into the port?

One thing I noted on mine, the seat (steel part) overhangs the casting. So for sure would want to blend that into the casting. Would be nice to have a cutter that would do that and the seat all n one fell swoop....I imagine one exists. I also imagine the seat material is very hard.

I have read that the short turn is tricky. Easier to screw up than improve.

I have noted also on photos of the CNC jobs by AI etc, they don't seem to follow the 85% rule....but then I haven't had those heads in my hands.

Sadly, the AFR205's I have are on my C5......not going to remove them to have a look. Although I had them apart and took a bunch of photos.

I want to do the same as the OP. And I have similar experience.

Ron
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
A lot of mention of a "good" valve job, but no specifics. Stock is 2 angle, seat and sligh throat cut. Perhaps a cut below the throat cut to further blend the VJ into the port?

One thing I noted on mine, the seat (steel part) overhangs the casting. So for sure would want to blend that into the casting. Would be nice to have a cutter that would do that and the seat all n one fell swoop....I imagine one exists. I also imagine the seat material is very hard.

I have read that the short turn is tricky. Easier to screw up than improve.

I have noted also on photos of the CNC jobs by AI etc, they don't seem to follow the 85% rule....but then I haven't had those heads in my hands.

Sadly, the AFR205's I have are on my C5......not going to remove them to have a look. Although I had them apart and took a bunch of photos.

I want to do the same as the OP. And I have similar experience.

Ron
No one really wants to give up their secret valve jobs. They're usually the result of long hours, hard work, and a substantial monetary investment. The old 30-45-60 is okay and with a 75 degree bowl cut, it can be an improvement over a factory valve job. This is actually what some places will call their "high performance" valve job. If its being ported, most of that 75 gets blended into the throat, and oftentimes all that overhang does too.

Speaking of the throat, I'm more inclined to believe the throat % is a maximum. There are formulas out there to ball park how big you want the minimum cross section in the port based off of displacement and where you want torque to peak. According to this formula, 2.6sq in was the throat area that I needed to put peak torque where I wanted it, and it was coincidentally 90% of the valve. The big *** valves that I'm putting in my 243 heads are going to keep the same throat area, but it will drop that percentage down a lot since it's a much larger valve.

BTW, I like big valves. The bigger the better, even on LS heads!
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 09:56 AM
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IMO hand port your 241s, do not gamble with a set of 243s, hell if you got them that cheap flip them to pay for the vavejob on the 241s.
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