Need some help to identify this camshaft
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 1
From: Alvarado, Texas
Need some help to identify this camshaft I recently purchased a 01 SS M6 and did not meet to the previous owner (dealer) but I knew at the time it had AFR 205's (part #1510), Cam (lopes), Headers, Corsa catback, BBK 80mm throttle body, LID, Thunder Racing MAF and all the other basic stuff.
To make a long story short I took it today to have Dyno tuned at RPM (Extremely reputible in DFW) and the #'s were very odd. Here's how it went down. Baseline the SS made 377rwhp and 356rwtq. After some tuning it made 386rwhp and 367rwtq. Yeah, I know, pretty crappy considering mods. It basically had everyone their scratching their heads on why it wasn't make good power. Tune is perfect, driving manners very nice. They recommended I pull the cam and see what it had, so I did that tonight.
Here't what I pulled out.
On the end of the cam it has "BULLET" and right above that is says "44293", rotate the cam 180 degree's (wording is upside down) it says "HR/14" and right below that is says "288/299".
I have NEVER heard of Bullet cams and tried googling them but it comes up with a camshaft company that doesn't really specify specs I can understand. I am deifnetly switching this cam out to a MS4, but was checking to see just how bad that cam was effecting performance. Thanks guys
To make a long story short I took it today to have Dyno tuned at RPM (Extremely reputible in DFW) and the #'s were very odd. Here's how it went down. Baseline the SS made 377rwhp and 356rwtq. After some tuning it made 386rwhp and 367rwtq. Yeah, I know, pretty crappy considering mods. It basically had everyone their scratching their heads on why it wasn't make good power. Tune is perfect, driving manners very nice. They recommended I pull the cam and see what it had, so I did that tonight.
Here't what I pulled out.
On the end of the cam it has "BULLET" and right above that is says "44293", rotate the cam 180 degree's (wording is upside down) it says "HR/14" and right below that is says "288/299".
I have NEVER heard of Bullet cams and tried googling them but it comes up with a camshaft company that doesn't really specify specs I can understand. I am deifnetly switching this cam out to a MS4, but was checking to see just how bad that cam was effecting performance. Thanks guys
Last edited by Vcious04; Apr 5, 2009 at 03:42 PM.
Hr14 284 230 152 0.3533 0.085 0.078 0.071 0.064 0.530 0.565 0.600
http://bulletcams.com/Masters/ultradynemasters.html
http://bulletcams.com/Masters/ultradynemasters.html
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 1
From: Alvarado, Texas
Hr14 284 230 152 0.3533 0.085 0.078 0.071 0.064 0.530 0.565 0.600
http://bulletcams.com/Masters/ultradynemasters.html
http://bulletcams.com/Masters/ultradynemasters.html
Now I'm wondering if switching to a MS4 cam would even be beneficial. I think I am going to take the pan off and check for lower end work, possible blower pistons (low compression), Maybe thats why it doesn't perform like it should.
I've dealt with the guys at Bullet before and they know their stuff. They're not very popular in the LS1 world, but lots of folks I know run their cams with good results. I think that cam is a 234/245 on a 114 LSA going by the numbers you posted. Your dyno results are definitely low for that size cam with AFR heads. What type/brand of dyno was it?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 1
From: Alvarado, Texas
I've dealt with the guys at Bullet before and they know their stuff. They're not very popular in the LS1 world, but lots of folks I know run their cams with good results. I think that cam is a 234/245 on a 114 LSA going by the numbers you posted. Your dyno results are definitely low for that size cam with AFR heads. What type/brand of dyno was it?
Last edited by Vcious04; Apr 5, 2009 at 04:02 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 1
From: Alvarado, Texas
Texas speed recommends MS4 with these heads. Don't want to waste $450 and not gain anything. I am going to pull the pan and see if the rotating assembly is stock and that will finally seal the deal.
Trending Topics
Since you know the guys at RPM, have them get Pete at V-Max to spec a cam for you. I know for a fact that they work closely with Pete on H/C combos.
Can't go wrong with one of his custom grinds. He did both of my combos for me and they ROCK!
HTH
Jimbo
Can't go wrong with one of his custom grinds. He did both of my combos for me and they ROCK!
HTHJimbo
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Damn, I wonder whats wrong.. The way I am translating that is basically 284/284 duration, 600/600 Lift. Wonder what the LSA is??
Now I'm wondering if switching to a MS4 cam would even be beneficial. I think I am going to take the pan off and check for lower end work, possible blower pistons (low compression), Maybe thats why it doesn't perform like it should.
Now I'm wondering if switching to a MS4 cam would even be beneficial. I think I am going to take the pan off and check for lower end work, possible blower pistons (low compression), Maybe thats why it doesn't perform like it should.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 1
From: Alvarado, Texas
Man, this is wierd, I was pulling the pen magnets back out of the pushrod holes (holding lifters in-place, extra insurance 
and on #6 Cylinder on the Intake side this is what comes out with the pen magnet. It's wierd because the nut has no damage on it, either does the rocker or pushrod (I marked them when I pulled them off). See pics below.
I am pretty damn sure I slid it right out and didn't touch the intake or anything else accidently picking up a loose nut on the intake, but what impact would this have if it was sitting untop the lifter????? Also, is it even possible for it to be dropped inside the pushrod hole and land exactly untop the lifter? The reason I ask is I know on regular sbc, the lifter valley is open and would be almost impossible to drop a nut and make it land untop of a lifter exactly.
I also finished the inspection of the shortblock and completed a compression test, stock rotating assembly, compression test 175-195, I did do a leak down test without a guage to see what it sounded like, nothing abnormal sounding.
MrElectronic03- Just for my understanding, how did you know its a .565 lift? Isn't it kinda strange to have a 230 duration came with a .565 lift?
Here is a video clip of it idling when I first got it.
and on #6 Cylinder on the Intake side this is what comes out with the pen magnet. It's wierd because the nut has no damage on it, either does the rocker or pushrod (I marked them when I pulled them off). See pics below. I am pretty damn sure I slid it right out and didn't touch the intake or anything else accidently picking up a loose nut on the intake, but what impact would this have if it was sitting untop the lifter????? Also, is it even possible for it to be dropped inside the pushrod hole and land exactly untop the lifter? The reason I ask is I know on regular sbc, the lifter valley is open and would be almost impossible to drop a nut and make it land untop of a lifter exactly.
I also finished the inspection of the shortblock and completed a compression test, stock rotating assembly, compression test 175-195, I did do a leak down test without a guage to see what it sounded like, nothing abnormal sounding.
MrElectronic03- Just for my understanding, how did you know its a .565 lift? Isn't it kinda strange to have a 230 duration came with a .565 lift?
Here is a video clip of it idling when I first got it.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 1
From: Alvarado, Texas
My mistake, it has .600 lift. Its a 230 because we look at cams at .050 duration which for this cam lists as 230, and with stock rockers(1.7 ratio) it would give it a .600 lift. I think the lift is about right for an off teh shelf cam its size but with afr heads and a cam that size I would think you would see over 410rwhp at least.
I'm guessing it would help others to see the dyno graph, especially if it has the Air Fuel Ratio on there as well.
When you get a hold of someone else's project, you can never be sure of all the particulars. You may have to dig a little deeper to see where you can "find" the missing HP. Before you pulled the cam out, did you degree it to verify that it was correctly installed? Did you try any pulls with a stock MAF? What injectors are you running, and what was their duty cycle on the pulls you made?
Are there any build details that specify whether the heads were milled and what gaskets are being run? Your cranking compression would indicate that these are unmilled heads. In another thread, Patrick G had 245psi with his 224/228 110 torque cam, and 200psi with a 234/238 114 cam.
Also, MAC's are mid-length headers that many feel are only a bit better than manifolds. A better bet would be a quality equal-length Long Tube header (AR, Kooks, QTP) and a well constructed Y pipe.
There are a lot a variables that need to be addressed in order to get the max from the parts you have. A 230 cam with bolt-ons and stock heads should get to 400rwhp. Add those heads to the mix, and 430+ is expected, provided all the details have been addressed.
Good Luck!
When you get a hold of someone else's project, you can never be sure of all the particulars. You may have to dig a little deeper to see where you can "find" the missing HP. Before you pulled the cam out, did you degree it to verify that it was correctly installed? Did you try any pulls with a stock MAF? What injectors are you running, and what was their duty cycle on the pulls you made?
Are there any build details that specify whether the heads were milled and what gaskets are being run? Your cranking compression would indicate that these are unmilled heads. In another thread, Patrick G had 245psi with his 224/228 110 torque cam, and 200psi with a 234/238 114 cam.
Also, MAC's are mid-length headers that many feel are only a bit better than manifolds. A better bet would be a quality equal-length Long Tube header (AR, Kooks, QTP) and a well constructed Y pipe.
There are a lot a variables that need to be addressed in order to get the max from the parts you have. A 230 cam with bolt-ons and stock heads should get to 400rwhp. Add those heads to the mix, and 430+ is expected, provided all the details have been addressed.
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 1
From: Alvarado, Texas
I'm guessing it would help others to see the dyno graph, especially if it has the Air Fuel Ratio on there as well.
When you get a hold of someone else's project, you can never be sure of all the particulars. You may have to dig a little deeper to see where you can "find" the missing HP. Before you pulled the cam out, did you degree it to verify that it was correctly installed? Did you try any pulls with a stock MAF? What injectors are you running, and what was their duty cycle on the pulls you made?
Are there any build details that specify whether the heads were milled and what gaskets are being run? Your cranking compression would indicate that these are unmilled heads. In another thread, Patrick G had 245psi with his 224/228 110 torque cam, and 200psi with a 234/238 114 cam.
Also, MAC's are mid-length headers that many feel are only a bit better than manifolds. A better bet would be a quality equal-length Long Tube header (AR, Kooks, QTP) and a well constructed Y pipe.
There are a lot a variables that need to be addressed in order to get the max from the parts you have. A 230 cam with bolt-ons and stock heads should get to 400rwhp. Add those heads to the mix, and 430+ is expected, provided all the details have been addressed.
Good Luck!
When you get a hold of someone else's project, you can never be sure of all the particulars. You may have to dig a little deeper to see where you can "find" the missing HP. Before you pulled the cam out, did you degree it to verify that it was correctly installed? Did you try any pulls with a stock MAF? What injectors are you running, and what was their duty cycle on the pulls you made?
Are there any build details that specify whether the heads were milled and what gaskets are being run? Your cranking compression would indicate that these are unmilled heads. In another thread, Patrick G had 245psi with his 224/228 110 torque cam, and 200psi with a 234/238 114 cam.
Also, MAC's are mid-length headers that many feel are only a bit better than manifolds. A better bet would be a quality equal-length Long Tube header (AR, Kooks, QTP) and a well constructed Y pipe.
There are a lot a variables that need to be addressed in order to get the max from the parts you have. A 230 cam with bolt-ons and stock heads should get to 400rwhp. Add those heads to the mix, and 430+ is expected, provided all the details have been addressed.
Good Luck!
***UPDATE*** I also searched around and found another nut just like the one that was on the end of the pen magnet. It was between the intake and the head. The reason I started searching is the nut just looked to new to be in between the pushrod and lifter.
Here's the dyno graph to analize.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 1
From: Alvarado, Texas
***UPDATE***
Just got off the phone with Bullet Cams and gave the the serial # on the cam to him, here's the exact specs on the cam..
230/232, 595/583, 114 lobe center with +4 degree's timing.
I wonder if this cam is causing my low power?
Wonder what gains I can expect from switch to Kooks LT's with true duals and MS4 or equal cam?
Just got off the phone with Bullet Cams and gave the the serial # on the cam to him, here's the exact specs on the cam..
230/232, 595/583, 114 lobe center with +4 degree's timing.
I wonder if this cam is causing my low power?
Wonder what gains I can expect from switch to Kooks LT's with true duals and MS4 or equal cam?
