Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

I recently purchased a 01 SS M6 and did not meet to the previous owner (dealer) but I knew at the time it had AFR 205's (part #1510), Cam (lopes), Headers, Corsa catback, BBK 80mm throttle body, LID, Thunder Racing MAF and all the other basic stuff.

To make a long story short I took it today to have Dyno tuned at RPM (Extremely reputible in DFW) and the #'s were very odd. Here's how it went down. Baseline the SS made 377rwhp and 356rwtq. After some tuning it made 386rwhp and 367rwtq. Yeah, I know, pretty crappy considering mods. It basically had everyone their scratching their heads on why it wasn't make good power. Tune is perfect, driving manners very nice. They recommended I pull the cam and see what it had, so I did that tonight.

Here't what I pulled out.

On the end of the cam it has "BULLET" and right above that is says "44293", rotate the cam 180 degree's (wording is upside down) it says "HR/14" and right below that is says "288/299".

I have NEVER heard of Bullet cams and tried googling them but it comes up with a camshaft company that doesn't really specify specs I can understand. I am deifnetly switching this cam out to a MS4, but was checking to see just how bad that cam was effecting performance. Thanks guys

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

Hr14 284 230 152 0.3533 0.085 0.078 0.071 0.064 0.530 0.565 0.600

http://bulletcams.com/Masters/ultradynemasters.html

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

Damn, I wonder whats wrong.. The way I am translating that is basically 284/284 duration, 600/600 Lift. Wonder what the LSA is??

Now I'm wondering if switching to a MS4 cam would even be beneficial. I think I am going to take the pan off and check for lower end work, possible blower pistons (low compression), Maybe thats why it doesn't perform like it should.

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

I've dealt with the guys at Bullet before and they know their stuff. They're not very popular in the LS1 world, but lots of folks I know run their cams with good results. I think that cam is a 234/245 on a 114 LSA going by the numbers you posted. Your dyno results are definitely low for that size cam with AFR heads. What type/brand of dyno was it?

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, I sure is dissapointing. It was on a dynojet. I know its right on, my buddies SS made 342rwhp with pacesetters and true duals w/stock internals. Also I ran 1/8th mile a few weeks ago and could only get 87mph trap speed. Thats the main reason I took it in for a tune. Wonding now what rods and pistons it has. Maybe he built the motor w/boost in mind??

HTX

iTrader: (1)

ditch that cam and get another. Make sure to match it to those heads though.

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

Texas speed recommends MS4 with these heads. Don't want to waste $450 and not gain anything. I am going to pull the pan and see if the rotating assembly is stock and that will finally seal the deal.

Jimbo'sZO6

iTrader: (1)

Since you know the guys at RPM, have them get Pete at V-Max to spec a cam for you. I know for a fact that they work closely with Pete on H/C combos.
Can't go wrong with one of his custom grinds. He did both of my combos for me and they ROCK! HTH

Jimbo

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

clutch slipping?

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Actually its a 230/230 with .565/.565 lift. I wouldnt think the lift being so low would make that big of a difference but you should see a nice gain stepping up to the MS4.

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

Man, this is wierd, I was pulling the pen magnets back out of the pushrod holes (holding lifters in-place, extra insurance and on #6 Cylinder on the Intake side this is what comes out with the pen magnet. It's wierd because the nut has no damage on it, either does the rocker or pushrod (I marked them when I pulled them off). See pics below.

I am pretty damn sure I slid it right out and didn't touch the intake or anything else accidently picking up a loose nut on the intake, but what impact would this have if it was sitting untop the lifter????? Also, is it even possible for it to be dropped inside the pushrod hole and land exactly untop the lifter? The reason I ask is I know on regular sbc, the lifter valley is open and would be almost impossible to drop a nut and make it land untop of a lifter exactly.

I also finished the inspection of the shortblock and completed a compression test, stock rotating assembly, compression test 175-195, I did do a leak down test without a guage to see what it sounded like, nothing abnormal sounding.

MrElectronic03- Just for my understanding, how did you know its a .565 lift? Isn't it kinda strange to have a 230 duration came with a .565 lift?

Here is a video clip of it idling when I first got it.

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

I was stating to think the same thing when it was on the dyno. They said it was holding strong, no problems.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

HR14 284 230 152 0.3533 0.085 0.078 0.071 0.064 0.530 0.565 0.600

My mistake, it has .600 lift. Its a 230 because we look at cams at .050 duration which for this cam lists as 230, and with stock rockers(1.7 ratio) it would give it a .600 lift. I think the lift is about right for an off teh shelf cam its size but with afr heads and a cam that size I would think you would see over 410rwhp at least.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

I'm guessing it would help others to see the dyno graph, especially if it has the Air Fuel Ratio on there as well.

When you get a hold of someone else's project, you can never be sure of all the particulars. You may have to dig a little deeper to see where you can "find" the missing HP. Before you pulled the cam out, did you degree it to verify that it was correctly installed? Did you try any pulls with a stock MAF? What injectors are you running, and what was their duty cycle on the pulls you made?

Are there any build details that specify whether the heads were milled and what gaskets are being run? Your cranking compression would indicate that these are unmilled heads. In another thread, Patrick G had 245psi with his 224/228 110 torque cam, and 200psi with a 234/238 114 cam.

Also, MAC's are mid-length headers that many feel are only a bit better than manifolds. A better bet would be a quality equal-length Long Tube header (AR, Kooks, QTP) and a well constructed Y pipe.

There are a lot a variables that need to be addressed in order to get the max from the parts you have. A 230 cam with bolt-ons and stock heads should get to 400rwhp. Add those heads to the mix, and 430+ is expected, provided all the details have been addressed.

Good Luck!

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the info.

***UPDATE*** I also searched around and found another nut just like the one that was on the end of the pen magnet. It was between the intake and the head. The reason I started searching is the nut just looked to new to be in between the pushrod and lifter.

Here's the dyno graph to analize.

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

***UPDATE***

Just got off the phone with Bullet Cams and gave the the serial # on the cam to him, here's the exact specs on the cam..

230/232, 595/583, 114 lobe center with +4 degree's timing.

I wonder if this cam is causing my low power?

Wonder what gains I can expect from switch to Kooks LT's with true duals and MS4 or equal cam?