2000 ls1, I got new OEM GM head bolts.. I was doing everything perfect, degreein like your supposted to, I started my final 90% pass right at the end of the turn the bolt snapped! It's the first bolt that you start the sequence with. Now where the bolt broke is the the threads down in the block..
How am I gonna get this out? Or am I just f***ed..

I need some help guys..

 

You can do a few different things. Being the block, some are ruled out.

You can use a left handed drill bit and drill inthe center being very careful not to hit the threads on the OD of the block. That MIGHT take it out, probably not. After you have a half inch or so drilled, you can use a extractor that you smack inside the bolt and try to turn it out. That usually works for me.

Also, worse comes to worse, I have many a times welded a nut onto the broken stud and used the nut to turn it out. Being it the block, this probably will not be a viable option. But the screw extractor is probably your best bet.

If there is a little hanging out, you can use a small chisel and try to chsiel it CCW. I use that also, but again, never tried it on a engine block before. These are just the ways I have taken broken studs out before, maybe someone else has a different route to take.

 

Go to Sears or other place that sells tools. They have tools to remove broken bolts.

 

bolt extractor works awesome. if that does't i don't see why you can't weld a nut to the stud. it should be able to take the heat noproblem it is an engine after all and they get hot. don't on diffs and u joints before. it should only take a couple of secs to mig weld bolt on with minimal splatter jusr tape the surrounding area cover gas lins and injectors to erroe on the side of caution

 

I did that with a main bolt. I just removed the cap put the broken part of the bolt in the hole and backed it out. I was lucky in the way the bolt broke maybe, it came out easy as there was no pressure on it. Just sayin try the easy **** before you get all to drilling and easy out-ish.

Good luck

 

WOW!! i seriously went with ARPs when i did mine because i absolutely hate Torque to Yield bolts. dangerous huh. well seeing as its a blind thread then you cant get it from the main cap area. i would say drill the broken stud then using a VERY LONG easy out but you gotta be a bad dude to get it from that deep. here's a recommendation for ya. get an LSX. lol

 

Allright I will try to do some of these things, But here is a pic of the bolt that broke to a new bolt just to show ya how far down it is..

 

With the head taken off, and no pressure of the bolt head, the threaded area should turn right out pretty easy...I have cut a straight line in broken things before with a demel tool, and used a flat haed screwdriver to back them out...just a suggestion.

 

It's not sticking out. It's down in the block.

 

It's not sticking out. It's down in the block.

 

i did this about 3 weeks ago, except it was an ARP Stud. Here is what i did
1 got an old pushrod and cut the ends off
2 put some tap around the pushrod so that it fits the in the bolt hole snugly
this will keep your drill bit centered in the bolt hole
3 find a drill bit that barely fits through the pushrod
4 drill, keeping track of how far you have gone
5 get a long easy out, I had to weld an extension on to one
if need be, use a bigger drill bit after the initial one to get the easy out to fit properly

 

I think the bigger question is why did the bolt snap? Maybe a bad bolt. I dunno. But did you clean out those bolt holes and verify that there is no water, coolant or any liquid or debris in there?


This has got to be the most useful tactic (even with the bad spelling) I have ever read about!

It makes me almost want to try it out for myself.

 

I cleand the treads in the block, and used an air gun to get all the water out.. I noticed in the break of the bolt looks like an air bubble inside the bolt if you get what I am saying.. Hopefully I can get this thing out.. I sure don't have the $ to get a new block..

 

just curious, what kinda torque were you tightening these down at when it broke?

 

I was on the final 90' degree pass.

 

but what torque was your torque wrench set at? You were using one I hope?

 

TTY BOLTS - Final pass are degree'd not a torque rating. hence the one time use, where as arp are torque to spec.

 

Dont need a torque wrench on the final pass of Torque To Yield bolts, either eyeball 90 degrees or use an angle meter.

 

That pushrod method sounds like a really good way to do it. I would have never thought of doing it that way.

 

TTY bolts start out with a certain torque.... Then degree after that.

If the OP by chance set his initial torque too high then on his final pass towards the end, which is where he said he was at, the torque would have been far too much. Doubtful, but still, I think this is what SoulTKR was trying to get at... Just trying to clear it up.

To the OP, if it's to the point where you can move the motor and are scared or nervous to try and extract the bolt youself, take it to a machine shop. Let them do it. They'll charge you but if they **** up it's on them not you. Otherwise, using a bolt extractor will be your best bet.