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PAckage?

Old Apr 7, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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Default PAckage?

HEy gUys!
Opinions and suggestions wanted. Want to do a build only changing cam, heads, possibly electric waterpump. WHat is the highest possible power that could be made on stock bottem end with exhaust already done, and not wanting to do a stahl converter?(understands stalhs dont make power)

ALso....To make over 500hp, is your best otpion to go with big cubes? Is it possible with a 346 non-forced induction that is not a full race motor? Whatcha got guys? hit me.....
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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I forgot to subcribe. ok and go!
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:27 PM
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there are some guys on here that make big power on the stock bottom ends. you should check the sticky they have for it. otherwise you could check with texas speed they have a car running 9's on the stock bottom.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 07:15 PM
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I agree with MelScrilla, I'd check out Texas Speed and if you're in the market of getting started with this project I'm sure they will be more than willing to work with you on this project.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by slo_lawncher
HEy gUys!
Opinions and suggestions wanted. Want to do a build only changing cam, heads, possibly electric waterpump. WHat is the highest possible power that could be made on stock bottem end with exhaust already done, and not wanting to do a stahl converter?(understands stalhs dont make power)

ALso....To make over 500hp, is your best otpion to go with big cubes? Is it possible with a 346 non-forced induction that is not a full race motor? Whatcha got guys? hit me.....
Very hard to make 500 on stock cubes can be done tho. And you need a stall. Like you NEED a stall. I wouldnt want the stock H/C without a stall. You may under stand stalls dont make power but they do make your car run a good .6-1. faster with just bolt ons.

Also honestly if you dont know that you need a stall especially when trying to make the numbers you have setup, you really need a lot more research.

And as far as the best option for over 500 Hp. Well everyones opinion will be different. N20 is cheapest. Turbos most DD able with the stock cubes and with having all the power all the time. Blowers make great power and a little more trouble free than turbo's. NA well. NA gives a little more bragging rights has the (opinion) best feel and safest in most cases.

In the wise words of mclovin "pick up a friggin book or something"


Good luck on the ride sir.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 10:05 PM
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Just go LQ4/LQ9 iron block if 500rwhp your goal n/a. Also a stall is a MUST with any decent cammed motor and a 500 rwhp 346 is not easy or cheap on a 346....As a matter of fact I doubt it will happen even on a well planned a4/na setup...

Last edited by SOMbitch; Apr 7, 2009 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 09:52 AM
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I apologize, I should have worded that better. I do understand that a stahl is a very important part of any a4 build, and many have said that just doing that a lone will change your car dramatically for the better. However I was looking at making that a mod done later after motor and possibly suspension was done. Gas mileage? I hoped keeping the stock verter would help with this for a while until it came to be the only thing holding me back.
Am I going about it the wrong way? I understand that a good verter will allow you to utillize the power that you have and come out of the hole screaming, but I didn't want to just sit and spin.
Thanks everybody! keep it coming!
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by slo_lawncher
I apologize, I should have worded that better. I do understand that a stahl is a very important part of any a4 build, and many have said that just doing that a lone will change your car dramatically for the better. However I was looking at making that a mod done later after motor and possibly suspension was done. Gas mileage? I hoped keeping the stock verter would help with this for a while until it came to be the only thing holding me back.
Am I going about it the wrong way? I understand that a good verter will allow you to utillize the power that you have and come out of the hole screaming, but I didn't want to just sit and spin.
Thanks everybody! keep it coming!
The converter is holding you back now And if you cant hook a stall you damn sure cant hook 500 na hp

Research sir. Research.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by slo_lawncher
HEy gUys!
Opinions and suggestions wanted. Want to do a build only changing cam, heads, possibly electric waterpump. WHat is the highest possible power that could be made on stock bottem end with exhaust already done, and not wanting to do a stahl converter?(understands stalhs dont make power)

ALso....To make over 500hp, is your best otpion to go with big cubes? Is it possible with a 346 non-forced induction that is not a full race motor? Whatcha got guys? hit me.....
You can do just 500 (NA of course!) rwhp (on an honest dyno) with a 347 cube completely stock bottom end M6 thru cats and mufflers and still have tons of midrange torque and good drivablility, but you need REALLY, REALLY good heads matched to a (ported) FAST and the right valvetrain. With an A4, rw will be 20-30 or so lower. The cam will be lots smaller than you think.

It ain't cheap, but it's cheaper than a new big shortblock AND the top end you'll need for that anyway.

BTW it's "stall" not "stahl" as in Jerry Stahl. "Stall" refers to the engine rpm at wide open throttle (WOT) with the trans in gear and the rear wheels not turning due to really good brakes or a transbrake.

More info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter


Jon
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by w3s1c0a5t
The converter is holding you back now And if you cant hook a stall you damn sure cant hook 500 na hp

Research sir. Research.
This is research, Thanks for your help.
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Old SStroker
You can do just 500 (NA of course!) rwhp (on an honest dyno) with a 347 cube completely stock bottom end M6 thru cats and mufflers and still have tons of midrange torque and good drivablility, but you need REALLY, REALLY good heads matched to a (ported) FAST and the right valvetrain. With an A4, rw will be 20-30 or so lower. The cam will be lots smaller than you think.

It ain't cheap, but it's cheaper than a new big shortblock AND the top end you'll need for that anyway.

BTW it's "stall" not "stahl" as in Jerry Stahl. "Stall" refers to the engine rpm at wide open throttle (WOT) with the trans in gear and the rear wheels not turning due to really good brakes or a transbrake.

More info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter


Jon
Thanks!!!!!!
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