Swapping heads and cam..With pics!!
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Swapping heads and cam..With pics!! Ok so after about 4 months with some brand new 243's i finally got of my big black butt and decided to do the heads..I bought a cam 1 week a go so i decided to do it while im in there.If my rear blows oh well..
I started taking pics after most of the stuff was removed so here we go..
My Lady helping with the removal of the valve covers..She knows her stuff..She took off the whole lid assembly, changed the rear end to a T/A Girdle. draind/filled gear oil, changed the 1-2, and 2-3 shift solenoid..I had to show her how to do.. it but she did it herself..Good Job
Passenger side rockers..Looks pretty good..Not
Driverside rockers look good too
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/photo0022.jpg
Workin on summthin i just dont know what it was
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/Photo0026.jpg
By Night time i had most of everything off that needed to be except the heads
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/Photo0027.jpg
That GODDAMN Power sterring bolts were my biggest problem..The bottom one can go to hell
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/Photo0033.jpg
Some pics of the intake..looks very lean since after i put on my headers, but i drove around for a week with open headers so maybe that is what its suposed to look like..I dunno
Alright that is it for tonight, I will get on it in tha morning..My feet hurt..This is my first H/C Swap on a LS1, so imtaking it easy
I started taking pics after most of the stuff was removed so here we go..
My Lady helping with the removal of the valve covers..She knows her stuff..She took off the whole lid assembly, changed the rear end to a T/A Girdle. draind/filled gear oil, changed the 1-2, and 2-3 shift solenoid..I had to show her how to do.. it but she did it herself..Good Job
Passenger side rockers..Looks pretty good..Not
Driverside rockers look good too
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/photo0022.jpg
Workin on summthin i just dont know what it was
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/Photo0026.jpg
By Night time i had most of everything off that needed to be except the heads
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/Photo0027.jpg
That GODDAMN Power sterring bolts were my biggest problem..The bottom one can go to hell
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Nebill/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2009_4_10/Photo0033.jpg
Some pics of the intake..looks very lean since after i put on my headers, but i drove around for a week with open headers so maybe that is what its suposed to look like..I dunno
Alright that is it for tonight, I will get on it in tha morning..My feet hurt..This is my first H/C Swap on a LS1, so imtaking it easy
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oh damn the other 3 didnt upload...ok ill take other pics in the morning with my phone then....also when torquing the head bolts down do i use 30 wt oil or the moly compound..i have ARP Head Bolts?
I believe the torque specs will be different if you use SAE 30 compared to the moly. The moly reduces the friction so you don't have to torque the bolts down as much.
ARP might have it their website. If not I am sure there are a lot of people on here that have used ARP bolts. If I am not mistaken the ARP head bolts are not torque to yield like factory bolts are.
Good luck on the swap. It's awesome your girl is helping you out.
ARP might have it their website. If not I am sure there are a lot of people on here that have used ARP bolts. If I am not mistaken the ARP head bolts are not torque to yield like factory bolts are.
Good luck on the swap. It's awesome your girl is helping you out.
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I believe the torque specs will be different if you use SAE 30 compared to the moly. The moly reduces the friction so you don't have to torque the bolts down as much.
ARP might have it their website. If not I am sure there are a lot of people on here that have used ARP bolts. If I am not mistaken the ARP head bolts are not torque to yield like factory bolts are.
Good luck on the swap. It's awesome your girl is helping you out.
ARP might have it their website. If not I am sure there are a lot of people on here that have used ARP bolts. If I am not mistaken the ARP head bolts are not torque to yield like factory bolts are.
Good luck on the swap. It's awesome your girl is helping you out.
I found this on LS1howto.com
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
If you scroll down towards the bottom is has the torque specs for factory bolts and ARP bolts. Hope this helps.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
If you scroll down towards the bottom is has the torque specs for factory bolts and ARP bolts. Hope this helps.
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It has something to do about possibly warping the heads I think....
If one side is torqued down to 70lbs and the other side is all floatin' around, it could happen?
So just go in stages in a criss-cross pattern, like changing a tire.
If one side is torqued down to 70lbs and the other side is all floatin' around, it could happen?
So just go in stages in a criss-cross pattern, like changing a tire.
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Well yeah of course in the torque sequence but which torque specs do i follow the Instructions or LS1Howto.com..
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Sorry, I misunderstood what you were asking.
Use what ever spec came with the bolts. I've used 80lbs with motor oil on ARP bolts, on Ford motors, but same thing...
Use what ever spec came with the bolts. I've used 80lbs with motor oil on ARP bolts, on Ford motors, but same thing...
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I found this on LS1howto.com
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
If you scroll down towards the bottom is has the torque specs for factory bolts and ARP bolts. Hope this helps.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
If you scroll down towards the bottom is has the torque specs for factory bolts and ARP bolts. Hope this helps.
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Ok So i woke up.kinda sore and ****..So my roomates inform me that they are gonna have a party..So I say cool..So me and my girl go out to eat and come back, and see some people bringing in tables..My girl says "are they gonna play jenga, or uno?"..After laughing at the thought of 11 dudes playing uno..I feel asleep and woke up to this
and this
odd ball
wierdo
Anyway..I continued to work on the car and i got the fan shroud off but cam to a dilema
My tranny cooler is mounted to the ac condenser the one infront of the radiator but the tabs that hold it up are being held with the radiator so do i disconnect it from where the tranny lines go in like this
or do i cut the tabs holding it up through the radiator this way
want to make sure before i continue
thanks guys
and this
odd ball
wierdo
Anyway..I continued to work on the car and i got the fan shroud off but cam to a dilema
My tranny cooler is mounted to the ac condenser the one infront of the radiator but the tabs that hold it up are being held with the radiator so do i disconnect it from where the tranny lines go in like this
or do i cut the tabs holding it up through the radiator this way
want to make sure before i continue
thanks guys
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end of day Ok the radiator and ac condenser took a minute since i was working on them myself..And my god, they cram a bunch of **** on top of ****..
Any way after removing both, a couple of smoke breaks i tried removing the driver side head..and i forgot my dumb *** welder welded my collector to the exhaust pipe so the headers could not move oput the way freely..PITA
After cursing, breaking a 3/8 wrench, and asking for death i finnaly got out the spark plugs to at least get enough room to take off the head bolts
At times i had to hold the header and break free the bolt with my other hand at the same time
Then i said **** it and let the header rest on the coolant temp socket..These heads are not going to be reused so why not
It wasnt that hard to break them, i have no air tools,but if you get a good grip on them you can break them fairy easy
The spark plug fiasco took A LONG TIME!!!..The heads about 40 mins
And here is what i found
this was my #3 Piston
What do you guys think
#7 piston
hmmmm??
pushrods from the driverside
Rockers from the driverside
The heads..They look very lean
I found some TR6 Plugs, so putting 2 and 2 2gether, means the previuos owner sprayed..I don't think i could make the car that lean, for a month and a half running headers with no tune
Well im done for 2day..Any comments will be greatley appreciated..Or advice
Thanks Conan for the ac delete help, and Mike and Ryne from CMS.For over the phone help
Any way after removing both, a couple of smoke breaks i tried removing the driver side head..and i forgot my dumb *** welder welded my collector to the exhaust pipe so the headers could not move oput the way freely..PITA
After cursing, breaking a 3/8 wrench, and asking for death i finnaly got out the spark plugs to at least get enough room to take off the head bolts
At times i had to hold the header and break free the bolt with my other hand at the same time
Then i said **** it and let the header rest on the coolant temp socket..These heads are not going to be reused so why not
It wasnt that hard to break them, i have no air tools,but if you get a good grip on them you can break them fairy easy
The spark plug fiasco took A LONG TIME!!!..The heads about 40 mins
And here is what i found
this was my #3 Piston
What do you guys think
#7 piston
hmmmm??
pushrods from the driverside
Rockers from the driverside
The heads..They look very lean
I found some TR6 Plugs, so putting 2 and 2 2gether, means the previuos owner sprayed..I don't think i could make the car that lean, for a month and a half running headers with no tune
Well im done for 2day..Any comments will be greatley appreciated..Or advice
Thanks Conan for the ac delete help, and Mike and Ryne from CMS.For over the phone help
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ok so the passenger side head came off..and the #8 cylinder had alot of coolant in the jacket..but anyway..i noticed that the lifter retanier area had a yellowish greenish composition to it as opposed to the others that had brown..it was on the block, and some were in the bolt hole under the cylinder..dont know what it means
as for the heads..the 8, 6 cylinders were Very lean..ill post those pics in a bit
but here are the lifter retainer walls on the block
as for the heads..the 8, 6 cylinders were Very lean..ill post those pics in a bit
but here are the lifter retainer walls on the block
Oh ****....another H/C car!! Congrats on takling it yourself, sucks for the pics of **** in the engine i'm seeing.
can't wait to hear it fire up!! And that's awesome that your chick's helping...
Congrats again!
can't wait to hear it fire up!! And that's awesome that your chick's helping...
Congrats again!
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I honestly dont know...Im guessing scarring from being to lean??..It looks as if it was melted a bit..Like i said the previous owner sprayed it..Im guessing untuned..But oh well..Il replace it when the crank sticks out of my block..
Ill post pics of the pass heads tomm..Its very lean
Ill post pics of the pass heads tomm..Its very lean
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Ok just to make sure..Drop the starter and insert a screwdriver from to lock it down right?
Could i just wedge some pipe in between the arms on the pully and try to break it that way?
Could i just wedge some pipe in between the arms on the pully and try to break it that way?
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got more progress ok took the cam out
, and put the new one in
I didnt **** with the pick up tube and ****, so i am reusing my same chain and pump..Couldn't really get to it and i didnt want to drop the bolt so i let it be
The passenger side head is what i was saying was lean
and this is everything open
update later
, and put the new one inI didnt **** with the pick up tube and ****, so i am reusing my same chain and pump..Couldn't really get to it and i didnt want to drop the bolt so i let it be
The passenger side head is what i was saying was lean
and this is everything open
update later