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I had this same thing happen to me. Did you use moly lube when you torqued the bolt? Look at my previous posts youll see I finally broke mine off in the crank. I ended up saying screw it and taping larger threads with bigger diameter bolt but shorter. Good luck
Is Moly Lube required with ARP Bolts or is just a "good idea"?
Is Moly Lube required with ARP Bolts or is just a "good idea"?
Required. The torque used during installation is pre-determined to provide a bolt stretch (preload). The amount of stretch is highly dependent on friction. The ARP Moly Lube is used to ensure that there is a known and consistent friction such that the torque value used provides the correct stretch. Without it, you will get the correct torque but the bolt stretch will be greatly diminished.
i used the stock bolt to get my pulley onto the crank but i also taped my pulley on a little with some wood and a hammer to make sure i would get enough threads before pulling it on. then i put the arp bolt in...cant remember if i used lube but i also did not have a wrench that went to 200 ftlbs so i figured im around 200 lbs(at the time i was lol) wo i put the can in second gear and with the ebrake on i hung on the end of that breaker bar until i was satified...no problems after 4 years lol
Just learned this hard lesson myself! Decided drilling it out while it was still in 1 piece would be easier than having to drill it out after snapping it like some other poor suckers.
designed and 3D printed a drilling guide in PETG with removable inserts. My ARP bolt already had a 11mm hole in the head so started with that. Bought some good quality Cobalt drill bits, used loads of lube, drilled nice and slow. Patience is key.
With the 5/8 UNF balancer bolt I went up in 1mm sizes to 14mm; at this stage I was able to back most of the the bolt all the way out with a ratchet. Collapsed the final 10mm of the remainder in with a flat blade screwdriver.
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