1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

like the posting states, went to re use the ARP crank bolt, went in great, spun in, not cross threaded. started to torque down to early with about an inch before it was snug with the pulley and so we started backing it out and it got even harder.

had a 3/4 breaker bar on it with 2 of us and it wouldnt budge for ****.

had it towed to a shop where they tried the air impact it out. nothing.

any suggestions.

thanks

loyolacub68

iTrader: (16)

Maybe try using a torch of some kind to heat it up a bit, then try the air impact again?

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

How did the old bolt look did it have any burrs like it messed up the threads coming out?

1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

looked fine before it went in, threads looked clean/un stretched etc

1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

i should add that the motor is going to come out, i just want to the bolt out so i can pull the cam/pump etc.

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

just find someone with a sawzall or a plasma and cut the bolt head off then

1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

i wish! the bolt head is in the crank pulley by about .5 an inch.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

If you used it to pull the pulley in instead of the correct tool, the threads are finished as is the bolt. Only thing you can do now is drill it out. You can't use the bolt to install the pulley.

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

Why? If you can use a stock bolt to install a pulley, why cant you use an ARP bolt

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

It's the torsional stress put on it when it's twisted while under load. The correct tool does not turn on the threads inside the crank at all while the balancer gets pulled onto the snout of the crank. As stated above if you used the bolt to seat the balancer onto the crank this is your problem you have. The picture below is the correct tool.

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

I have used stock bolts countless times and never had any problems with messing threads up. Not saying it's impossible, but unlikely.

1sick'98WS6

iTrader: (19)

I had this same thing happen to me. Did you use moly lube when you torqued the bolt? Look at my previous posts youll see I finally broke mine off in the crank. I ended up saying screw it and taping larger threads with bigger diameter bolt but shorter. Good luck

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

You can use the bolt if you'd like to. Personally I wont, in fear of needing to start a thread just like this one.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Well, you can install any way you like but you are playing with fire. It is more likely than you think. Full thread engagement prior to installation is required to ensure that threads are not damaged. Pulling it on with a bolt is the wrong way to do this, it concentrates loading on a few threads. LS1howto should be updated as recommending this method is an injustice to anyone who doesn't understand the risk involved.

1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

didnt use it to pull it, used an old stock crank bolt.

can you point me in the direction of where to get one of those?! i need one!!

i didnt use the moly lube. ended up picking up a forged long block up last night so were gonna pull the motor, and torch the bolt first.

if not ill just drill it, pretty much just want it off so i can get my udp and cam parts out lol. thanks for all the info guys. i just love cars.

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

That is available in the "Tools and fabrication" section.

1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

thanks

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

You misunderstood. You pulled it onto the crank with the bolt. Big mistake, but you are not alone unfortunately. If you followed LS1howto, there is the source of your problem.

1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

bump for an update.

got a much bigger breaker bar and managed to get it out pretty easily. downside is the first 3-4 threads are completely thrashed. going to have a friend retap it and see if we can get a stock bolt into torque it down. then my car will at least be drivable for the summer while i build a long block

just to verify the crank bolt thread is 16x2.0?

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

Correct 16mm by 2.0 thread pitch