Oil Pump for 100K Cam Swap?
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I know everyone is going to immediately say to get a new one cause it's cheap insurance, please don't. I'm looking for actual reasons why, not just a bunch of people jumping on the bandwagon. The car is a 2001 so it doesn't have the older pump that's known to fail. I'm trying to do this thing on somewhat of a budget and it's too expensive to start replacing every imaginable part along the way just because it "could" wear out. The car already has an LS2 chain on it from a previous swap, so having to remove the pump to install a new chain is no longer a valid reason ![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
What is the typical lifespan for a pump? I'm not opposed to replacing it, but would like some facts behind my decision.
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What is the typical lifespan for a pump? I'm not opposed to replacing it, but would like some facts behind my decision.
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my 100k stocker had great oil pressure. I did replace it though. i think as long as you are willing to dive into the motor when you see a problem with oil pressure then dont worry about it. some people only have one car and/or dont do the work themselves so it makes sense to go ahead and replace it.
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Very good point. If a shop was doing the work for me then I would definitely have them replace it. It's a PIA to swap so I'd prefer to leave it on and not mess with it right now since it's working.
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I have a stock 01 oil pump sitting around if you want it for cheap. Came out of my car with only 10k on it...its basically brand new
I upgraded to a ported LS6 pump when my MS3 went in for safety reasons with spinning it up to 6900rpms.
I would say it really depends on what cam your going with if you should need a better oil pump or what not.
I upgraded to a ported LS6 pump when my MS3 went in for safety reasons with spinning it up to 6900rpms.
I would say it really depends on what cam your going with if you should need a better oil pump or what not.
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To me honest I believe you should do it since your already diving into it. Obviously it ain't cheap insurance since the part ain't, but with the amount of miles you have it would be a good idea.
-Joel
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You can either:
A) Not change it and hope it lasts a while, if it goes out you could possibly destroy your engine.
or
B) Change it while you already the front of the engine taken apart! You'll easy access at the pump and you won't have to worry about it for possibly the life of the engine.
A) Not change it and hope it lasts a while, if it goes out you could possibly destroy your engine.
or
B) Change it while you already the front of the engine taken apart! You'll easy access at the pump and you won't have to worry about it for possibly the life of the engine.
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I know the smarter thing is to just replace it, and I'll most likely go that route. My only problem with this logic is that it can be used to justify replacing a lot of parts. Why not just pull the heads since the springs are already off and replace the lifters, since the intake is now off why not throw on a 90/90, well now I'm going to need bigger injectors.....next thing you know it's a 3 grand cam swap.
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I know the smarter thing is to just replace it, and I'll most likely go that route. My only problem with this logic is that it can be used to justify replacing a lot of parts. Why not just pull the heads since the springs are already off and replace the lifters, since the intake is now off why not throw on a 90/90, well now I'm going to need bigger injectors.....next thing you know it's a 3 grand cam swap.
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I know the smarter thing is to just replace it, and I'll most likely go that route. My only problem with this logic is that it can be used to justify replacing a lot of parts. Why not just pull the heads since the springs are already off and replace the lifters, since the intake is now off why not throw on a 90/90, well now I'm going to need bigger injectors.....next thing you know it's a 3 grand cam swap.
Here:s an equation i like to quote
Cheap, Fast, Reliable<<<--------pick any two.
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I still don't think it's necessary, but knowing my luck the pump would end up going out a week after the swap. I'm sitting right around $1300 so far, and yes that includes a new pump. I might as well get a pulley while the stocker is coming off.
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actually if my heads ever come off for any reason im putting new lifters in. if i pull the intake i will prolly put new knock sensors in. some areas of these cars can be problematic so sometimes you replace stuff to save headaches down the road. its kind of the nature of the beast.
Here:s an equation i like to quote
Cheap, Fast, Reliable<<<--------pick any two.
Here:s an equation i like to quote
Cheap, Fast, Reliable<<<--------pick any two.
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A cam package with PRC springs is 700. 150 for a ported ls6 oil pump, 50 for the gasket set, 20 for a timing chain, 30 for oil, spring tool 120. Am I missing anything, the spring tool is optional as well.
1070, tune...depends where you go, there are 99 dollar mail order tunes
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I'm facing the same debate, but I have 78k miles on mine and good oil pressure with Mobil 1. I could potentially replace the current good pump and have the new one break cause it was defective or whatever... time to roll the dice?
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Was it just the 98's with oil pump problems, or did the 99's have them too?
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1300?
A cam package with PRC springs is 700. 150 for a ported ls6 oil pump, 50 for the gasket set, 20 for a timing chain, 30 for oil, spring tool 120. Am I missing anything, the spring tool is optional as well.
1070, tune...depends where you go, there are 99 dollar mail order tunes![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
A cam package with PRC springs is 700. 150 for a ported ls6 oil pump, 50 for the gasket set, 20 for a timing chain, 30 for oil, spring tool 120. Am I missing anything, the spring tool is optional as well.
1070, tune...depends where you go, there are 99 dollar mail order tunes
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)