Two problems after my H/C/I Swap
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From: Laurel, Maryland
Two problems after my H/C/I Swap 1. I didn't think this one was going to be THAT big of a problem, but after shreading a brand new belt, I think I need to correct it. The Powerbond 25% Underdrive Crank Pulley I installed sits about quarter of an inch forward of the rest of the pulleys. This causes the belt to sit diagonally and eventually rip the belt to shreads. I thought that I had not tightened the crank bolt all the way, so instead of risking breaking the POS GM bolt off in the crank, I splurged the $26 for the ARP crank bolt. I tightened the bolt down all the way I could with my torque wrench and the pulley did not move any further towards the engine. I'm thinking that because I put a double timing chain on, which required spacers for the oil pump, the pulley is contacting the pump. Here are the solutions I can think of: 1. Remove the Underdrive Pulley and reinstall the stock pulley (I'm not entirely sure if the stock pulley is shorter or not) or 2. Take the underdrive pulley off and grind down the neck of the pulley to make it shorter so it can slide further down the crankshaft.
2. This is kind of major...the car won't start. I have 50-55psi at the rails and I'm obviously getting air. The car is turning over and some cylinders will fire once in awhile, but will not start. I can smell the gas and see smoke coming out of the headers. When I did the swap, I put new NGK55 plugs and the wires are not even a year old. I've also checked the ignition relay, it's fine. I also might want to mention that the car has about an hour of idle time and another 15 minutes of highway drive time, so it has been ran since the swap.
Any ideas or suggestions?
2. This is kind of major...the car won't start. I have 50-55psi at the rails and I'm obviously getting air. The car is turning over and some cylinders will fire once in awhile, but will not start. I can smell the gas and see smoke coming out of the headers. When I did the swap, I put new NGK55 plugs and the wires are not even a year old. I've also checked the ignition relay, it's fine. I also might want to mention that the car has about an hour of idle time and another 15 minutes of highway drive time, so it has been ran since the swap.
Any ideas or suggestions?
I seem to remember a thread about needing to have an ASP pulley machined down when using a double row timing chain. As far as the not running goes; it sounds like you fuel fouled the spark plugs. I would pick up a new set and swap them out. Has the car been tuned at all? If not that will be your next step to prevent this from happening again.
Here are a couple threads I found but it sounds like ASP corrected this issue.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...h-machine.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ing-chain.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...h-machine.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ing-chain.html
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
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From: Laurel, Maryland
Here are a couple threads I found but it sounds like ASP corrected this issue.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...h-machine.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ing-chain.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...h-machine.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ing-chain.html
From what I see in the second thread it appears to be the outer neck only. There was another thread that I did not link that said the engine will not turn over unless the pulley is machined. It sounds to me like you have something else going on. Maybe pull the timing cover and install the pulley so you can see what is really happening when it's tightened down.
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From: Bergen County, NJ
From what I see in the second thread it appears to be the outer neck only. There was another thread that I did not link that said the engine will not turn over unless the pulley is machined. It sounds to me like you have something else going on. Maybe pull the timing cover and install the pulley so you can see what is really happening when it's tightened down.
I also agree that it sounds like your plugs are fuel fouled.
